well with a mechnical clutch fan that is always spinning, when you submerge it, you're basically turning it into a propellor and all hell can break loose, anything from just bending a blade or two, to completely throwing a blade or two, or bending blades so badly that they slice the radiator.
the resistance of the water pulls the fan blades towards the radiator.

cant say for sure, but i would imagine a fully submerged plastic electric fan would either suffer broken/cracked blades or a shorted motor.

 

if you're deep enough to submerge the fan then you've got bigger problems than throwing a blade to worry about

 

i don't know if this helps. but, yesterday i can across this thread and i was having the same probly. 215 on the highway. but, in town it would jump.

so i got......
new radiator
new water pump
new t stat
new hoses
and changed out my clutch fan for a eletric which is set to come on when the jeep is running.

and still was getting to hot.

when putting in the 4wd. i added a transmission cooler. which was the problem the whole time. the heat coming from my trans cooler was keeping my rad hot. i plan on moving it to the underside of the hood with a pusher fan when i add the hood vents.


not sure if this helps any.

 

That was my next plan,running 8.5 in of lift on 35s prolly is warming my trans up a bit lol on stock untouched axles

 

yeah you want to look into buying a B&M transmission cooler off of amazon. I think mine was $55 shipped
pretty sure this is it

 

i wish i would have seen that cooler before getting the cheap cooler i got. i don't think my cooler is up for the job.

 

I have the factory tranny cooler and it does great!

 

Hey guys, might be a long shot as this thread is from 2012, but ill give it a shot. i just bought my first jeep, 1996 Cherokee sport. I've replaced the head gasket, and cleaned the cooling system. but i had just read that someone, saw the temps rise after they had lifted the jeep. so for me to stay in the safe range, i need to run it with the heat on to stay cool. so my question is, if i add a trans cooler, taking the load off of my stock rad, would i see the benefit of separating the cooler and adding an aux cooler.

 

yes

 

to the OP, change your radiator if its corroded. the flowkooler pump only flows more at idle to 1500 rpms. just do a complete flush of your system. replace with OEM products and you will be fine. stock system works just fine for me in Moab 100 degree heat creeping along even with the AW4. For good measure, toss in a tranny cooler to take some of the cooling load off the radiator exchanger. NO need for fancy e-fan setups unless you regularly submerge your engine bay. make sure your Aux fan kicks on when the temps hit 205, when the ac kicks on and when the ac cycles when you run defrost.

 

Oh yeah and 2 electric fans from eBay will not do the trick. I tried this first. I got a new 3 core radiator 3 electric fans and a shroud from dirtbound. Works amazing!!! I have never even hit 200! And I live in the dessert!

 

The Dirtbound kit works great now that they've perfected the shroud design and use better fans. I understand why they used cheaper fans before to keep the cost down, but they started to die out on me one by one for seemingly no reason. The 10" SPAL pullers they use now (which were an upgrade option before; I got mine off ebay) are fantastic and keep things right at 205 for me, even with the AC on in the heat and while putting around on the trails.

 

I doubt your advice will do any good now. This thread is from 2012, and the OP hasn't posted on the board since 2014.