Turbo charged 4.0L
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 850
Likes: 4
From: Arcata California
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by rideordie66
You know you can build a turbo out of a ceiling fan and some cardboard. A few rolls of duct tape and some bubble gum and your pretty set.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 792
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by diego94
they cant actualy be that similar in price???? please show me a small block and a turbo that are comparable... some ppl easyly dnt have engine swap skills and a turbo might be that way to easyer power...
it dosnt realy need to be a specifice turbo you can pull something off a junk yard project or a turbo diesel truck (there will be enough tuning and adapting to do it though) probably for less..... for me the stock engine is plenty of power for most applications and dosnt need that much added to it, is this a trail purpose rig or a weekend warrior?
there is also a stroker kit for our engines, itl cost alot to and there will be some fiddling......how much is this turbo for you and wut all does it come with?
Originally Posted by diego94
in agreement it is still an expensive option, you say uv done a few, i hvnt and my quesstion is would it be all the same to just put it on the end of the stock manifold between the exhaust pipe and use some kind of pvc (mabey something similar more heat resistant) to plumb the air down there? and dont blowoffs usualy come with a good kit (typing hvnt looked at the links yet didnt check)
Originally Posted by diego94
ya kit looks pretty set, not stuffing but replacing, rplacin a bunch of stuff and then adding a bunch more
Originally Posted by diego94
exactly pretty set to me lol, never said i knew anything bout turbos lol i offered a thought then asked a question and made a redneck sugestion lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 0
From: S.Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OP. Wow. Yes turbos are nice...but knowledge is real power. Read up on the inner workings of a turbo. Know it inside and out.
at 8-10lbs of boost your looking at roughly 90 horeses..give or take and depending on how well the jeep motor takes to the tune
What no one has mentioned yet; is when you get all the power,boost and fuel man. stuff dialed in and she's runnin a good 11.5- 12.5 a/f ratio;.... all that power has got to be put to the ground.
So additionally you have to make sure ur tranny and axles etc can handle that power. then there brakes. then there unibody stiffening. aka subframe connectors,x-braceing,strut tower bracing.
All i'm saying is...Yes. Its possible to do and do right. But dont cheap out with ebay china sh!te on the mechanical end. IE..turbos,bov etc. Buy reliable parts. Reasearch ur azz off and ask questions to those who know.
The good you got goin for you is that our motors have cast iron heads. which is ideal for boost. the bad news is that our internals are NOT forged. So your intercooled boost is restrictive. Then theres milage on your motor. the more milage the less boost i would run,unless your rebuild too. then its cost prohibitive. with high millage, i wouldn't go above 6-8psi.
So if it were me...and i love superchargers and turbos. but with our applications...i would just stroke the 4.0 and stay NA, or do a carbed v-8 swap or an LS.
Good luck to you.
.
at 8-10lbs of boost your looking at roughly 90 horeses..give or take and depending on how well the jeep motor takes to the tune
What no one has mentioned yet; is when you get all the power,boost and fuel man. stuff dialed in and she's runnin a good 11.5- 12.5 a/f ratio;.... all that power has got to be put to the ground.
So additionally you have to make sure ur tranny and axles etc can handle that power. then there brakes. then there unibody stiffening. aka subframe connectors,x-braceing,strut tower bracing.
All i'm saying is...Yes. Its possible to do and do right. But dont cheap out with ebay china sh!te on the mechanical end. IE..turbos,bov etc. Buy reliable parts. Reasearch ur azz off and ask questions to those who know.
The good you got goin for you is that our motors have cast iron heads. which is ideal for boost. the bad news is that our internals are NOT forged. So your intercooled boost is restrictive. Then theres milage on your motor. the more milage the less boost i would run,unless your rebuild too. then its cost prohibitive. with high millage, i wouldn't go above 6-8psi.
So if it were me...and i love superchargers and turbos. but with our applications...i would just stroke the 4.0 and stay NA, or do a carbed v-8 swap or an LS.
Good luck to you.
.
Last edited by OEJ; Oct 7, 2012 at 09:05 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All I am saying man is that all you posted was negative comments. Saying the parts are junk, acting like its impossible to do if you aren't a rocket scientist. The OP didn't say he isn't willing to do a bunch of research. He didn't even say he has never built a turbo'd rig before. You just assumed he knew NOTHING about the subject. You haven't offered up any true knowledge or advice on the question the OP asked. I think OEJ has offered some of the best advice so far.
That all being said, I did have an additional question for OEJ and the OP.
OP, you haven't posted a link to this supposed turbo for the jeep 4.0... The only one I know of is from boostwerks and it's ridiculously expensive all though it does supply everything you should need.
OEJ, you said the cast head is best for boosting. I would like you to elaborate on that. The 4.0 is known to already have intake temperature problems that can cause predetonation after the simplest mod like stroking the block and increasing the compression ratio. This is because a cast iron head doesn't dissipate as much heat as an aluminum head and our combustion chambers arent as efficient as a newer aluminum head. If you ran an aluminum hescro head you could easily increase the compression ratio and amount of boost you could push.
That all being said, I did have an additional question for OEJ and the OP.
OP, you haven't posted a link to this supposed turbo for the jeep 4.0... The only one I know of is from boostwerks and it's ridiculously expensive all though it does supply everything you should need.
OEJ, you said the cast head is best for boosting. I would like you to elaborate on that. The 4.0 is known to already have intake temperature problems that can cause predetonation after the simplest mod like stroking the block and increasing the compression ratio. This is because a cast iron head doesn't dissipate as much heat as an aluminum head and our combustion chambers arent as efficient as a newer aluminum head. If you ran an aluminum hescro head you could easily increase the compression ratio and amount of boost you could push.
Caracticus Potts The Mod
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,298
Likes: 9
From: Hainsville, NJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
OP, not to burst your bubble, because everyone has a right to ponder and tinker with their jeep and make it better( or seem better) You would be better off spending your hard earned money on brake and suspension mods, while all the time enjoying the fun you will have driving it. BECAUSE unless you have a lot of extra cash flow, knowledge and time....your jeep will become a lawn ornament.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 0
From: S.Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All I am saying man is that all you posted was negative comments. Saying the parts are junk, acting like its impossible to do if you aren't a rocket scientist. The OP didn't say he isn't willing to do a bunch of research. He didn't even say he has never built a turbo'd rig before. You just assumed he knew NOTHING about the subject. You haven't offered up any true knowledge or advice on the question the OP asked. I think OEJ has offered some of the best advice so far.
That all being said, I did have an additional question for OEJ and the OP.
OP, you haven't posted a link to this supposed turbo for the jeep 4.0... The only one I know of is from boostwerks and it's ridiculously expensive all though it does supply everything you should need.
OEJ, you said the cast head is best for boosting. I would like you to elaborate on that. The 4.0 is known to already have intake temperature problems that can cause predetonation after the simplest mod like stroking the block and increasing the compression ratio. This is because a cast iron head doesn't dissipate as much heat as an aluminum head and our combustion chambers arent as efficient as a newer aluminum head. If you ran an aluminum hescro head you could easily increase the compression ratio and amount of boost you could push.
That all being said, I did have an additional question for OEJ and the OP.
OP, you haven't posted a link to this supposed turbo for the jeep 4.0... The only one I know of is from boostwerks and it's ridiculously expensive all though it does supply everything you should need.
OEJ, you said the cast head is best for boosting. I would like you to elaborate on that. The 4.0 is known to already have intake temperature problems that can cause predetonation after the simplest mod like stroking the block and increasing the compression ratio. This is because a cast iron head doesn't dissipate as much heat as an aluminum head and our combustion chambers arent as efficient as a newer aluminum head. If you ran an aluminum hescro head you could easily increase the compression ratio and amount of boost you could push.
comp ratios should be low,not higher for any type of boost application. optimum would be 8.5:1 - 9.5:1 anything more runs a greater risk of Detonation. the higher the comp the less boost u should run.
if using higher than stated comp more timing will need to be pulled out. so the motor if being built for boost should be built with lower comp. and have forged internals. if comp is low like 9.5:1 and the internals are not forged; close attention should be given to how much boost is run weather intercooled or not.
10.5:1 is about the max u should use for boost. and i mean max. I wouldn't boost a motor that had over 9.5:1. cast crank and hyperetetic pistons should not be used for more than 8-10lbs of boost intercolled and 4-6lbs NON intercooled. street legal boostis i think a maxpsi of 13 or 14lbs.
if goin over 13-14lbs than the comp shoul be yet lower. then u get into drag cars where comp and boost are both high, but that is a whole other world.
Last edited by OEJ; Oct 7, 2012 at 12:48 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
I am not saying it's impossible, but what I am saying is MOST people do not research before they get into this, they start buying stuff and do an install then they either give up sell the vehicle or they spend tons of money to get it finished, I have seen it MANY times and I am sure I will see it many more.
besides that I think it's best to keep your engine SIMPLE on the trail, but that's just me. the more mods a guy does the harder it will be to get the Jeep home WHEN, not if, it breaks down on the trail.
I am not saying don't do it, I am just saying make sure you understand what you are getting yourself into. Make sure that you realize this is not just a bolt it up and roll sort of thing. You CAN do it, for sure
But if it is going to be cheap you are going to spend lots of time planning, and have the knowledge to do it right
other than that you are going to bolt it up and have issues. and have to spend a good deal of money making it right. Simple as that
besides that I think it's best to keep your engine SIMPLE on the trail, but that's just me. the more mods a guy does the harder it will be to get the Jeep home WHEN, not if, it breaks down on the trail.
I am not saying don't do it, I am just saying make sure you understand what you are getting yourself into. Make sure that you realize this is not just a bolt it up and roll sort of thing. You CAN do it, for sure
But if it is going to be cheap you are going to spend lots of time planning, and have the knowledge to do it right
other than that you are going to bolt it up and have issues. and have to spend a good deal of money making it right. Simple as that
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: thompson,okanogan,shushwap area in central British columbian
Year: 91 laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO 4l
as is been said b4 im in this conversation to learn as well,,, im still wondering about how comparable the full engine swap is to this tubo, can some1 post another thread to give an example?
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OOps. my bad. I completely mis spoke. I meant to say that alum heads would be ideal. not iron. Wasn't awake yet...lol sometimes i dont proff read my posts. higher compratios shouldused for NA power not boost.
comp ratios should be low,not higher for any type of boost application. optimum would be 8.5:1 - 9.5:1 anything more runs a greater risk of Detonation. the higher the comp the less boost u should run.
if using higher than stated comp more timing will need to be pulled out. so the motor if being built for boost should be built with lower comp. and have forged internals. if comp is low like 9.5:1 and the internals are not forged; close attention should be given to how much boost is run weather intercooled or not.
10.5:1 is about the max u should use for boost. and i mean max. I wouldn't boost a motor that had over 9.5:1. cast crank and hyperetetic pistons should not be used for more than 8-10lbs of boost intercolled and 4-6lbs NON intercooled. street legal boostis i think a maxpsi of 13 or 14lbs.
if goin over 13-14lbs than the comp shoul be yet lower. then u get into drag cars where comp and boost are both high, but that is a whole other world.
comp ratios should be low,not higher for any type of boost application. optimum would be 8.5:1 - 9.5:1 anything more runs a greater risk of Detonation. the higher the comp the less boost u should run.
if using higher than stated comp more timing will need to be pulled out. so the motor if being built for boost should be built with lower comp. and have forged internals. if comp is low like 9.5:1 and the internals are not forged; close attention should be given to how much boost is run weather intercooled or not.
10.5:1 is about the max u should use for boost. and i mean max. I wouldn't boost a motor that had over 9.5:1. cast crank and hyperetetic pistons should not be used for more than 8-10lbs of boost intercolled and 4-6lbs NON intercooled. street legal boostis i think a maxpsi of 13 or 14lbs.
if goin over 13-14lbs than the comp shoul be yet lower. then u get into drag cars where comp and boost are both high, but that is a whole other world.
I am not saying it's impossible, but what I am saying is MOST people do not research before they get into this, they start buying stuff and do an install then they either give up sell the vehicle or they spend tons of money to get it finished, I have seen it MANY times and I am sure I will see it many more.
besides that I think it's best to keep your engine SIMPLE on the trail, but that's just me. the more mods a guy does the harder it will be to get the Jeep home WHEN, not if, it breaks down on the trail.
I am not saying don't do it, I am just saying make sure you understand what you are getting yourself into. Make sure that you realize this is not just a bolt it up and roll sort of thing. You CAN do it, for sure
But if it is going to be cheap you are going to spend lots of time planning, and have the knowledge to do it right
other than that you are going to bolt it up and have issues. and have to spend a good deal of money making it right. Simple as that
besides that I think it's best to keep your engine SIMPLE on the trail, but that's just me. the more mods a guy does the harder it will be to get the Jeep home WHEN, not if, it breaks down on the trail.
I am not saying don't do it, I am just saying make sure you understand what you are getting yourself into. Make sure that you realize this is not just a bolt it up and roll sort of thing. You CAN do it, for sure
But if it is going to be cheap you are going to spend lots of time planning, and have the knowledge to do it right
other than that you are going to bolt it up and have issues. and have to spend a good deal of money making it right. Simple as that
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
4.0. Stroked out to 4.6+. Did you read the thread? I don't get why everyone deals with static compression ratio. Isn't it completely null and void depending on which cam you run? Giving you your true compression ratio (dynamic compression ratio)
Last edited by Lead Foot; Oct 7, 2012 at 02:30 PM.