Transfer Case Drop vs Pinion Shims
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
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From: South Dakota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have a 99 XJ with a 3.5 Rubicon Express lift. There is some vibration and want to know which would be better a transfer case drop or using pinion shims.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 534
Likes: 2
From: Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I-6
If you have an auto AW4, you can stick the crossmember out of a 5 speed manual in it, and lower the TC, 3/4" w/o losing any ground clearance. Get ahold of XJWONDERS, in the selling section. He has em !!! I'd try this first ?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 352
Likes: 6
From: Pampa, Texas
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 liter
With my 3.5" lift, I noticed about a 1/4" of new metal extending out of the transfer case tailhousing as seen on the slip yoke. I dropped my cross member by 1" with 2 pieces of 1" square tubing drilled on the same spacing as the crossmember for each side. Removed the studs, purchased longer bolts and put it all back together. The slip yoke was back at the original place and I have no drive line vibrations. I didn't do anything with pinion angle shims.
Either plan should be considered a temporary fix with best plan being a SYE.
All that being said, a 3.5" lift normally is actually more like 4-41/2" initially and settles back in after a while in the 3-31/2" lift. If that holds true, a temporary fix maybe adequate to fix a short term problem and can be removed after the suspension settles.
Happy Jeepin'
TexasTaz38
Either plan should be considered a temporary fix with best plan being a SYE.
All that being said, a 3.5" lift normally is actually more like 4-41/2" initially and settles back in after a while in the 3-31/2" lift. If that holds true, a temporary fix maybe adequate to fix a short term problem and can be removed after the suspension settles.
Happy Jeepin'
TexasTaz38
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 47
Likes: 3
From: NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 i6
Rusty's has a 1" drop more durable Trail Tested Crossmember: Part # RA-CM2000-XJ
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-sk...rop-28812.html
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-sk...rop-28812.html
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Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 12
From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
A SYE is not to be used in conjunction with a transfer case drop.. A SYE/ CV-driveshaft along with proper axle shims for rear axle angle is the way to go. Trans drop is a band-aid for ones not running a SYE.
A transmission drop also adds extra strain on motor mounts.
A transmission drop also adds extra strain on motor mounts.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
When I first put my lift on I had vibes as well. Because there are so many variables as to how much TC drop is needed to cure the vibes I decided to do a variable drop. I went down to Ace and bought longer bolts for the cross member and a box of washers. I stacked the washers for a 3/4" drop and drove it. Still had vibes but considerably less. Added more washers for 1" drop and vibes be gone. Ended up wrapping the washer stacks with black vinyl tape to aid in installation and improve aesthetics. Like Dumajones said, " Trans drop is a band-aid for ones not running a SYE. " Plenty of info out there as to why that is true. I was messing around with the lift height so my TC was temporary. Eventually I installed a proper SYE with shims.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 822
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From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
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From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
I would guess he’s worried about shearing the pin on the leafs. If the shims get loose and pop out, the pins will break. But really, all you need is to put some shims in, determine that your vibes are gone, then throw a few small welds around the shims. A lot less work than redoing spring perches


