Thanks for great information, now would using a doubler require twin or triple stick? This is an awesome setup to me, in super excited about this!!

So let me get it straight, front half if my 231 then a doubler and the back half of the 300? Is there any supports needed for this and does it fit in the cutout where the existing case sits

 

Nice. Is that hard to do?

 

231/231 would be 2 sticks. 231/D300 would be 1 stick for the front 231 and 2 sticks for your rear D300.

You use the front half of the front case. Bolt the doubler adapter to the back of that. Then the doubler adapter has holes in it like the back of the transmission. The COMPLETE rear case bolts to the doubler adapter just like it would bolt to the transmission. Take a look at the link I posted and it shows you what the doubler adapter looks like.

To run a doubler you will need to do a couple things. cut off the front output section off the crawl box (front half case). Weld the supplied aluminum block of plate to the case. (some have honestly even JB welded as it just needs to we sealed.) I suggest welding if you can. You will need to shorten the rear driveline and lengthen the front driveline. And you really should support the rear case with some sort of crossmember.

We have been wanting to come out with a rear crossmember setup for a while, but there hasnt been a high demand.

 

Here you go, this is a quick write up with a 231/D300. It is essentially the same process with a 231/231.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...*******es.html

 

The link doesn't work.

 

thats weird. Check out post #6 here. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/h...231-a-1159217/

 

Do you think there would be room for your setup with an Iron Rock Offroad crossmember?

 

Yep. There shouldn't be any clearance issues at all.

 

Ok if I decide to do this the 231/300 I would triple sticks, other wise if I just decided to run a 300 could I run twin sticks?

 

Yes but flipping a 300 requires relocating the vent as well and the couple of people I know running them say they have oiling issues. Not a big deal offroad but could be if you drive it on the road for long periods. 300 is pretty easy to twin stick but some, like the 20 and some 205s, 203s are chain drive and not able to be twin sticked despite an earlier post, can be twin sticked but only give you 2 wheel low and not front wheel drive.

 

In other words for ultimate span the 231/300 is the way to go without spending thousands in a atlas.

 

380+ for a flip kit, 575 for gears, 290 for shifters, plus the cost of the doubler and a D300. It'll add up fast and still isn't as strong as an Atlas but you would get 2 low ranges. Also keep in mind the D300 hasn't been used since the mid 80s so plan on a complete rebuild.

 

So even if I run a 231/300 I still have to the flip kit? I was thinking that was only if you run a 300. I wish there were videos and parts list so one knows exactly what he getting himself into, you have a pretty list above, that's almost 2G's in parts alone, a little outta my range for now.

 

If you did a dana 300 only swap you can get a lomax 4 to 1 gear set for it http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ Or for about 2 grand you can get a magnum box http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Magnum%20Box.htm it bolts right between your trans and stock np231 and has its own shifter you buy from them.

 

I would look at a D20 before a 300. Not that a 300 is bad, but flipping it is expensive. You can do a budget flip but they seem to always leak. The 20 is a good case and is drivers drop already. Easy to mod for twin stick, but 2.46 instead of the 231's 2.72.
I run a D20, but behind a 4:1 Klune V-drive. So its triple sticked.