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Top ten XJ mods
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm running a C/8.25 with 1541H alloy shafts and that makes it stronger than a stock D/44 so why do I need a D/44. Why 4.56 gear? What do you mean by a full size spare? I run 225x75 r15 instead of a 35x12.5 r15 for my spare because it takes up less room inside, and I don't want to run with my spare on the roof. Why do you have chains along with straps as recovery gear? ( Chains are a no-no! )
I don't drive in rivers so why would I need a snorkel? Cold air kits on Cherokees don't work all that well, so why would you need one for wheeling?
I don't drive in rivers so why would I need a snorkel? Cold air kits on Cherokees don't work all that well, so why would you need one for wheeling?
Last edited by Rock Toy; Aug 12, 2011 at 02:36 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Originally Posted by Rock Toy
I'm running a C/8.25 with 1541H alloy shafts and that makes it stronger than a stock D/44 so why do I need a D/44. Why 4.56 gear? What do you mean by a full size spare? I run 225x75 r15 instead of a 35x12.5 r15 for my spare because it takes up less room inside, and I don't what to run with my spare on the roof. Why do you have chains along with straps as recovery gear? ( Chains are a no-no! )
I don't drive in rivers so why would I need a snorkel? Cold air kits on Cherokees don't work all that well, so why would you need one for wheeling?
I don't drive in rivers so why would I need a snorkel? Cold air kits on Cherokees don't work all that well, so why would you need one for wheeling?
You absolutely NEED a full size spare if you have tires larger than 235s or if you have a limited slip diff/lockers. It is very important to have a full size spare so you are able to get your Jeep home in the event of a blowout. The spare you have now will not get you very far and is not safe at all. Just take my word for it and get yourself the right spare. Look for a swingout rear bumper tire carrier if you don't want to put it on your roof.
Now on to the topic of snorkels...
I don't like taking my jeep through deep water because it messes things up (both electrical and mechanical) and my jeep is also my daily driver.
I am getting a snorkel because I want to draw more cold air than stock, not to mention it looks B.A. lol
Cold air intakes do work on XJs when done correctly. My future intake setup will be a heatwrapped intake manifold, Neon injectors, Snorkel, a bored throttle body, and a heat shield in between the exhaust manifold and intake manifold. This will definitely increase fuel efficency, horsepower, and torque.
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cold air intakes do work on XJs when done correctly. My future intake setup will be a heatwrapped intake manifold, Neon injectors, Snorkel, a bored throttle body, and a heat shield in between the exhaust manifold and intake manifold. This will definitely increase fuel efficency, horsepower, and torque.
You got any plans on an intake heat shield? My Miata has a water jacket that goes through the TB to keep it cooled of a bit - can't imagine an efficient means of cooling off that big Cherokee casting sitting right on top of the header. Maybe a shield and custom thru-the-hood snorkel velocity stack into the manifold? Short, quick and above the waterline...
Last edited by Bstrom650; Aug 12, 2011 at 02:06 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lots of questions there lol. Well, the 4.56 gear will help you tons with your 35s. The 4.56 will give you more low end power/torque which is what you need while wheeling.
You absolutely NEED a full size spare if you have tires larger than 235s or if you have a limited slip diff/lockers. It is very important to have a full size spare so you are able to get your Jeep home in the event of a blowout. The spare you have now will not get you very far and is not safe at all. Just take my word for it and get yourself the right spare. Look for a swingout rear bumper tire carrier if you don't want to put it on your roof.
Now on to the topic of snorkels...
I don't like taking my jeep through deep water because it messes things up (both electrical and mechanical) and my jeep is also my daily driver.
I am getting a snorkel because I want to draw more cold air than stock, not to mention it looks B.A. lol
Cold air intakes do work on XJs when done correctly. My future intake setup will be a heatwrapped intake manifold, Neon injectors, Snorkel, a bored throttle body, and a heat shield in between the exhaust manifold and intake manifold. This will definitely increase fuel efficency, horsepower, and torque.
You absolutely NEED a full size spare if you have tires larger than 235s or if you have a limited slip diff/lockers. It is very important to have a full size spare so you are able to get your Jeep home in the event of a blowout. The spare you have now will not get you very far and is not safe at all. Just take my word for it and get yourself the right spare. Look for a swingout rear bumper tire carrier if you don't want to put it on your roof.
Now on to the topic of snorkels...
I don't like taking my jeep through deep water because it messes things up (both electrical and mechanical) and my jeep is also my daily driver.
I am getting a snorkel because I want to draw more cold air than stock, not to mention it looks B.A. lol
Cold air intakes do work on XJs when done correctly. My future intake setup will be a heatwrapped intake manifold, Neon injectors, Snorkel, a bored throttle body, and a heat shield in between the exhaust manifold and intake manifold. This will definitely increase fuel efficency, horsepower, and torque.
You don't need a full sized spare. If I have a flat that my patch kit will not fix on the rear axle, I'll have to swap a front tire to the rear and put my smaller tire in the front. I've done this before, and it works just fine. The setup I have will get me as far as I have to go and it is perfectly safe. As for as the swing out rear bumper tire carrier I don't want the extra weight hanging off the rear when I'm trying to climb something steep. Plus, I don't want to pay the kind of money people are asking for a strong bumper with a swing out tire carrier.
As for snorkels, I read the basic question which was what are the 10 modifications most needed for wheeling. Snorkels are ok but they aren't needed if you don't do water crossings. Also I thought this was 10 things needed for wheeling not about what looked good. The stock Cherokee intake is pretty good in that it pulls cold air from outside the engine bay behind the grill
Last edited by Rock Toy; Aug 12, 2011 at 04:57 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 1
From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1- lift/tires
2- skids
3- recovery points/gear
4- tools, spare parts, & fire extinguisher
5- axles
6- lockers
7- gears
8- diff guards
9-1 ton steering
10- long arms
2- skids
3- recovery points/gear
4- tools, spare parts, & fire extinguisher
5- axles
6- lockers
7- gears
8- diff guards
9-1 ton steering
10- long arms
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Yeah, I wanted to add the bored throttle body and 4-point injector upgrade as an important mod for DD's and offroaders. It's the best hunnerd bucks you will ever spend to add a little hp and torque.
You got any plans on an intake heat shield? My Miata has a water jacket that goes through the TB to keep it cooled of a bit - can't imagine an efficient means of cooling off that big Cherokee casting sitting right on top of the header. Maybe a shield and custom thru-the-hood snorkel velocity stack into the manifold? Short, quick and above the waterline...
You got any plans on an intake heat shield? My Miata has a water jacket that goes through the TB to keep it cooled of a bit - can't imagine an efficient means of cooling off that big Cherokee casting sitting right on top of the header. Maybe a shield and custom thru-the-hood snorkel velocity stack into the manifold? Short, quick and above the waterline...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O. I6
Updated:
1) Lift kit (Suspension) minimum 3 in.
2) AT or Mud/Terrain tires (31in. min.) with full size spare
3) Stronger aftermarket rear axle with appropriate gearing for whatever size tires you running (I love my Dana 44 with 4.56 gears; running 31's)
4) Front and Rear lockers
5) Sway Bar quick disconnect or completely remove sway bar
6) Tow hooks, lift points, and recovery gear (winch, hi-lift, shovel, axe, and tow straps or chains)
7) Aftermarket skid plates and rock sliders (Min. 1/8-1/4 in. thickness for skids) and armor (roll cage if your doing serious wheeling)
8) Snorkel or other cold/dry air intake (not a bad idea to replace cat/exhaust with higher flow version) Snorkel is only necessary if you plan on going through water deeper than the bottom of your stock air intake BUT a snorkel is a good idea because it gives you cleaner cooler air which is better for your engine. A cold air intake is a good idea because Cherokee's have been known to over heat because the engine compartment is pretty cramped BUT not all Cherokee's are prone to usual overheating so it's a need based mod.
9) Additional lighting (360 degree for reversing off obstacles and seeing the best line)
10) The last few are not performance mods but stuff we all seem to agree should be in your Jeep before you go off-road: Well-stocked toolbox and work light, good supply of spare parts (anybody got a list of parts we should put in it?) CB radio, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, roof rack for hauling gear (water, fuel, e.t.c.) if extra space is needed.
1) Lift kit (Suspension) minimum 3 in.
2) AT or Mud/Terrain tires (31in. min.) with full size spare
3) Stronger aftermarket rear axle with appropriate gearing for whatever size tires you running (I love my Dana 44 with 4.56 gears; running 31's)
4) Front and Rear lockers
5) Sway Bar quick disconnect or completely remove sway bar
6) Tow hooks, lift points, and recovery gear (winch, hi-lift, shovel, axe, and tow straps or chains)
7) Aftermarket skid plates and rock sliders (Min. 1/8-1/4 in. thickness for skids) and armor (roll cage if your doing serious wheeling)
8) Snorkel or other cold/dry air intake (not a bad idea to replace cat/exhaust with higher flow version) Snorkel is only necessary if you plan on going through water deeper than the bottom of your stock air intake BUT a snorkel is a good idea because it gives you cleaner cooler air which is better for your engine. A cold air intake is a good idea because Cherokee's have been known to over heat because the engine compartment is pretty cramped BUT not all Cherokee's are prone to usual overheating so it's a need based mod.
9) Additional lighting (360 degree for reversing off obstacles and seeing the best line)
10) The last few are not performance mods but stuff we all seem to agree should be in your Jeep before you go off-road: Well-stocked toolbox and work light, good supply of spare parts (anybody got a list of parts we should put in it?) CB radio, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, roof rack for hauling gear (water, fuel, e.t.c.) if extra space is needed.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O. I6
Adding air compressor to number 10:
1) Lift kit (Suspension) minimum 3 in.
2) AT or Mud/Terrain tires (31in. min.) with full size spare
3) Stronger aftermarket rear axle with appropriate gearing for whatever size tires you running (I love my Dana 44 with 4.56 gears; running 31's)
4) Front and Rear lockers
5) Sway Bar quick disconnect or completely remove sway bar
6) Tow hooks, lift points, and recovery gear (winch, hi-lift, shovel, axe, and tow straps or chains)
7) Aftermarket skid plates and rock sliders (Min. 1/8-1/4 in. thickness for skids) and armor (roll cage if your doing serious wheeling)
8) Snorkel or other cold/dry air intake (not a bad idea to replace cat/exhaust with higher flow version) Snorkel is only necessary if you plan on going through water deeper than the bottom of your stock air intake BUT a snorkel is a good idea because it gives you cleaner cooler air which is better for your engine. A cold air intake is a good idea because Cherokee's have been known to over heat because the engine compartment is pretty cramped BUT not all Cherokee's are prone to usual overheating so it's a need based mod.
9) Additional lighting (360 degree for reversing off obstacles and seeing the best line)
10) The last few are not performance mods but stuff we all seem to agree should be in your Jeep before you go off-road: Well-stocked toolbox and work light, good supply of spare parts (anybody got a list of parts we should put in it?) CB radio, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, air compressor/or other compressed air system (an actual compressor is best but compressed air tanks will work) for filling tires after airing down at a trailhead, roof rack for hauling gear (water, fuel, e.t.c.) if extra space is needed.
1) Lift kit (Suspension) minimum 3 in.
2) AT or Mud/Terrain tires (31in. min.) with full size spare
3) Stronger aftermarket rear axle with appropriate gearing for whatever size tires you running (I love my Dana 44 with 4.56 gears; running 31's)
4) Front and Rear lockers
5) Sway Bar quick disconnect or completely remove sway bar
6) Tow hooks, lift points, and recovery gear (winch, hi-lift, shovel, axe, and tow straps or chains)
7) Aftermarket skid plates and rock sliders (Min. 1/8-1/4 in. thickness for skids) and armor (roll cage if your doing serious wheeling)
8) Snorkel or other cold/dry air intake (not a bad idea to replace cat/exhaust with higher flow version) Snorkel is only necessary if you plan on going through water deeper than the bottom of your stock air intake BUT a snorkel is a good idea because it gives you cleaner cooler air which is better for your engine. A cold air intake is a good idea because Cherokee's have been known to over heat because the engine compartment is pretty cramped BUT not all Cherokee's are prone to usual overheating so it's a need based mod.
9) Additional lighting (360 degree for reversing off obstacles and seeing the best line)
10) The last few are not performance mods but stuff we all seem to agree should be in your Jeep before you go off-road: Well-stocked toolbox and work light, good supply of spare parts (anybody got a list of parts we should put in it?) CB radio, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, air compressor/or other compressed air system (an actual compressor is best but compressed air tanks will work) for filling tires after airing down at a trailhead, roof rack for hauling gear (water, fuel, e.t.c.) if extra space is needed.
CF Veteran




Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 446
From: Michigan
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
# 1 mod- proper maintenance - proactive repairs of noisy/worn components that are often dismissed till later
# 2 mod- Tires/lift kit - I would base my lift amount against my desired tire size. Full sized spare included
# 3 mod- Gears/1-locker at a minimum - select your gearing against your tire size and also if you want aggressive or economical power to the wheels. A locker in at least one of the axles is a good idea.
# 4 mod- Armor - Solid mounting bumpers that tie into your frame. Fronts typically 10-14+ bolts in total and rear bumpers should tie into your frame/hitch mounting points as well. Skid plates a bonus- id say gas tank above all first
# 5 mod- Self Recovery - Winch, kinetic strap, flat strap, tree saver, couple d-rings (clevis), leather gloves, ****** block for winch, expendable ratchet straps
# 6 mod- Coms - CB radio is the popular but becoming less popular Coms device. Some type of VHF radio -mobile/stationary in your jeep is becoming a bit more commonplace
# 7 mod- Tools - a simplified tool kit and a bottle jack are space saving but good at a minimum as a base level for those simple issues/repairs
# 8 mod- Safety - first aid kit, gloves, flashlight,
# 9 mod- External lighting - IF you wind up travelling by night, clearly seeing what your getting yourself into/through can keep you from getting into a bad situation
#10 mod- Spare's - depending on your storage space and craftiness for organization - spare parts - ujoints, TRE, fuses, some wire and e-tape, extra Fuel if you can haul it.
# 2 mod- Tires/lift kit - I would base my lift amount against my desired tire size. Full sized spare included
# 3 mod- Gears/1-locker at a minimum - select your gearing against your tire size and also if you want aggressive or economical power to the wheels. A locker in at least one of the axles is a good idea.
# 4 mod- Armor - Solid mounting bumpers that tie into your frame. Fronts typically 10-14+ bolts in total and rear bumpers should tie into your frame/hitch mounting points as well. Skid plates a bonus- id say gas tank above all first
# 5 mod- Self Recovery - Winch, kinetic strap, flat strap, tree saver, couple d-rings (clevis), leather gloves, ****** block for winch, expendable ratchet straps
# 6 mod- Coms - CB radio is the popular but becoming less popular Coms device. Some type of VHF radio -mobile/stationary in your jeep is becoming a bit more commonplace
# 7 mod- Tools - a simplified tool kit and a bottle jack are space saving but good at a minimum as a base level for those simple issues/repairs
# 8 mod- Safety - first aid kit, gloves, flashlight,
# 9 mod- External lighting - IF you wind up travelling by night, clearly seeing what your getting yourself into/through can keep you from getting into a bad situation
#10 mod- Spare's - depending on your storage space and craftiness for organization - spare parts - ujoints, TRE, fuses, some wire and e-tape, extra Fuel if you can haul it.
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