? for those running Control Arm Drop Brackets...
#1
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Year: 1999
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? for those running Control Arm Drop Brackets...
Hey guys...I've got a weird issue maybe someone can shed some light on for me. I installed RE Control Arm Drop Brackets last fall and while the ride quality is much improved, I pulled them off temporarily due to an issue I have had with them "Clunking." I traced the clunk to my drivers side upper CA...it is hitting the pumpkin on the axle, It's a HP D30. I have the required 4" lift for the RE Brackets. I'm not running any adjustable CA's either. Has anyone else run into this issue before? I guess I have never seen anyone else install these with a HP D30.
Any ideas?
My thoughts are maybe adding some hockey puck bumpstops and possibly an additional stock coil isolator for a hair more lift? It's not hitting that bad, but it was driving me nuts.
Thanks!
Any ideas?
My thoughts are maybe adding some hockey puck bumpstops and possibly an additional stock coil isolator for a hair more lift? It's not hitting that bad, but it was driving me nuts.
Thanks!
#2
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im running the rc drop brackets ad sit i think at 4.5 inchs of lift, and i have no issues. i have started to not trust the design though and will probably go with a longarm kit soon.
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Last edited by freegdr; 05-16-2011 at 11:14 AM.
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#8
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Year: 1999
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Any idea where Yuccaman got his numbers? He says 4" is enough on the RE set.
I'm not disputing this, just wondering...
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html
Go Jeep too:
The instructions say that alignment shims are not needed as maybe the caster is worked out for a lifted vehicle? It is worth checking it though as I show here. The brackets also move the whole axle 10 mm ( 3/8" ) forward which gives greater firewall clearance for big tyres. Be careful to check that it has not forced the coil against the swaybar link though. You can clearly see how the arms actually go up to the axle a few degrees even with my 4" lift as the lower control mount is really 4-1/2" lower than stock but the top mount drops only 4"?
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoREdropbrackets2.htm
I would think putting a stock Coil Isolator in should give 4.5" inches of total lift. As mine front end sits right now it's exactly 21" center to factory flare edge.
I thought Long Arms were better!
I'm not disputing this, just wondering...
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html
Go Jeep too:
The instructions say that alignment shims are not needed as maybe the caster is worked out for a lifted vehicle? It is worth checking it though as I show here. The brackets also move the whole axle 10 mm ( 3/8" ) forward which gives greater firewall clearance for big tyres. Be careful to check that it has not forced the coil against the swaybar link though. You can clearly see how the arms actually go up to the axle a few degrees even with my 4" lift as the lower control mount is really 4-1/2" lower than stock but the top mount drops only 4"?
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoREdropbrackets2.htm
I would think putting a stock Coil Isolator in should give 4.5" inches of total lift. As mine front end sits right now it's exactly 21" center to factory flare edge.
if you run them at 4" it would be like running arms that are too long
#9
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The problem is also the arm design. a stock arm is "thicker" or taller than an aftermarket arm, taking up some of the room. with a tubular arm you would have more clearance.
I am having the same problem right now with a radius arm. Im going to adjust for some more castor and move the pinion down some and i beleive this will take care of mine.
The lift height doesnt matter too much, because think of it this way. if you had 4.5" lift and hit a bump or stuffed the tire it would still hit
I am having the same problem right now with a radius arm. Im going to adjust for some more castor and move the pinion down some and i beleive this will take care of mine.
The lift height doesnt matter too much, because think of it this way. if you had 4.5" lift and hit a bump or stuffed the tire it would still hit
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