SYE or not?
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,169
Likes: 6
From: York, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've read on many posts that the Jeeps really are all unique in this aspect. You just have to figure it out when you install the lift, and be ready to adjust it as necessary after a short drive, and then decide if you should go with the SYE.
CF ADMIN

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
Likes: 257
From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Yes, every Jeep reacts differently to mods. It's a try it first deal.
I'm running a rustys 3" spring pack lift. (full leafs, coils, and shocks) I netted 4.5in. From it. Bought a tcase drop "just in case". I just recently went with 2in coil spacers and teraflex shackles, to go bigger. Ended up having to buy LCA's, new trackbar, and jk quicker disconnects just to be able to drive the damn thing. I'm sitting 7 inches over stock. I get driveline vibrations at 65mph. Gonna go with shims.
00 sport on 31x10.50 MTs. Every jeep reacts different, from my experience
00 sport on 31x10.50 MTs. Every jeep reacts different, from my experience
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm running a rustys 3" spring pack lift. (full leafs, coils, and shocks) I netted 4.5in. From it. Bought a tcase drop "just in case". I just recently went with 2in coil spacers and teraflex shackles, to go bigger. Ended up having to buy LCA's, new trackbar, and jk quicker disconnects just to be able to drive the damn thing. I'm sitting 7 inches over stock. I get driveline vibrations at 65mph. Gonna go with shims.
00 sport on 31x10.50 MTs. Every jeep reacts different, from my experience
00 sport on 31x10.50 MTs. Every jeep reacts different, from my experience

CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, with that much lift, you should really extend brake lines, and upgrade your steering. It is not a cheap or easy thing to upgrade from 4.5 to 6-7in of lift
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm running a rustys 3" spring pack lift. (full leafs, coils, and shocks) I netted 4.5in. From it. Bought a tcase drop "just in case". I just recently went with 2in coil spacers and teraflex shackles, to go bigger. Ended up having to buy LCA's, new trackbar, and jk quicker disconnects just to be able to drive the damn thing. I'm sitting 7 inches over stock. I get driveline vibrations at 65mph. Gonna go with shims.
00 sport on 31x10.50 MTs. Every jeep reacts different, from my experience
00 sport on 31x10.50 MTs. Every jeep reacts different, from my experience

is 7" over stock including tire size
Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: Portsmouth, VA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The components don't always work as advertised. My 3" RC coils did 2¼" so I swapped the stock isolator with a 1-3/4" spacer and it worked out pretty much right on.
If you already got the lift kit just put it on. AAL may be just fine, it depends on what condition your stock rear leafs are in. Is the back of your jeep drooping? IF so, chances are you will eventually need to get a set of full leaf packs. If thats the case, I'd look at just buying a pair of Rusty's based on my research. Both RC and RE leafs are too short from what I've read, and you end up adding relocation brackets which will result in more lift than what you want, which would also probably result in needing an SYE.
Install the lift you already got and go from there.
Install the lift you already got and go from there.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L straight 6
Thanks everyone. Ended up goin with the 3'' rc shocks all around. Rc coils up front and 3.5 re leaf packs in the bqck. So far I have no vibes ( except when snow gets frozen in the wheels ). If I get vibes il go from there. Prolly a tcase drop due to cost effectiveness. Those back shocl bolts were fun. Knocked out the nuts after they all snapped lol
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L straight 6
On second thought I'm gonna pony up and do the sye. Any suggestion on brands you've had good luck with. Hack n tap is cheaper but is i t worth it or like most things u should prolly buck up and get thw good one. And I can replace the shaft with a cut and balanced front xj shaft?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've installed 2 of these myself and had a couple friends buy them and are very happy as well. all SYE's are pretty much the same. but JB conversions explains the difference with their patented no-bind yoke (or whatever). for the same cost ($200) as most other SYE's I figure why the heck not http://www.jbconversions.com/product...1j_std_sye.php
I've always hated the idea of hack n tap. even the name sounds janky. they seem to work fine but its just one of those things that bothers me to no end for some reason. it just feels cheap and lazy. full SYE is the right choice for me. I'd like my entire tailhousing and shaft replaced
your current front drive shaft should work. just install your SYE and pop that shaft in the back. drive yourself to the junkyard and pick up another one for $30 to fit your front. no need to have anything retubed
I've always hated the idea of hack n tap. even the name sounds janky. they seem to work fine but its just one of those things that bothers me to no end for some reason. it just feels cheap and lazy. full SYE is the right choice for me. I'd like my entire tailhousing and shaft replaced
your current front drive shaft should work. just install your SYE and pop that shaft in the back. drive yourself to the junkyard and pick up another one for $30 to fit your front. no need to have anything retubed


