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I have a mild 2" lift...so not huge but any taller and my wife wouldn't be able to get in. I have to help her a bit now. Lol Anyone know of a fix for this angle? I've heard/seen extensions for higher lifts...but anyone know of a quality extension that is for a 2" lift? Trying to track down a small steering issue. So want to make sure I've got all my geometry correct with the lift. 2" doesn't seem like much but the original 20+ year old suspension was in sad shape and needed replacement.
Last edited by RocketMouse; Oct 30, 2021 at 07:37 PM.
Yeah... I just wanted all my front end geometry to be where it should. It's really not changed the position that much on the links...but didn't know long-term if that was a bad idea.
Agreed Cruiser..... I know it's not a magic fix for something like that... just trying to make sure one by one that everything is where it's supposed to be. I tend to be more methodical and not the kind to just throw stuff at the wall and see what sticks. lol
I did a 2 inch lift and got RT Offroad (Crown) replacements cause they were like $30 for the pair and I sheared both stock links when removing lol. They worked out for a while but I wound up breaking them after a while with on road use only. I may take corners a little quick, I'll admit but I think it would have happened eventually. I went to JKS quick discos which are just at the max of their height I believe but no problems anymore and I disconnect easily!
First, your frame bushings are worn out. There should be no space between the top of the bar and the start of your bushing. Your end link bushings are all squashed too. I have had. 3+ inch lift between both jeeps for almost 10 or more years now, have never had any good luck with extended end links. What i have found to work well is a frame mount drop. Its simple, easy to do , cheap and it restores stock geometry for longer life and a good ride. Basically you install a plate/ or box with a footprint slightly wider/longer than the frame bushing mounts. The thickness should be approx the same as your lift height. This lowers the back side of your sway bar to "stock" height making it meet the end links at 90 deg ish just like before the lift. If you are unsure of the exact lift height, just unbolt the frame mounts...both sides and lower them until the end link angles look good then measure the gap..thats your spacer height. If its not too thick, just use longer bolts. Mine was a 3 inch deep steel box rail i got at the metalwork shop and i did not want to run a 4 + inch long bolt so i bolted the rail to the frame with one set of bolts and then bolted the sway bar mount to the rail with a bolt and nut. Rides great no more snapping extended sway bar links and it brings geometry back to stock angles. I used steel because it was cheap...they cut me 2. 4 inch long pieces of 2 inch wide and 3 inch deep rails for 10 bucks. The walls were either 1/8 or 3/16 thick so it took a while to drill 4 precision 1/2 inch boltholes in them each. Aluminum would have been easier but that would have run me 40 or 50 bucks. Steel rail comes in a million sizes just tell them how long/wide /and deep they probably have it in the scrap pile i will try to post some pictures tomorrow if this doesn't make too much sense
I use Blue Moog poly sway bar bushings K3171 and energy suspension poly end link bushings 9.8105R for red..B for black..they might make other colors. I also use an Energy suspension poly lube..like thick vasoline but it stays a long time and doesnt dry out.or get absorbed. Its 12 bucks for an 8 oz tub at my speed shop .
Thanks everyone....and yeah Cruiser I would be...just gotta sneak the parts passed my wife.... she doesn't like my old Jeep very much...and would rather I sell it for something else... but I love my old XJ. And it was around before her so I have that goin for me. LOL