Suspension 101. Someone help the noob.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 838
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa,Oklahoma
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah I hear you on the research, sometimes its information overload and you end up dazed and confused...
Maybe you should consider a 2" budget boost, or do a 3-3.5" lift with new coils, full leaf springs, extended rear brake line and see how you like that.. you can always add tires and build on the lift from there.. .
Maybe you should consider a 2" budget boost, or do a 3-3.5" lift with new coils, full leaf springs, extended rear brake line and see how you like that.. you can always add tires and build on the lift from there.. .
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 838
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa,Oklahoma
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I could write a small bit about what I feel would.serve as do it all rig..
One thats damn capable and still able to cruise down the highway...
Let me know if you want my thoughts..
I've been dicking with xjs a while now..owned 4 in the last 3 years and have been through about 10 suspension changes
One thats damn capable and still able to cruise down the highway...
Let me know if you want my thoughts..
I've been dicking with xjs a while now..owned 4 in the last 3 years and have been through about 10 suspension changes
Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
Likes: 3
From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'll go ahead and make my spill.
In my opinion 4.5" is an optimal lift height for 33s or 35s..
With 35s you'll need some extra trimming as well as more bumpstop then with 33s
3 inches and 33s is OK and I have ran this setup before.. but much preferred 4.5 and 35s
I'd start with recovery / armor. You'd be damn surprised what a stock Xj can do...invest in a decent gas tank and a t case skid, rock sliders will also come in handy on a low(er) cog rig.
Decide if you want a winch, or just a nice low pro bumper with recovery points.
In the rear you can either use a trailer hitch with a dring or get an aftermarket bumper with d rings or a built on hitch.
There is nothing worse than Wheeling a rig with no way to be recovered..this is a priority.
As far as suspension..
I've been using RE coils..simply cause they are cheap..and work. They sit a bit higher than advertised..but it doesn't bother me much. Eventually they will sag down.
For your rear you have some options..I'd suggest a 3" leaf pack, with a 1.5" extended shackle..ome leafs would be nice..
If your going to be driving long distances save up and buy decent shocks.. 5100s should do just fine..
As far as control arms I would highly recommend long arms at 4.5 inches of lift.. after Wheeling a 3 link setup i wouldn't want anything other...if your doing a ton of highway driving then a 4 link may give you a bit better piece of mind...but the 3 link never failed me.
Now...axles..
A d30 and a 29 spline 8.25 will handle 35s..
Is it ideal..no..but with a few upgrades I'd feel OK running them long term. I ran a lp 30 and an 8.25 for a few months on my XJ on 35s and never broke..provided I was prepared to break.
Sure you can swap in an 8.8 but for the effort id just go to bigger axles..d44, d60, 14 bolt, 9 inch, etc etc. Obviously not cheap...and will require a decent bit of fan work
If you plan on keeping stock axles I'd say go with chromos and full circle clips at least.
For the front a lunch box locker would be fine..and would even work in the rear but ideally I'd want selectable on both ends.
You'll want bigger steering with either 33s or 35s..
A zj tie rod will be an upgrade..but I'd suggest x over..or something custom with Dom.
Again.
This isn't going to be cheap..building a little at a time will help..
Just take your time...and do it right the first time around.
In my opinion 4.5" is an optimal lift height for 33s or 35s..
With 35s you'll need some extra trimming as well as more bumpstop then with 33s
3 inches and 33s is OK and I have ran this setup before.. but much preferred 4.5 and 35s
I'd start with recovery / armor. You'd be damn surprised what a stock Xj can do...invest in a decent gas tank and a t case skid, rock sliders will also come in handy on a low(er) cog rig.
Decide if you want a winch, or just a nice low pro bumper with recovery points.
In the rear you can either use a trailer hitch with a dring or get an aftermarket bumper with d rings or a built on hitch.
There is nothing worse than Wheeling a rig with no way to be recovered..this is a priority.
As far as suspension..
I've been using RE coils..simply cause they are cheap..and work. They sit a bit higher than advertised..but it doesn't bother me much. Eventually they will sag down.
For your rear you have some options..I'd suggest a 3" leaf pack, with a 1.5" extended shackle..ome leafs would be nice..
If your going to be driving long distances save up and buy decent shocks.. 5100s should do just fine..
As far as control arms I would highly recommend long arms at 4.5 inches of lift.. after Wheeling a 3 link setup i wouldn't want anything other...if your doing a ton of highway driving then a 4 link may give you a bit better piece of mind...but the 3 link never failed me.
Now...axles..
A d30 and a 29 spline 8.25 will handle 35s..
Is it ideal..no..but with a few upgrades I'd feel OK running them long term. I ran a lp 30 and an 8.25 for a few months on my XJ on 35s and never broke..provided I was prepared to break.
Sure you can swap in an 8.8 but for the effort id just go to bigger axles..d44, d60, 14 bolt, 9 inch, etc etc. Obviously not cheap...and will require a decent bit of fan work
If you plan on keeping stock axles I'd say go with chromos and full circle clips at least.
For the front a lunch box locker would be fine..and would even work in the rear but ideally I'd want selectable on both ends.
You'll want bigger steering with either 33s or 35s..
A zj tie rod will be an upgrade..but I'd suggest x over..or something custom with Dom.
Again.
This isn't going to be cheap..building a little at a time will help..
Just take your time...and do it right the first time around.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Co.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you want a cheap lift go to fat bobs. They have a budget boost lift. I would get the coil spacer and extended shackle. The reason being you will ALWAYS be able to make use of the parts. For 99 bucks it's a steal. I'm on a rough country x series 4.5 with 33's and I love it. Nice and soft but no where near where I want it. I'm still mostly stock but that will slowly change. Take your time don't rush it. Don't be scared to drive everyone crazy with questions. I've learned TONS on here and at my local mechanic. He owns an xj as does his manager. They know they're stuff. Very very helpful. Find a local shop that will point you in the right direction. Again take your time. Do research knowledge will save you lots of headache and sweat. More than all that LEARN to wheel and learn your rig.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Co.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's a start. I am by no means saying I have a capable rig. It is a start. I'm not saying that fat bobs is gonna be the only thing but it comes with coil spacers and extended shackles. What do you see on virtually all lifts. Extended shackles and spacers. Least where I come from. Did not mean to make it sound like rough country was gonna do it. He was asking about starting cheaper and working up. Hence fat bobs and rough country.
Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
Likes: 3
From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Olathe Co.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Haha I'll be the first to admit that rc is at the bottom of the totem pole. So no arguing here. I was not necessarily recommending rc. Let's at least get that straight.
Old School CF Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,652
Likes: 3
From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 7
From: California
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just throwing this out there but keep an eye out for an entire Jeep thats already lifted or built and cheap because the body is breat or blown engine something like that. Then just transfer what you need. I got one for seven hundred on a 4.5 with 80% 33s, sye, 410 gears, sway bar discos, and it ran and drove. Body was just beat and no pink slip. I just transfered everything to my Jeep https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/90-...y-91-a-181505/
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Btw, this is the most polite flaming ever. How about this, what are the most important things to attack before they fail besides diffs, axles and ujoints. For example extended brake lines. Also i was reading that the part that the track bar connects to is flimsy. steering box? etc. At least i'll have specifics to search. I will do some reading and post back later and thanks for the gentle correcting...seriously not being a smart ***.
done. I watched an IFS tacoma on 31's make it through. you'll have yourself a good time with minimal breakage. then in about a year from now you'll bend some stuff and realize you hate the short arms, gearing, and steering and upgrade from there.
the most important thing is getting out there and getting some experience. a few key preventative measures that are very important in my opinion (especially since we wheel the same area)
-middle frame stiffeners
-front frame stiffeners
-track bar brace
-full circle snap rings (D30)
-belly pan
-rock sliders
-gas tank skid
-front bumper (tow point)
^^bare minimum stuff I'd recommend for the rubicon trail. or any rock crawling for that matter.
I don't normally pimp my build, but like everyone else said you need to do some reading. and my old project is probably exactly what you're trying to build. some low buck upgrades mixed with some fancy new upgrades. then hammered through CA/Reno trails
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/blue-prius-131319/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...ume-ii-162338/
Last edited by Atmos; Nov 6, 2013 at 02:56 PM.
See, this is some bs, no money and blamo, look what hits cl
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4173990043.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4173990043.html
Here's a good read that I found, wider than I want to go so at least now I know old Ford axles are out for me.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/r...a-44-a-397243/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/r...a-44-a-397243/


