supercharger on stock engine
Not skimping on engine. In process of building stroker. Will not have stroker done in time. Gonna use supercharger this season and swap in stroker next winter and use supercharger on stroker. Not being cheap by any means. But my op was asking about reliability on higher mileage stock engine.
You will have no reliability issues with a 200k mile engine as long as it is mechanically sound. Good compression, good cooling system, no CELs.
A supercharger with 6-7 pounds boost will be fine as long as the IAT is kept in check and good fueling and timing retard under boost.
For your stroker build- Use a new Scat crank and forged rods, custom forged pistons with pin height to make 0 deck, MLS head gasket, ARP head bolts or studs, ported big valve head, if using 99+ block then get cam from Jones Cams, if earlier block use Comp 232 cam.
Your stroker supercharged engine will beat up on those other competitors. You will be that guy with the 'little inline 6' beating up on those other guys. My son's friend Frankie Johnson in NC does just this.
A supercharger with 6-7 pounds boost will be fine as long as the IAT is kept in check and good fueling and timing retard under boost.
For your stroker build- Use a new Scat crank and forged rods, custom forged pistons with pin height to make 0 deck, MLS head gasket, ARP head bolts or studs, ported big valve head, if using 99+ block then get cam from Jones Cams, if earlier block use Comp 232 cam.
Your stroker supercharged engine will beat up on those other competitors. You will be that guy with the 'little inline 6' beating up on those other guys. My son's friend Frankie Johnson in NC does just this.
Thanks for your reply cobramarty, thats the opinion i was wanting to hear from EXPERIENCE, not just opinions from others that dont know what they are talking about. As far as the stroker build, your combo you mentioned is almost exactly the route i am goin. Needing to run old engine until i can get stroker built and was hoping it would make it through the season.Thanks again for your experienced reply!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can tell you one thing from 50 yrs of experience to go fast it costs a lot of money, the faster you want to go increases all costs. Anyone who has ever raced anything will tell you the engine is only a small part of the overall increase in performance and cost.
Been there done that way to long.
Been there done that way to long.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 974
Likes: 14
From: Racine, WI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i was asking the op, not the majority of jeep owners. as the majority of jeep owners have no idea how an engine works. I feel that the op could easily put a turbo on his jeep, make much more power and have less invested vs a blower setup.
It's strange to me how much hate flys around on this site. I suppose the original post should have included the info about the stroker currently being built etc but geeze, it's crazy how many people are ready to jump down someone's throat. Could have easily said what Marty said. Keep the intake temps down and make sure the cooling system is up to par. Instead a bunch of people "reminding" someone how much their build is gonna cost.
So with my rant over, I'll throw in the little bit of knowledge I have regarding forced induction.
Timing retard and fuel control are your best friends. Invest in a quality wide band O2 sensor and gauge. This will let you see real time A/F ratios and hopefully see a lean condition coming before it's too late.
I'm mostly familiar with turbo setups that easily let you regulate boost, but maybe you could get a pulley for ~4-5lbs and one for ~6-7lbs. This way you can maybe ease into the boost range without popping something.
Good luck with your races this season, hope it all works out.
So with my rant over, I'll throw in the little bit of knowledge I have regarding forced induction.
Timing retard and fuel control are your best friends. Invest in a quality wide band O2 sensor and gauge. This will let you see real time A/F ratios and hopefully see a lean condition coming before it's too late.
I'm mostly familiar with turbo setups that easily let you regulate boost, but maybe you could get a pulley for ~4-5lbs and one for ~6-7lbs. This way you can maybe ease into the boost range without popping something.
Good luck with your races this season, hope it all works out.
The price pre hp is kinda bad tho,A stroker is what a easy 4k and the blower kit is what 2500 bucks that 6500 bucks total.For that price you could swap a ls and have money left for bolt ons and probably have double the power.
Thank you CR-Snow for your sensible reply. Good info. To all the people quick to say do a v-8 swap, I don't want a v-8 swap, I want to be able to run in 6&8 cyl classes. Bragging rights with 6 cyl.
Why do so many recommend a V8 swap when many have never done it themselves? Advice from 'want-a-bees' and 'have-never-done-its' is just just that, advice without experience. When an OP asks a question, it's his question and not someone's opinion. He's not asking for permission, opinions or advice, He's asking for an answer to his question based on someone else's experience.
My apology to those who have done a V8 swap and offer answers to the question asked.
My apology to those who have done a V8 swap and offer answers to the question asked.
CF Veteran


Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 155
From: Northern CT
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Turbo 4.0
Leak down test. If it's within normal parameters than it will perform just as well as an engine that has 10k on it with the same numbers. Would you like a parts list and prices of a build your own job?




