cptmohog

So I have saved up enough tp start to do something with the axles. I have decided to go with a ford 8.8 with c-clip eliminator shafts and Ox locker in the rear. I do not have the cash to do the front at the same time (exept gears) and before you ask, I have a mechanic buddy that works at the local 4wd shop that does this for me for pennies (and beer) so there is no install $lost at all! ( and I dont want to wait another 6months to be at least locked in the rear, and more important regeared)

My question (s) are these: should I go with a dana 44 in front later or a super 30? If I go with the super 30, I am only wasting around $120 due to not doing them both at one time. If I go with the 44, I am wasting around $500 for not doing them at the same time.

I am running 33's and my terrain is very little mud, and what I would call more than moderate rock crawling, but nowhere near extreme (if that makes sense) this is only a daily driver in a emergancy, but also has to get me to the trail as it is not trailered (can be up to 150 miles)I do plan on a couple years down the road going to 35's, but never higher.

Also I was planning on going with 456 gears for the 33's, but I understand 488 would be the best for 35's.

So based on all the info: 1. would a super 30 be enough for me, and 2. should I go with 456 or 488 (it may be a couple of years before I were to go to 35's) I also could truss the 30 if needed (overall the super 30 would be around 1000 less (these are based on east coast gear) Note: I would not go to 35's prior to upgrading the 30 to a super 30

I should also mention my xj is 95 with the high pinion 30

thanks in advance

xjmarc

A stock 30 will hold 35s unless you dog it. You should have the bigger shafts in it with the same size u-joint as a 44. 4.56s are a great gear, ran them with 33s, 35s and now with my 38s, not quite low enough now but they do OK. 4.88s with 33s will do good on the trail but will kill you on the highway.

E-Rok

I dont think going with a c-clip eliminator is needed on the 8.8 with 33's or 35's, plus you have disc braks so you wont lose a wheel if you do happen to snap a shaft, as the caliper will hold it in.

I think a 30 will be fine for your setup, unless you find a real good deal on a 44 (not likely)

cptmohog

If thats the case, and I could go with the stock shafts (in the 8.8), and the 30 as is, without going to the super, I could actually put a ox in the front, and have both axles done for about $100 over my previous scenerio!

Thoughts?

cptmohog

or eliminate the cclip eliminators, upgrade to the super 30, and wait for the locker (in the front) till later

cptmohog

I might add, I am not a mechanic whatsoever...I would say at least half the trips I take have no mechanic... I don't want to get stranded...granted, it has never happened yet in 23 years of wheeling, but I am just a driver, not a wrencher!

Note: this is the first Jeep I have had since my 59 ****** in high school 23 years ago! since then I have hadx a 83 yota, and a 76 k5, which axles were never an issue!

PingPong

Here is my take on the super 30.. its 1800 bones... you can find a built d44 for that price if you are patient and watch pirate/naxja/CL. As for the super88 I think it is a worthy upgrade. It widens the axle back to stock, plus gives you dual bolt patterns which makes it easier to get 5x5.5 to work on the front.


SInce you are a driver and not a wrench I suggest you buy bullet proof parts.

Also as for gearing... why limit your choices to 4.56/4.88 if you go to a d44. 5.13's are a perfect match for 36's. I know you said you didnt plan on going bigger, but deals happen.

xjmarc

Can't do the Super30 without a locker since it changes the spline count.