When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the lift style SRB on mine now and I'm itching to get them off... They drop the rear of the leaf spring too much, causing it to rear steer like crazy if I take the rear Addco sway bar off. It drives great on there with the sway bar, but I'd rather not rely on it. I have a set of the no-lift style from StinkyFab sitting on the shelf waiting for their turn. I chose them because of the extra holes they have where they mount to the frame rail because of my hitch. Looking at your picture above, the ones from Ironman4x4 may be easier...
Actually, your shackle angle looks pretty good. Is it hitting the back of the pocket? The shackle perpendicular to the line between the eyelets allows for the most flex. Having the shackle laid down is an internet myth that may work for some vehicles in some situations, not in a street driven XJ, I assure you...
Hey all - thanks for independent confirmation from two different people. The little bit of research I'd done on this somehow got into my head that the angle should be different - good to know that I may have 100 problems, but shackle angle isn't one of them! Sure appreciate the feedback.
Many people will say that a 45 degree shackle angle allows better articulation and bit of smoother ride, so it just depends on what your use is. I put the shackle re-location brackets on mine to get a little bit more angle than what you have and it does ride a bit smoother, but I also do quite a bit of rock crawling so was looking for more articulation. If you do go that route with the shackle relocation, DO NOT use the Rough Country brackets. They will shear off your factory mounting brackets if using them for off-road (ask me how I know). They are probably fine for a daily driver but if you are off-roading at all I wouldn't trust them. I swapped to the Iron Man brackets that bolt to the unibody rail.
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I think your opinion is generated by people on here that want to relocate the attachment point forward so that the shackle sits more flat. It will give a smoother ride because it makes the spring tend to bend in an "S" shape. However that puts a tremendous strain on the mount and can eventually make the metal fail. I refer to a recent video of "TrailMater" on Youtube. He has a welder on his wrecker and went out on a Moab trail to make the repair. Proper design is what you have. I know there will be people that object to what I say, but there is a reason no factory vehicle comes with that design
Those should work; you'll probably want some zero-lift brackets though and not too many companies make those, so there isn't much selection. I've been happy with SFR's. They mount to the crossmember, the frame rail, and through the floorboard, so no worries about anything letting go back there.
A 45 degree angle is 'ideal' but it varies depending on shackle length, leaf spring rate, and cargo weight. Anything over 70 is going to ride pretty rough as the shackle is just bouncing up and down on the main leaf instead of rotating back and allowing the pack to flatten out and do its job.
I think your opinion is generated by people on here that want to relocate the attachment point forward so that the shackle sits more flat. It will give a smoother ride because it makes the spring tend to bend in an "S" shape. However that puts a tremendous strain on the mount and can eventually make the metal fail. I refer to a recent video of "TrailMater" on Youtube. He has a welder on his wrecker and went out on a Moab trail to make the repair. Proper design is what you have. I know there will be people that object to what I say, but there is a reason no factory vehicle comes with that design
That's only on the brackets that aren't zero-lift, because they re-use the factory box as a mounting point which just turns it into leverage. Proper zero-lift brackets (StinkyFab, Ironman, Frohelich...HD Engineering used to make them but went MIA) which replace the box entirely don't have that issue because they mount flush against the rail and the body in place of the factory sheet metal.
They are a bit more of a pain to install due to removing the original mount, but you won't end up with 1" - 1.5" of unwanted useless lift and they'll never fold like that one did.
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Originally Posted by JK253
That's only on the brackets that aren't zero-lift, because they re-use the factory box as a mounting point which just turns it into leverage. Proper zero-lift brackets (StinkyFab, Ironman, Frohelich...HD Engineering used to make them but went MIA) which replace the box entirely don't have that issue because they mount flush against the rail and the body in place of the factory sheet metal.
They are a bit more of a pain to install due to removing the original mount, but you won't end up with 1" - 1.5" of unwanted useless lift and they'll never fold like that one did.
I knew this would get some response
But having been in the business of doing custom suspensions, I will stand by what I said
I also used to preach 45 degree shackles, and even ran mine flatter than that for awhile, but recently dove a bit more into leaf spring suspension geometry and its effect on vehicle dynamics. My conclusion: shackle perpendicular to the datum line of the spring is the best setup. It produces the closest to linear spring rate possible. Pair that with a shackle not much longer than is necessary (less lateral movement of the axle), and also the rear mount higher than the front (less longitudinal movement of the axle), and the axle will travel in a more controlled, predictable manner that will be felt as a better driving experience.
But having been in the business of doing custom suspensions, I will stand by what I said
I'm not saying there's anything inherently wrong with the factory box, just the way that most brackets mount to it. But there's no way a proper bracket like this made from 1/4" steel which sits in the exact same spot is worse or weaker than that factory sheet metal and pocketed nut setup.
Stupid shackle angle with 6.5" RC lift - best solution?
