After installation of the RR SYE, the fork and rod get stuck in the 4WD position. Removing the plug on the back of the SYE and tapping the end of the shift rod forward just a little bit pops the fork forward and slides the ring off the 4WD chain hub. (If you know the inside of a 231 you will get the picture).

Not a linkage problem, since the linkage pulls the external TC lever into its proper 2H position. The rod and fork don't want to follow. The rod spring pushes the rod forward. Or at least is supposed to. And does, when the rod is advanced manually just a little.

So, I figure there is some obstruction from a re-assy error, or the rod gets pulled back too far and is "over the hump" on the shift cam operated by the shift lever.

Assuming its the latter, and not the first, if I drill, tap and thread a small machine screw into the plug to function as a shift rod stop and limit its rearward movement the problem will be solved. But is the rod moving the 4WD collar back far enough on the chain hub to be fully engaged when it is intended to be in 4WD?

We are only talking about 1/16" shift rod limit here. Anyone had to deal with this before?

 

I installed my Rugged Ridge SYE & didn't have any issues at all. I'm trying to figure out how you have this problem. Did you pull the transfer case or install the SYE while it was in? Can you just play around with the linkage to limit it's movement?

 

If I'm reading this right, sounds like the fork shaft is binding on the new tail housing because it's not centered. Common problem as they have a little bit of rotational play, if it's not centered it will do what you are describing. Sometimes the case won't shift at all because the holeit the tail housing is to far off.
Or is the transfer case from an early model jeep? Did you have to shorted the fork shaft? Just guessing on this part but if the shaft is cut to short itmight cause it to travel to far back like what your are describing.

 

We are on to something here. I can see it having rotational play and binding the shaft.

I will loosen the cone bolts and see if that pops it free. The cone has no centering pins like the back half of the T-case. So it is very possible to have it a bit rotated.

This is the stuff I was hoping to hear from this learned forum. Thanks for your input.

With a little luck I can loosen, rotate, and tighten without dis-assy. If it leaks, worse case is I will have to remove the yoke and cone, and reapply RTV.

 

FWIW, I had to shave about 1/8" off the end of the shift rod. Works perfectly now.