Specific questions for ZJ disc brake upgrade on my XJ
Bench bleeding always eliminates the question of air in the master. Do you have ABS? Not sure on the Bleed procedure for that
When I bled the prop valve, I had my friend pressurize and hold, then backed the prop valve cover screw thingy off until fluid started coming out of the threads, apparently it doesn't bleed through the nipple from what I have seen (go figure). Did that 3-4 times, did not bench bleed the master but I kind of want to
When I bled the prop valve, I had my friend pressurize and hold, then backed the prop valve cover screw thingy off until fluid started coming out of the threads, apparently it doesn't bleed through the nipple from what I have seen (go figure). Did that 3-4 times, did not bench bleed the master but I kind of want to
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 11
From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You guys do know there is a newer alternative to the ZJ disc brake swap don't you? After all the "Newest ZJ" will be 20 years old soon, and you cannot get replacement backing plates for love or money.
In 2003 the Jeep Liberty came out with disc brakes on the Corporate 8.25 rear end!!
I got mine off a 2003 Renegade.
Almost everything is just bolt on except parking brake cables and the rubber/steel brake lines are now Metric instead of Imperial.
I sourced the parking brake cables from Napa. Sorry don't have part numbers but I'm positive they are on this site somewhere.
DO NOT get the one's from Crown. They are not the correct equal length and adjusting them will be a *****.
And I took the ends of the steel lines where they bolt into the dividing block and cut them off. I then used new imperial line nuts and double flared the ends. Lots of line length but the steel is harder than you'd believe!
Now I have brake parts that are only 14 to 5 years old. Much easier to source replacement parts at O'Reilly's or whoever and wreckers.
In 2003 the Jeep Liberty came out with disc brakes on the Corporate 8.25 rear end!!
I got mine off a 2003 Renegade.
Almost everything is just bolt on except parking brake cables and the rubber/steel brake lines are now Metric instead of Imperial.
I sourced the parking brake cables from Napa. Sorry don't have part numbers but I'm positive they are on this site somewhere.
DO NOT get the one's from Crown. They are not the correct equal length and adjusting them will be a *****.
And I took the ends of the steel lines where they bolt into the dividing block and cut them off. I then used new imperial line nuts and double flared the ends. Lots of line length but the steel is harder than you'd believe!
Now I have brake parts that are only 14 to 5 years old. Much easier to source replacement parts at O'Reilly's or whoever and wreckers.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Well, I went with new everything except the backing plates (including calipers and brake lines). Mine were from a southern rust-free vehicle. Almost no rust at all, and what rust there was I wire-wheeled off and spray painted, but corrosion would definitely factor into it
The Liberty/Renegade brakes are fine as well, but the ZJ ones were designed for the heavy V8 ZJ's so they are just as good I suspect. To each his own - ZJ's are dime a dozen in the yards around me, but they charge a LOT for parts, and Big David's price (sells them in the for sale section) seemed to be only marginally more than I would have paid by going myself.
But yes - if I did go to the yard I likely would have grabbed the backing plates and calipers from a Liberty, and brake lines + prop valve from a ZJ because most of the jeeps in the JY up here are pretty rusty
The Liberty/Renegade brakes are fine as well, but the ZJ ones were designed for the heavy V8 ZJ's so they are just as good I suspect. To each his own - ZJ's are dime a dozen in the yards around me, but they charge a LOT for parts, and Big David's price (sells them in the for sale section) seemed to be only marginally more than I would have paid by going myself.
But yes - if I did go to the yard I likely would have grabbed the backing plates and calipers from a Liberty, and brake lines + prop valve from a ZJ because most of the jeeps in the JY up here are pretty rusty
CF Veteran


Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 44
From: Gainesville GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the remarks.
In all honesty, the I6 & V8 share the same rear discs & 99% sure the same front brakes.
There are PLENTY of ZJ rear disc brake parts in the jys. The ones around me are usually rust free southern Jeeps. You just have to go on the right day(s).
In all honesty, the I6 & V8 share the same rear discs & 99% sure the same front brakes.
There are PLENTY of ZJ rear disc brake parts in the jys. The ones around me are usually rust free southern Jeeps. You just have to go on the right day(s).
Last edited by Big David; Mar 31, 2017 at 09:44 PM.
DONE!
I replaced the master cylinder over the weekend and went to bleeding the brakes again (for like the zillionth and a half time). I bench bleed the MC before installing it as I just so happen to have a bench bleeding kit in my toolbox. It's just a bunch a plastic adapters to go where the brake lines are and barbed fitting on the other side to connect to rubber hoses. This way you can have the lines run back into the reservoir and just pump out all the bubbles.
Once that was in, I started with bleeding the prop valve and finally I got fluid to come out! Woot! Then started with the calipers at the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Took it out for a spin and the brakes feel pretty solid! I was even able to get the tires screeching doing hard stops in the parking lot!
Now I can finally move on to all the other maintenance that needs to get done before I can go ahead and start working on the lift kit!
I replaced the master cylinder over the weekend and went to bleeding the brakes again (for like the zillionth and a half time). I bench bleed the MC before installing it as I just so happen to have a bench bleeding kit in my toolbox. It's just a bunch a plastic adapters to go where the brake lines are and barbed fitting on the other side to connect to rubber hoses. This way you can have the lines run back into the reservoir and just pump out all the bubbles.
Once that was in, I started with bleeding the prop valve and finally I got fluid to come out! Woot! Then started with the calipers at the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Took it out for a spin and the brakes feel pretty solid! I was even able to get the tires screeching doing hard stops in the parking lot!
Now I can finally move on to all the other maintenance that needs to get done before I can go ahead and start working on the lift kit!


