S10 Bastard Pack Question
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
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From: EAFB, SD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by WantACherokee
Interesting question. I suppose it would depend on how far off they are. I just got through enlarging the hole in my XJ top leaf to fit the 3/8" pin the S10 springs use. Man that spring steel is tough, took a carbide tipped bit and a lot of patience just to open up the holes an extra 1/16 of an inch. I can't imagine having to drill fresh holes through an entire spring pack.
Originally Posted by WantACherokee
Probably a lot less than $200 since most of us get the S10 springs out of a junkyard... my local you-pull yard charges around $30 per pack for leaf springs which is a little high IMO. I got both of mine for $30 from a guy who pulled them and then changed his mind. There are deals out there if you look around.
Sets of leaf springs. $40
Center pins and u bolts $40
My first one lasted me 4 months because the springs were shot. I got a second set of leafs from a known truck and now it is good. $40.
In the end I still saved some cash from the full leaf packs, but the time and effort involved was a lot more than tossing in a set of new leaves
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
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From: EAFB, SD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by Bustedknuckle
+1.
From someone who has bastard packed, just go new.
From someone who has bastard packed, just go new.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
one good thing about doing a bastard pack for a stage one lift, you won't need to worry about that pesky front leaf spring bolt as you can just leave that main spring bolted in and build the pack under it.
some of you will know what i mean.
some of you will know what i mean.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Portland, Oregon
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Not arguing that new packs would be nice, but my S10 packs cost me $30 and I would have had to buy new u-bolts either way. Add $7 for center pins and $7 for the drill bit and I'm only out $44 for these packs vs. $200+ for new ones. At $44 I can afford to experiment with these. If I decide they suck oh well, I'm not out much. I'm a big fan of junkyard upgrades and adapting stuff from other vehicles, to me its just more interesting and more satisfying than a catalog built rig. If I buy premade leaf packs later on at least I can say I've tried a couple different setups and found what worked best for me personally.
Dumb question: I see one section of the leaves is longer when measuring from the hole for the spring pin to the ends of the leaves. That longer section should be pointing rearward when installed on the Jeep, correct?
Dumb question: I see one section of the leaves is longer when measuring from the hole for the spring pin to the ends of the leaves. That longer section should be pointing rearward when installed on the Jeep, correct?
Last edited by WantACherokee; Nov 13, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah, i think so. i never keep that info logged into my brain. i need room in there for more important stuff. lol.
just do a quick measure on your leaves from center to mounts and install them the same way.
just do a quick measure on your leaves from center to mounts and install them the same way.
Thread Starter
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From: Portland, Oregon
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yeah that's what I did, the stock leaves had the longer section at the back, so I oriented the S10 leaves the same way.
I got everything together using all three of the S10 leaves under my XJ main. Right now it sits about 1" higher than I'd like. Any suggestions on which of the leaves I should remove, and whether I should swap them for XJ leaves or just leave them out completely?
Right now the packs seem pretty stiff, wondering if maybe I should also add a shackle so I can rely less on the packs to give me that much lift, as someone suggested.
Here are the leaves I'm using and how they look installed in case it helps anything.
I got everything together using all three of the S10 leaves under my XJ main. Right now it sits about 1" higher than I'd like. Any suggestions on which of the leaves I should remove, and whether I should swap them for XJ leaves or just leave them out completely?
Right now the packs seem pretty stiff, wondering if maybe I should also add a shackle so I can rely less on the packs to give me that much lift, as someone suggested.
Here are the leaves I'm using and how they look installed in case it helps anything.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
looks good. that inch will settle in time. sure a shackle will help with the flexing, but if you tighten the u-bolts down while the weight of the jeep is on the ground, (jack under the axle works) as long as the weight is on the suspension, then it should flex pretty good.
don't forget to cut those u-bolts down.
don't forget to cut those u-bolts down.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 759
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From: Florida
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have XJ Main, S10 Blazer main, New AAL, and some S10 leafs for the rest. I have about 5" lift, WAY TOO stiff. I hate the way it rides and will try to take out the new AAL and see if I have more flex AND the height I want.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
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From: Portland, Oregon
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well I got everything finished today and it actually doesn't ride too stiff at all, so I'll guess I'll give it a couple weeks for the springs to settle before I worry about the ride height. As for the flex maybe I can find something to test that on tomorrow (a bit hard when you live in the city lol), hopefully its decent though. And yeah I cut the u-bolts down haha.
Last edited by WantACherokee; Nov 14, 2011 at 11:40 PM.
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From: Central Washington
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
One thing to check, as I cant remember if you mentioned it: watch your LCAs on the axle end. Street driving at 3.5" lift and stock everything might work, but Im worried about the upper part of the LCA colliding with the axle.mount when the axle drops. Im saving up for new LCAs, maybe new mounts. Just something I hear rarely talked about and was concerning when I noticed it on mine (when the lift was done it looks like the axle can only go down an inch or so before the two rub).
CF Veteran
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by TrollHammer
One thing to check, as I cant remember if you mentioned it: watch your LCAs on the axle end. Street driving at 3.5" lift and stock everything might work, but Im worried about the upper part of the LCA colliding with the axle.mount when the axle drops. Im saving up for new LCAs, maybe new mounts. Just something I hear rarely talked about and was concerning when I noticed it on mine (when the lift was done it looks like the axle can only go down an inch or so before the two rub).


