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Roof rack lighting

Old Feb 22, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #1  
Topaz45's Avatar
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From: Johnsonville, South Carolina
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Roof rack lighting

Bought a roof rack off CL and it came with 2 lights on front, rear and both sides. I am trying to figure out the bet wiring for it now. I want to run 6 switches;
1. Master (running a master to require two switch turn on so there not easily bumped and flipped on)
2. Front bumper lights
3. Front rack lights
4. Rear rack lights (thinking about tapping them in with reverse lights not sure)
5. Left rack lights
6. Right rack lights

I am pretty good with wiring when it comes to stereo systems and such but the whole relay, properly fused assortment of wiring.

Any help would be great, simple diagram or something would be great

1998 XJ
It's a home brew rack with 100 watt light all the way around
Two 55 watt driving lights on the front bumper

Gonna use a switch panel out of an ambulance that's made for 6 switches which fits perfectly in the armrest for concealment. Also allows plenty of room to not have to crowd the wiring in behind the dash or something.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #2  
Monster Mopar's Avatar
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From: Cle Elum, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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So you have 6 lights total? 2 bumper, 2 front rack, and 2 rear rack?

If you want that much controll over your lights, which seems a bit excessive, honestly. The simplest way would to be put the 2 front bumper lights on 1 switch, then put on each roof rack light on it's own switch. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure, you'll have to use diodes to prevent power back feeding and turning on unwanted lights.... I'm sure there is a way to do it with out diodes, but I'd have to think for a second.

Either way, If you want this much controll I'd suggest using some double poll double throw (dpdt) switches which would take out at least 2 switches and thus free up some real estate on your dash/console

If it were me I'd have a switch for:
Master
bumper lights
front rack lights
rear rack lights

I honestly cant think of a situation where I would only want one side illuminated and couldn't have the other side illuminated as well.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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From: Johnsonville, South Carolina
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No I have 10 lights total.
2 on front bumper
2 on the front of the rack
2 on the rear of the rack
2 on the left of the rack
2 on the right of the rack

I'm looking for one switch for each pair of lights.


I now I will have to use relays and all but that what I am unsure of how to wire it all. Without burning it down.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #4  
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Oh okay. That's easy. But I'll have to get back to you when I'm at a real computer and not in class on my phone
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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pretty much just like this
Attached Thumbnails Roof rack lighting-switchpanel02_wiring.jpg   Roof rack lighting-relaybox01_wiring.jpg  
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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What's the purpose of the relays and are they required. I can do the wiring just don't have all of the technical sides of it
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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If they are required what's the wiring diagram on them, there's four posts on the but which is what and what is what
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Year: 1993
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Relays are not required but are best so you keep the load off the switch.
Attached Images  
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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well the relays protect the lights and switches so you dont kill them. when you look at the relay, pin 30 is power, pin85 goes to the switch, pin86 is ground, and pin87 is the acc. (light)
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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Thanks. Just wasn't sure about the whole relay. But that sums it right up for me
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Jeepjunky
pretty much just like this

Suggested Fuse size? or is there a way to figure the right fuse size?

I got everything together and have it all mocked up ready to be finished up.

(2) front bumper 100 watts a piece
( 8 ) Rack lights 55 watts a piece
switches (Carling 20 amp 12 v) each switch running a pair pf lights!
standard 30 amp relays ((5) 1 for each pair of lights)
8 gauge main power to a distribution box which splits off to each relay via 12 gauge wire.
Cat5 from switch signal to relay
Ground Block grounded to frame with 6 gauge cable 12 gauge running to all ground point on switches and relays.

What size ground and power wire should I run up to the lights and whats the best route to the roof from the console area that want cause a leak or look horrible.


I am housing all of this inside the console with the switches under the lid for easy access. I shouldn't have any heat concerns with all of this in such close and confined quarters should I?

Last edited by Topaz45; Mar 13, 2012 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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Bump. Any ideas, suggestions, help
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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How did you get the wires from the roof/lights into the cabin to the main power supply? I have been working on mine this week, and can't figure out the best way to do it. I have the wires ready to be run into the cabin, but wasn't sure where to go next to get to roof the easiest.

Let me know how you ran yours.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:00 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hudock
How did you get the wires from the roof/lights into the cabin to the main power supply? I have been working on mine this week, and can't figure out the best way to do it. I have the wires ready to be run into the cabin, but wasn't sure where to go next to get to roof the easiest.

Let me know how you ran yours.
A lot of people drill into the roof run wires that way. But it's a hole in the roof.
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:23 AM
  #15  
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From: Johnsonville, South Carolina
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Originally Posted by hudock
How did you get the wires from the roof/lights into the cabin to the main power supply? I have been working on mine this week, and can't figure out the best way to do it. I have the wires ready to be run into the cabin, but wasn't sure where to go next to get to roof the easiest.

Let me know how you ran yours.


I am going to drill a hole in the back where the hatch is near the hatch harness and find a grommet to run them through. I have my rack up and all of my lights ready to go on but still in the working on all of my wiring.
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