Rear winch power cable routing?
11-17-2012, 08:37 AM
#16
CF Veteran
For a fuse try the Blue Sea 5503 ANL fuse block. It's rated for 750A. I'm using the 5005 in my system because I'm limiting the current to 300A. My winch is only rated at 280A at full load. If I change winches later and require higher capacity I will upgrade at that point. Check out Electronic Industries also for the best pricing I've ever seen on Blue Sea stuff (you have to call them for a quote).
Anyways thanks a ton for the link, that's exactly what I need. Also, I'm planning on using Anderson connectors for quick disconnect on front/rear, do you think that'll work well?
Last edited by Dan91; 11-17-2012 at 08:40 AM.
11-17-2012, 09:40 AM
#17
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Year: 2000 Ltd.
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I'm fairly sure 4/0 aluminum is rated to a little over 300A so I'd like to fuse mine at 300A as well. My only concern is if I were in a collision the wire might be pinched and start a fire, so I need the fuse to burn first Anyways thanks a ton for the link, that's exactly what I need. Also, I'm planning on using Anderson connectors for quick disconnect on front/rear, do you think that'll work well?
Anyways thanks a ton for the link, that's exactly what I need. Also, I'm planning on using Anderson connectors for quick disconnect on front/rear, do you think that'll work well?I also picked up a Blue Sea 9003e disconnect that is rated for 350A continuous. It was only a few dollars more than their 300A one (6006) so I went with it. It's a decent size unit though so if I can't fit it in I may have to go get the other one. My plan is to have the disconnect off unless I'm off-roading and may likely need the winch. That will keep the power leads from being hot 24/7. The fuse will blow if the wires short, but I'm more concerned about something shorting in the winch like a solenoid getting stuck or something like that that stalls the winch out.
The quick connectors are the way to go. I'm going to use the SB175 connectors. Everyone says they're only rated to 175A (and they have "175A-600V" on the connectors themselves) but the Anderson website and data sheet says the contacts "Allows UL rated currents up to 280 amps." Since my winch is only 280A I think I'm OK to use them. I take it with a grain of salt, but all the OEMs that have winch power cable kits use the 175 connectors also and they're running like 400 amps through them.
11-17-2012, 07:06 PM
#18
CF Veteran
You can put what ever fuse you want in that fuse holder. The holder it self is rated to hand UP TO 750A. I don't know what you have for a winch but most are well over 300A at full load. The old Ramsey I picked up maxes out at 280A for 8000# pull. A dead short will pull way more than a winch so if you size the fuse for the anticipated max load from the winch (plus a little bit) you should be OK.
I also picked up a Blue Sea 9003e disconnect that is rated for 350A continuous. It was only a few dollars more than their 300A one (6006) so I went with it. It's a decent size unit though so if I can't fit it in I may have to go get the other one. My plan is to have the disconnect off unless I'm off-roading and may likely need the winch. That will keep the power leads from being hot 24/7. The fuse will blow if the wires short, but I'm more concerned about something shorting in the winch like a solenoid getting stuck or something like that that stalls the winch out.
The quick connectors are the way to go. I'm going to use the SB175 connectors. Everyone says they're only rated to 175A (and they have "175A-600V" on the connectors themselves) but the Anderson website and data sheet says the contacts "Allows UL rated currents up to 280 amps." Since my winch is only 280A I think I'm OK to use them. I take it with a grain of salt, but all the OEMs that have winch power cable kits use the 175 connectors also and they're running like 400 amps through them.
I also picked up a Blue Sea 9003e disconnect that is rated for 350A continuous. It was only a few dollars more than their 300A one (6006) so I went with it. It's a decent size unit though so if I can't fit it in I may have to go get the other one. My plan is to have the disconnect off unless I'm off-roading and may likely need the winch. That will keep the power leads from being hot 24/7. The fuse will blow if the wires short, but I'm more concerned about something shorting in the winch like a solenoid getting stuck or something like that that stalls the winch out.
The quick connectors are the way to go. I'm going to use the SB175 connectors. Everyone says they're only rated to 175A (and they have "175A-600V" on the connectors themselves) but the Anderson website and data sheet says the contacts "Allows UL rated currents up to 280 amps." Since my winch is only 280A I think I'm OK to use them. I take it with a grain of salt, but all the OEMs that have winch power cable kits use the 175 connectors also and they're running like 400 amps through them.
11-17-2012, 09:12 PM
#19
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That disconnect sounds like a great idea too. See, the Warn rear winch cable package is only 2 gauge (according to some random posts online). Many other people have ran their rear lines with 2/0 copper, so I think my 4/0 aluminum should be fine. According to https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilit.../Wire_Size.htm 4/0 has a max load in chassis wiring of 380 amps, aluminum should be slightly less, maybe 340. That's likely a continuous load rating so I think I'll be alright but we'll see. I haven't chosen a winch yet.
12-02-2012, 12:20 AM
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It's an intermittent load, so there's some forgiveness. However, there's no way I'd run aluminum wire - too much conductor loss, and aluminum is an inefficient conductor anyhow.
For the XJ, lift up the doorsill trim on the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll find a channel under there that's about 1" square - ready-made for a wiring trunk (and matches the one down the driver's side, but the DS channel already has a harness in it. It's the front-to-back harness for lighting and speakers.)
I'd put the positive lead there. Also, I'd be careful about running it through the firewall - if you don't use a rigid post (to avoid running jacketed wire through a metal bulkhead,) then you want at least two layers of protection above and beyond the cable jacket itself (a rigid grommet and "spaghetti tube" can be considered a minimum - the tube can be sealed to the grommet using RTV, and the cable can be secured to the inside of the spaghetti tube in the same manner. This also helps to eliminate the potential for the cable to rub against the bulkhead in the first place.
The Anderson SB-series connector works well, with the SB175 being suitable for most winch applications. However, some winches with a much higher current draw should use the Anderson SB350 connector, instead.
If you like, hit me backchannel and I can help you design a setup. And, if you want, I can find the parts and assemble a kit for you - you'll still have to put it in, but the rest of the work will be done! (I can't put it in for you, I'm too far away...)
For the XJ, lift up the doorsill trim on the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll find a channel under there that's about 1" square - ready-made for a wiring trunk (and matches the one down the driver's side, but the DS channel already has a harness in it. It's the front-to-back harness for lighting and speakers.)
I'd put the positive lead there. Also, I'd be careful about running it through the firewall - if you don't use a rigid post (to avoid running jacketed wire through a metal bulkhead,) then you want at least two layers of protection above and beyond the cable jacket itself (a rigid grommet and "spaghetti tube" can be considered a minimum - the tube can be sealed to the grommet using RTV, and the cable can be secured to the inside of the spaghetti tube in the same manner. This also helps to eliminate the potential for the cable to rub against the bulkhead in the first place.
The Anderson SB-series connector works well, with the SB175 being suitable for most winch applications. However, some winches with a much higher current draw should use the Anderson SB350 connector, instead.
If you like, hit me backchannel and I can help you design a setup. And, if you want, I can find the parts and assemble a kit for you - you'll still have to put it in, but the rest of the work will be done! (I can't put it in for you, I'm too far away...)
12-02-2012, 08:26 AM
#22
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It's an intermittent load, so there's some forgiveness. However, there's no way I'd run aluminum wire - too much conductor loss, and aluminum is an inefficient conductor anyhow.
For the XJ, lift up the doorsill trim on the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll find a channel under there that's about 1" square - ready-made for a wiring trunk (and matches the one down the driver's side, but the DS channel already has a harness in it. It's the front-to-back harness for lighting and speakers.)
I'd put the positive lead there. Also, I'd be careful about running it through the firewall - if you don't use a rigid post (to avoid running jacketed wire through a metal bulkhead,) then you want at least two layers of protection above and beyond the cable jacket itself (a rigid grommet and "spaghetti tube" can be considered a minimum - the tube can be sealed to the grommet using RTV, and the cable can be secured to the inside of the spaghetti tube in the same manner. This also helps to eliminate the potential for the cable to rub against the bulkhead in the first place.
The Anderson SB-series connector works well, with the SB175 being suitable for most winch applications. However, some winches with a much higher current draw should use the Anderson SB350 connector, instead.
If you like, hit me backchannel and I can help you design a setup. And, if you want, I can find the parts and assemble a kit for you - you'll still have to put it in, but the rest of the work will be done! (I can't put it in for you, I'm too far away...)
For the XJ, lift up the doorsill trim on the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll find a channel under there that's about 1" square - ready-made for a wiring trunk (and matches the one down the driver's side, but the DS channel already has a harness in it. It's the front-to-back harness for lighting and speakers.)
I'd put the positive lead there. Also, I'd be careful about running it through the firewall - if you don't use a rigid post (to avoid running jacketed wire through a metal bulkhead,) then you want at least two layers of protection above and beyond the cable jacket itself (a rigid grommet and "spaghetti tube" can be considered a minimum - the tube can be sealed to the grommet using RTV, and the cable can be secured to the inside of the spaghetti tube in the same manner. This also helps to eliminate the potential for the cable to rub against the bulkhead in the first place.
The Anderson SB-series connector works well, with the SB175 being suitable for most winch applications. However, some winches with a much higher current draw should use the Anderson SB350 connector, instead.
If you like, hit me backchannel and I can help you design a setup. And, if you want, I can find the parts and assemble a kit for you - you'll still have to put it in, but the rest of the work will be done! (I can't put it in for you, I'm too far away...)
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