achorlian

So I'm changing my shocks since I'm lifting 3.5 inches...

Time for the rear upper shock bolts to come out...they all break of course...

Drilled out the bolts and tried feeding new ones in through the top but there is not enough space BECAUSE there is a lip that has formed from the top from drilling into the metal..

Any tips on getting rid of the excess metal?

As most of you will know it's a tough spot to get into with most tools.

Much appreciated

XJlimitedx99

Just responded to this in the lift questions thread, please don't ask questions in more than one place.

Try a dremel.

achorlian

sorry..newb...was I supposed to ask it there or here?

XJlimitedx99

No worries, we've all been there. Either place is acceptable for a question like this. Probably would get more responses with a new thread.

moparado

I understand your issue and its a tough one.

As suggested, a dremel tool might work.
Use a small dia, cylindrical grinding stone with a long shank then try grinding the lip at an as extreme angle as possible to grind off the lip.

Only other thing i can think that might work is to use a sharp (and i mean 'new' carbide sharp) reamer a little smaller in diameter than the drill bit you used.
Theoretically, it would cut just enough of a larger dia. hole to get rid of the lip too.

investinwaffles

Yeah, I would probably grind it out with a dremel or "muscle" the bolt in there somehow.

XJeepCheep

Did you try to just use a hammer and punch to knock off the welded factory nuts? Then you can just use nuts bolts and washers.

ElMartillo

I'll recommend welding in bar pin eliminators and never deal with the problematic OEM design again.

samiam

Been there and done that! What I did was take a hammer and punch and knock out what is existing up there. Then Rough Country has flag nuts that you use that is so simple and easy...also not very expensive.

moparado

What did you use to try and fish the bolt with?
If it was very thin flexible wire or even string it won't get past the lip.

Just a thought.
Try using a thicker stiffer wire to fish the bolt through the hole.
That way you can maybe maneuver or jiggle the bolt past the lip better.

TRCM

If there ain't no room for a bolt, there sure ain't room for a reamer....


Might be able to use a deburring tool......but they are designed to be used from the other side of the hole tho

moparado

Notice i said this:
These reamers can be bought small enough to fit a dremel tool or large enough to fit a hand drill.
Serves the same purpose as a cylindrical grinding bit on a dremel tool though i think a grinding bit would be easier to control but take longer.

360

Drill out holes nice and loose with a 1/2 bit, tie a wire to the bolt a feed it through, you say you tried but I've done exactly that numerous times, go at it again it will work !

TRCM

straight reamer...ok, got it.........assumed tapered reamer as that's what most people have

TRCM

BTW, on mine, the bolts go in from the bottom, and the nut is up top....I just taped it (the nut) into a combination wrench, and tightened it up, then removed the wrench.