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Rear ends

Old 03-25-2014, 04:24 PM
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Default Rear ends

I plan on doing a 4.5 lift to my xj country it is going to be a DD winter as well as a mud toy and was wondering about the rear axles. Are dana rear ends worth it and how bad will a buffer axle as well as lets say 4.10 gears effect mpg and driveablility?
Old 03-25-2014, 04:54 PM
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4.10's will help your drivability and mpg as you will be going with a larger diameter tire. Most XJ guys frown upon the dana 35, glorify the dana 44 and settle with a 8.25 29 spline Chrysler rear as they are cheap and available. I have a guy I wheel with that loves his old school jeeps and swears by the none c clip dana 35 if your running under 35'' rubber. I will be keeping my 8.25 for now as most XJ guys on here that wheel there rigs hard say they are good for 35'' and under rubber.
Old 03-25-2014, 05:48 PM
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My major advice. Dont look just at the cost of the junk yard axle people tell you to get (F8.8 typically). Look at the overall cost, compared to say a D44 from a Cherokee.

By the time you add up the complete housing, brackets if needed, cutting/welding as needed, locker as needed, gears as needed, wheel spacers or chromoly shafts as needed, flange adapter as needed, brake lines etc, as needed.... Alot of time you find a D44 (even if 500$ up front) is alot less for a comparable axle and there is no chance of booty fabed perches and shocks mounts etc.
Old 03-25-2014, 05:52 PM
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Ford 8.8 does add up but it's a stronger axle than the 44 and comes with disc brakes.
Old 03-25-2014, 05:58 PM
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Chevy 14 bolts one of the strongest axle out there add with a old ford one ton front both are same bolt pattern
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Petervaz1
Ford 8.8 does add up but it's a stronger axle than the 44 and comes with disc brakes.
D44s can be found with disc and disc won't help much other than hopefully making it off the trail when you break an axle with a c-clip. And don't say 8.8s don't break because I've seen plenty, for that matter I've snapped a couple of my D60 shafts and they are 35 spline 4340 chrome-moly.

If you plan on running 35s or smaller the 8.25 is fine. Sure an 8.8 will hold 37s but what front axle in that width and bolt pattern can also handle 37s?
Old 03-25-2014, 06:10 PM
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Nothing is indestructible we all know that. I said the 8.8 is stronger than the 44. Finding a 44 around here is very hard let alone one with disc brakes
Old 03-25-2014, 07:57 PM
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It looks like I have to do some more looking and figuring haha thanks for all the suggestions I'm new to the off road scene I drive a sports car so not sure on a lot of this stuff haha
Old 03-25-2014, 08:02 PM
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I got a 31 spline 8.8 with disks from the junk yard for 100$ all my brackets and armor and perches added up to another 400. I'm happy with it though
Old 03-25-2014, 08:05 PM
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
My major advice. Dont look just at the cost of the junk yard axle people tell you to get (F8.8 typically). Look at the overall cost, compared to say a D44 from a Cherokee.

By the time you add up the complete housing, brackets if needed, cutting/welding as needed, locker as needed, gears as needed, wheel spacers or chromoly shafts as needed, flange adapter as needed, brake lines etc, as needed.... Alot of time you find a D44 (even if 500$ up front) is alot less for a comparable axle and there is no chance of booty fabed perches and shocks mounts etc.

It's only as expensive as you make it, you don't need a new Flange, a 1310 to 1330 u joint is half the price, spring perches are $5 each, I built my own shock mounts, brake line was another $10, I had just under $200 total, find an axle with the right gears in it.

Wheel spacers aren't needed, you won't notice the extra .750" on each side.
Old 03-25-2014, 08:56 PM
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A new flange is like $35. How much you spending on your conversion joints man?

Ah the D44 vs 8.8 debate. I will always say do whatever is cheaper and more readily available. Just grab an axle and go they're both great. I like the 8.8 for availability, discs, and the fact that it forces you to raise the shock mounts and use better perches. I like the D44 because its bolt in and doesn't have stupid C-clips

Seriously. Just go get an axle and go wheeling. Even a 29 spline 8.25. The D30 is the one you wanna worry about anyway
Old 03-25-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Atmos
A new flange is like $35. How much you spending on your conversion joints man?

Ah the D44 vs 8.8 debate. I will always say do whatever is cheaper and more readily available. Just grab an axle and go they're both great. I like the 8.8 for availability, discs, and the fact that it forces you to raise the shock mounts and use better perches. I like the D44 because its bolt in and doesn't have stupid C-clips

Seriously. Just go get an axle and go wheeling. Even a 29 spline 8.25. The D30 is the one you wanna worry about anyway

i think i spent like $13 on one at AAP
Old 03-25-2014, 09:39 PM
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Yikes. Don't know how much I trust that


On second thought I'd go 8.8. Some come factory with 4.10's and a posi. There. Just saved you a whole bunch of money on regearing and a whole bunch of time searching for a 4.10 D44
Old 03-25-2014, 10:28 PM
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For those wanting to do the Explorer 8.8 swap, the only advice I can give is get a good aftermarket diff cover with carrier adjustment bolts. These help address the weakest point of the 8.8 in high Tq applications. The diff carrier has a tendency to twist under high stress and tweak the carrier bearing caps. Those adjustment covers allow you to keep tension on the caps.

Last edited by Outlaw Star; 03-26-2014 at 05:33 AM.

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