s14unimog

I figured since cooling is such a often hit on topic here, that I would share some pictures from my recent radiator purchase and install. It's pretty common knowledge for what's on the market for the XJ and so I'm not really looking to get into the specifics on why I elected to go with Champion. Essentially, my primary motivator was their on-hand stock of an all aluminum 3-row (even though they didn't have stock on one without a built in transmission cooler - 5-speed owner here)

Here are a couple pictures. Overall its a great looking piece. I know a decent amount about TIG welding and can identify potential issues or signs of misguided practice, so I'd have to say, after a close review, I'm impressed overall. It should be common knowledge that most radiator companies aren't producing their own cores and the issues are most commonly surrounding the end tanks, attachment points, and general fitment. They should be scrutinized closely in these areas.




As you can see compared to the stock radiator, the difference is significant. What confuses me though, is why Chrysler didn't take full advantage of the space in this area, yet allow the room for a larger core depth. The obvious answer is cost but still, it's just comical considering they knew the 4.0 is such a hot running motor.





Aside from not being able to run my A/C, without surely overheating my truck, my radiator was ready to come out. The fins were simply disintegrating with any contact. I imagine this was the original unit from 1997 (just over 160k on the clock).




All said and done, the install was fairly painless. I had some trouble getting the mechanical fan back on, since the core is so much larger, but found that if I installed it prior to the core support panel and upper mounts on the radiator, I could rotate both the radiator and evap core forward enough to get it mounted. On that note, this was my first real look at my mechanical fan. Those things are practically junk. It's no wonder so many people change over to an electric fan setup - it's not the HP drain but the absolutely cost driven design of the thing. The cowling for it is just about as sad. I imagine they left that section out of the bottom so it could be installed, but damn it man. I imagine the suction power is significantly lower than if it was completely around the fan. Again, I imagine it was just too difficult to get in/out

Either way, the truck is running great now. I run my a/c in traffic and on the trail now and with this GA summer heat, it's finally a bit more enjoyable (if only my headliner wasn't coming down). For the rest of my system, it's all stock. I'm still running a 195*F thermostat and OE water pump. The truck can sit for about 10-15mins, with the A/C running wide open, in 90*F weather before it starts to creep over 210 (indicated) - and will tend to level off until I get moving again; dropping just below the 210 mark. I know now the real issue is the fans. I imagine once I get some shrouded electrics, she could run for days in the hot sun. Either way, this gets me back out there!

JK253

I'm glad yours worked out. My Champion would bottom out on its lower trans cooler fitting and wouldn't seat properly, plus the neck angle wouldn't allow me to get the damn cap on due to it being slammed so close up against the header. I wasn't very impressed, given the cost. Sold it and got a CSF instead, which fit like a glove.

Here's the cap, sitting loose on top. I was supposed to turn this clockwise somehow to seal it.

EMAXX620

I put in the 2 row from Champion and had a few minor adjustments to make also. The cap didn't fit right just like yours, so I used my old cap.

The main issue i had with mine was the fitting that goes to the trans lines would not reconnect. It simply wouldn't click into place. I had to file the fitting down quite a bit to get it to work. It seems to leak a little bit, but I haven't had time to fix it.

Other than that, it went fairly smooth. I didn't take out the mech fan, so it was a bit of a pain to get it in, but not impossible.

SeriousOffroad

I had one....started leaking at 13 months and couldn't get the Re-seller to return phone callls or emails.

Hope your's lasts longer.....but don't hold your breath.

sthon

I just installed one last week. To deal with the cap I just cut a notch off the radiator support. Didn't have any issues with the trans lines as I chose to only use the external cooler. Don't bother trying to reuse your existing upper and lower radiator hoses, if they've stretched or ballooned much getting a good seal on the aluminum is damn near impossible.

EMAXX620

SeriousOffroad, where did it start leaking at?

SeriousOffroad

Where the core was TIG'd to the end-caps.

s14unimog

Hmm... The fitting was bottoming out on what? I never ran into that on mine. As for the neck, I noticed that when I put all of mine back together, I needed to adjust the core support panel as forward as possible all while pulling the radiator back into the bay as much as possible. Mine was like yours when I just put is all back together quickly. You could slot your core mounts that connect those cushion mounts at the top and correct that easily.

Yeah, I guess I can't relate as I don't use those fittings with the AX-15. I actually took the Champion cap, and with a metal drift, curved the edges of the main stamped body inward to clear the core support where the longer edges have to rotate past.

That's unfortunate. If mine develops that issue, I'll TIG it up. Can you not on yours?

Just for the sake of replacing things while I was there, I replaced both lines, but I could imagine that being an issue too. Mine were ready to come out.

JK253

I think it's part of the fender, someone else had the same problem on NAXJA. Mine was even worse than that though. Even without that 90º on there, that nipple is way too close for all but the lowest-of-profile fittings.

NAXJA pic, not mine (mine was a little worse as the bend in the fitting went just beyond the metal lip)



When a part is specifically designed for my make and model, I shouldn't have to hack up the fender or the header panel to make it fit and work properly, considering the money I paid. I was already irritated from the bad ground connectors that caused two of my three e-fans to fail on the trail, the exploding stock radiator that resulted from that, having to be towed out of some gnarly terrain back to civilization (getting a nice ding in my windshield en route,) paying for a part of the tow truck to get me home and leaving me stranded for the rest of Memorial Day weekend. Then I ponied up $200 or whatever it was and waited almost a week only to finally get it in the mail and find that it wouldn't fit without judicious use of my angle grinder, which was 30+ miles away at my buddy's place anyway. And they never answered any of my e-mails, so I just sold the damn thing on JF and got a CSF 3-row instead which has been great.

The welds and finish quality also look way better on yours, plus it actually holds a reflection. Mine had none of these features.

s14unimog

Ya man, that is unfortunate - I hate it for ya. I don't recall that being an issue on mine, even though I'm not using those fittings, I still installed the barbs and simply put a vacuum cap over them in case I sold it later down the road to an A/T guy.

Do you recall if it came in a Champion Racing box? Mine actually showed up in a Lead Foot Racing box? Maybe they've changed some things?

JK253

It was definitely a Champion and not the Chinese 'American Eagle' knock-off...I made sure of that. Can't remember where I ordered it from though.

RWKHausSupply

I was given a American Eagle (the same company as Champion) thick 2 row for my Ultra4 race XJ. They said they dont sell the 2 row much any more cause everyone thinks the more rows the better. Long story short, 2 thick rows cools better then 3 if slow MPH typically, and 3 rows better if higher speed application.

For my application being both heavy crawling (ok as fast as we can though) and desert racing mixed in each event, the 2 thick row was recommended.

it was installed in nov of 2011. It cools a 4.7 10.5-11:1 compression, built motor. I run a flow cooler, 195deg t-stat and The Biggest concern, yet likely biggest help at cooling, a 1.3 bar rad cap.

The 1.3 bar cap can create Excessive cooling system pressure if allowed to overheat. And even with this heavy cap its never leaked or overheated past 195. Even on tracks where I am told the only thing to worry about are temps.

Even thru King of the hammers (Guarantee no one here has put their jeep thru this abuse unless you have done king of the hammers with it lol), and very crappy track like Glen Helen, as well as other trail rides with abuse I doubt 99% of the public could even imagine trying to do, it has yet to fail in any shape or form.

I love the American Eagle thick 2 row. I did have to notch the rad support rail to clear the cap though. Other then that, it bolted right in and I Love it.

SeriousOffroad

I scrapped it out. The end cap on the drives side would have to been cut off.