cherokeenation49

Hey guys, need some advice about adding lockers to my 89 jeep Cherokee. it has dana 35 and that's about I got right now. I need some help on a complete list of parts ill need to complete this project.

xjheep92

First step is to find a new axle. Don't wast money on the 35. Look for an 8.25, Ford 8.8, Dana 44

xjheep92

Or get a front locker and leave the rear open w

Atmos

we're just going to magically identify every part on your rig huh

maybe post a picture?

you probably have a dana 30 disconnect front. you've got the two worst axles ever put in a Cherokee. don't lock them or they will explode

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html

or better yet email this address and ask for your complete build sheet. it will tell you everything that your jeep left the factory with
http://www.jeep.com/wccsapp/universa...ull&category=U

rawk krawler

I personally have locked both an 89 and my 95 front and rear with lunchbox lockers.
I highly recommend this style of locker as you can run it without killing tires, but when you hit the pedal they are completely locked.
The 89 I locked (my fathers) has the vacuum disconnect d30, and a d35.
Mine has a d44 and disco d30.
I am converting to a non-disco d30 and will continue to be Locked front and rear.
My dad runs 33", 4.56, and lockers.... We are waiting on his 35 to blow up
I'd suggest getting yourself a 44 before locking rear, and I'd suggest a non disconnect 30 before front. Just the route I wish I had taken, eliminate the common fail points before upgrading.

If you don't want to swap either make a posi-lock system for to front end to cable operate your front end, if you go this route, please pm me I can give you my old system, if you pay for shipping.

I you use lunchbox lockers, all you need is the lockers, 75w-140, rtv and a few general tools.
Shouldn't take more than a few hours to lock both front and rear.
My dad used spartan lockers, I used lock-rites, and I'd recommend those, installation was a breeze

freegdr

Older dana 35s are non c clip there much stronger than c clip rears .The 30 front you have people don't give them enough credit. Getting a 96.5 and up 8.25 from a jy or donor xj would be better then lock it 29 splines are pretty stought .Id leave the front open every thing breaks even 1 tons...And yes coming from a guy that runs 38s on stock axles...

Dan91

Im pretty sure they are the same strength. Only difference is when you break a non c-clip 35 the tire stays on the axle.

freegdr

Id agree if there were more confirmations on that but all you hear about non c clips breaking . I ran my 35 with 38s no issues its even on another xj still rockin...

Dan91

Well, from a mechanical point of view, the axle shafts, ring & pinion, housing, tubes, bearings etc are all the same size and strength between the two.

freegdr

Agreed but statistics don't lie. Only difference way bearing mounts and way axles held in and spiders grab more axle .

Atmos

The lack of gearing makes all the difference. I've wheeled with a guy on stock axles and 39's. he'd never be able to get the tires spinning fast enough to break anything

Regardless. If you're getting a free locker for your d35 by all means use it. Please don't spend a single dime on it though. Especially when there's people like me who will give you a 27 8.25 for free. As for the disco 30 yeah you can solid shaft it. Please don't run a locked front with those tiny stock ujoints. I've watched it break and separate ball joints

I will never run a locked front end without full circle snap rings

srb531

i second that motion

freegdr

Agreed gearing makes big differenc.If it free run it but 8.25 should be in your future. At least...

cherokeenation49

also would these suggestions vary if its on 3in lift with 33s? or would they be the same no matter what?

ohio95xj

Not really. These suggestions definately apply. If you are for the rear, find an 8.25 in the near future. In the front, I would get rid of the vac disconnect