Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 02:33 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Big David
What are you trying to install that make the booster in the way?
I already pasted an address earlier to my build thread where the issue came up.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by WhiteDevil1311
Ive had to stand on the pedal to get stopped with assisted. Manual brakes work you just have to know how to use them. Im 33 and learned to drive in a manual brake manual steering 3 on the tree. Its all in the drivers habits
But there's a difference between a manual braking system set up for manual braking and a powered braking system with no power.

XJ's are not set up to work without a booster. This brilliant individual is going to kill someone.

Originally Posted by mountaineerjeff
I already pasted an address earlier to my build thread where the issue came up.
No one wants to read through your entire build thread to figure out wth is in your way when you could type a simple sentence and let them know.

Then again, you're also the same guy to make a big deal about not wanting anyone to know where you got your ebay headlights so I'm not suprised that you're being a pain in the ***.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 02:53 PM
  #48  
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Jeff, I wasn't trying to be a tool, I didn't see where you posted what you are trying to mod around.
Have you ever seen the guys '76 'Stang? How do you know it's junk? I personally like the was a '76 Mustang II Cobra looks.
https://www.google.com/search?q=jeep...cobra&tbm=isch


My dad had one his brother drug up from central FLA for him, I hit it one time with a baseball & 1/2 the body fell off. Seriously.

Lighten up man, brakes are something not to be taken lightly, even if it was a trailer queen & never saw a paved road. I'd hate to hear you were going down a mountain & your brakes didn't slow you enough to avoid a__________.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 02:54 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by mountaineerjeff
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/my-kinda-jeep-84018/index11/


Doesn't work.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:08 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by mountaineerjeff
I already pasted an address earlier to my build thread where the issue came up.
Yeah six pages after where you linked to. Why is it so hard to answer a direct question?
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #51  
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There is a difference mainly in tuning the brakes. Most manual brake vehicles were 4 wheel drums and there is no difference in manual or power assist drums. Im sure disc will work the same either way. Now power steering is one that requires a rack conversion.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #52  
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I guess I'll chime in, I have the Bendix 9 ABS system which features no brake booster in case of abs failure. And my ABS pump is shot, meaning it can't pressurize the system and make braking easy. So essentially right now my Jeep has manual brakes, that being said, I can stop, but only under 5 mph. Any Jeep that has the brake booster just taken out isn't fit to be driven. Even drag cars have brakes.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:28 PM
  #53  
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He wasnt removing it was modifying the booster or relocating. Drag cars do have brakes most are manual with chute others are powered. Most boosters are relocted for those cars
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:30 PM
  #54  
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I retract that, he did state removal.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:34 PM
  #55  
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Again... A boosterless hydraulic braking system is not a normally boosted system minus a single component. Power boosted systems make up for the lack of pedal travel with a fairly large master cylinder by applying vacuum boost (or air, or pumped hydraulic "hydroboost" etc). Without power assist you need to get into hydraulic design to determine how much pressure you need to develop and exert to apply brakes sufficiently. Off the top of my head a long *** master cylinder with a ****load of travel, or a brake pedal several feet long, would be the solution. Same way manual steering is not power steering minus a single component (different gearing).
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:37 PM
  #56  
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Manual brake equipped vehicles do have a long travel arm, He would have to convert completely. I have never upgraded manual brakes or downgraded power brakes. I still say if dude wants the space he must relocate it and do a ton of fabrication.

I think I read a thing or two wrong in this thread already.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:43 PM
  #57  
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All of this just to run dual throttle bodies on a straight 6.. lmao
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #58  
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The lever arm should be the only issue. The size of the master doesn't make any sense because the amount of fluid to press down the cylinders is the same, it just gets harder to push.

As far as the link, if it didn't jump to the right page it's because I'm on a cell phone.

But for those too cool to check out the issue, my intake manifold hits the brake booster.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:55 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by mountaineerjeff
The size of the master doesn't make any sense because the amount of fluid to press down the cylinders is the same, it just gets harder to push.
I would not recommend messing with your brakes if you don't know basic hydraulic principles.
Old Aug 29, 2014 | 04:01 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by torque062
All of this just to run dual throttle bodies on a straight 6.. lmao
There was never an "all of this" intention. It was simple either
A.yep no issue
B no you have to replace with a spacer or must move to firewall
C no one knows and I try it anyway

It was never a question of should I do it, or can I please have ur permission to modify my jeep. The fun thing is everything else that has been listed, I've done too. No power steering, without a manual box/rack, even with a smaller than stock wheel. I also street a locker which people say is unbearable, and all this while driving on drag radials.

I've long ago come to the conclusion that things people on here say is impossible or unbearable is simply just not quite as easy so they tend to cry about it. That's why I never listed why, or how, or where, or anything, just a specific, and apparently unanswerable question.

But since this thread has failed so graciously, I'm just gonna do it and get my own results. Now I will pull the vac line and drive around a bit before I make a more permanent change. And optimally I should relocate the booster.eventually but if it's driveable I'll probably just leave it.



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