I junkyard lifted my 87 years ago. It netted roughly 2 3/4" front 3 1/4" rear lift. I dropped the transmission case an inch plus did shocks, brake lines, away bars, etc.
What I did t do is adjust the angle of the axle. How do I know what shims I need and where do I get them?
How do I measure my jeep correctly to get an accurate measurement of my lift?
I'm running 30" tires on it IIRC
Oh, I get no vibrations driving.
What I did t do is adjust the angle of the axle. How do I know what shims I need and where do I get them?
How do I measure my jeep correctly to get an accurate measurement of my lift?
I'm running 30" tires on it IIRC
Oh, I get no vibrations driving.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Your wrong. Originally Posted by rctrav
Usually you don't shim the rear unless your using a SYE
You run shims with or without a Sye to point the pinion at the tcase yoke for the less driveline angle The only time you do not need shims is if you do a axle swap and have to add new spring perches then you rotate the pinion where you need it to be and weld on the new perches
Member
Quote:
You run shims with or without a Sye to point the pinion at the tcase yoke for the less driveline angle The only time you do not need shims is if you do a axle swap and have to add new spring perches then you rotate the pinion where you need it to be and weld on the new perches
Like i said Usually you don't need to shim your rear. Sorry i didn't get specific like with just a transfer case drop most I'd 90% don't need them. Yes i do no that if your not ruining a sye that you could shim it with the fat end of the shim facing towards the front will better your dive line angle. But like i said Usually not needed.Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
Your wrong. You run shims with or without a Sye to point the pinion at the tcase yoke for the less driveline angle The only time you do not need shims is if you do a axle swap and have to add new spring perches then you rotate the pinion where you need it to be and weld on the new perches
Cherokee Forum Vendor
With a slip yoke emilinator you want you pinion to point directly at the t case output or slightly below to make up for axle wrap under load. Without a slip yoke eliminator you want your pinion to be parellel to the tcase output or slightly less to make up for axle wrap under load.
so, just took the XJ back to Sears so they could fix the alignment they screwed up... it was pretty bad.
The tech showed me the machine's print out and he said the Axle is sitting back a bit from the lift and that they want to shim the control arms to push it forward.
is this necessary and is it something I can do on my own? the benefit of having them do it is that I can have them realign it.
The tech showed me the machine's print out and he said the Axle is sitting back a bit from the lift and that they want to shim the control arms to push it forward.
is this necessary and is it something I can do on my own? the benefit of having them do it is that I can have them realign it.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Shims won't push your front axle forward enough , You really need adjustable upper control arms to get your caster back into spec.Originally Posted by 2T2-crash
so, just took the XJ back to Sears so they could fix the alignment they screwed up... it was pretty bad. The tech showed me the machine's print out and he said the Axle is sitting back a bit from the lift and that they want to shim the control arms to push it forward. is this necessary and is it something I can do on my own? the benefit of having them do it is that I can have them realign it.
Quote:
is it really that necessary? Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
Shims won't push your front axle forward enough , You really need adjustable upper control arms to get your caster back into spec.
I threw this lift together when I was young n dumb and didnt care about the small stuff. Now I'm older and want it to work as best as possible.
CF Veteran
Quote:
To ensure proper steering angles and caster it is. I run adjustable uppers and lowers in my XJ. Ran them on my TJ also. I can tell you my suspension works extremely well. Some guys I wheel with are surprised how well my short arm works and they run longarmed TJ's.Originally Posted by 2T2-crash
is it really that necessary? I threw this lift together when I was young n dumb and didnt care about the small stuff. Now I'm older and want it to work as best as possible. Quote:
cool... time to do some googling for suggested adjustable control arms. Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
To ensure proper steering angles and caster it is. I run adjustable uppers and lowers in my XJ. Ran them on my TJ also. I can tell you my suspension works extremely well. Some guys I wheel with are surprised how well my short arm works and they run longarmed TJ's.

I need to find a relocation bracket for my track bar and aparrently my pitman arm is a little loose.
my luck I'll get this damn thing straight and squared away and have some sucker crash into me.
has anyone used Core 4X4 products?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-and-Lower-Adjustable-Front-Control-Arms-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-TJ-ZJ-/160900134503?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-and-Lower-Adjustable-Front-Control-Arms-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-TJ-ZJ-/160900134503?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
CF Veteran
Quote:
Never heard of them. They look okOriginally Posted by 2T2-crash
has anyone used Core 4X4 products? Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-and-Lower-Adjustable-Front-Control-Arms-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-TJ-ZJ-/160900134503?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
Quote:
this is an email a jeeper on another forum got from the company that makes them.Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
Never heard of them. They look ok
"Dear me,
Hey there, we do do all the fab work. All our arms are overbuilt, we use 1/4 DOM tubing with 1 inch B7 Hardened steel thread as well. Our arms come with a lifetime warranty for original buyer. We are also coming out with a extreme heavy duty
- core_4x4_fabrication"
hmmm