Possible Dual Stock Alternator Set-Up???
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Year: 2000
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Possible Dual Stock Alternator Set-Up???
I just bought a use 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic and I am getting a new audio system for it and I want to acquire a better and cheaper way to get more amps without having to brake the bank account. My system is going to require 105 AMPS and my alternator only puts out 117 AMPS which will only leave me with 12 AMPS left over. Obviously this is not going to cut it. My idea is to run two stock alternators like in the diagram below. I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out how to do this (help with wiring and if it is possible to build a bracket for this) I would appreciate it.
- The picture on top is my idea of how to do this.
- Bottom picture is the diagram of a stock 2000 Jeep Cherokee.
- The picture on top is my idea of how to do this.
- Bottom picture is the diagram of a stock 2000 Jeep Cherokee.
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it will not fit with the unibody "frame rail" where it is.
look into the Mean Green Alternator or a ZJ alternator. Those are about your only options
look into the Mean Green Alternator or a ZJ alternator. Those are about your only options
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What if I use the mounting for the original alternator to mount a custom plate to hold two alternators? Which will raise them both as high as possible and possibly tie into the A/C mounts like the picture below.
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I do yes. However. until you figure out how to mount 2 alt's it is not worth it. But really look into upgrading to a factory ZJ alt. And I dont think you will be pulling 105 amps constantly....
I run 2 RF amps. 1 for components(4 chan), 1 for subs(2 chan bridged). no issues with the ZJ upgrade....
I run 2 RF amps. 1 for components(4 chan), 1 for subs(2 chan bridged). no issues with the ZJ upgrade....
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Is the ZJ alternator a direct bolt in and what is the output? Can you please enlighten me on how to wire the two alts I believe that I can mount to two alts without to much problem I have access to a nice shop and know an excellent mechanic and steel fabricator/welder it shouldn't be to hard to do this.
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it requires you to notch the bracket a little.
but with a dual alt you need to split the charging system in half or you will have a 24v system..... That is the only real benefit(if any at all since the jeep is not 24v).
Basically What I have been trying to get at is run a high output alt. period.
If you need to run a second battery with an isolator if you are drawing to much power still. And THEN if you are STILL drawing to much power then run a dual alt for the second battery.
you can run one in place of the AC or make a customer bracket, then run an isolator for the batteries and place one alt for each battery.
with a single battery you have to split the entire electrical system. one alt runs X electrical system and charges battery. other alt runs X electrical system and does not charge battery.
but with a dual alt you need to split the charging system in half or you will have a 24v system..... That is the only real benefit(if any at all since the jeep is not 24v).
Basically What I have been trying to get at is run a high output alt. period.
If you need to run a second battery with an isolator if you are drawing to much power still. And THEN if you are STILL drawing to much power then run a dual alt for the second battery.
you can run one in place of the AC or make a customer bracket, then run an isolator for the batteries and place one alt for each battery.
with a single battery you have to split the entire electrical system. one alt runs X electrical system and charges battery. other alt runs X electrical system and does not charge battery.
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here is what you are really wanting to do:
The wiring diagrams show a few different ways to run dual batteries you can use a Isolator, a Solenoid, or a combination of the two:
1)Using a isolator which is maintenance free but does not allow you to tie the batts togther in case of a emergency. If you plan on using a isolator get one rated for 20 amps more than max alternator output. The isolator will equally charge both batts all of the time. Isolators are large diodes so you will have some voltage drop across them
1)Using a isolator which is maintenance free but does not allow you to tie the batts togther in case of a emergency. If you plan on using a isolator get one rated for 20 amps more than max alternator output. The isolator will equally charge both batts all of the time. Isolators are large diodes so you will have some voltage drop across them
Last edited by 96_xj; 02-05-2011 at 12:30 AM.
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and here are some other options:
and this is if you still want to run a dual alt(but you will need a second battery still)
2)Using a solenoid, which is the most flexible, allowing charging of the main batt only, charging both batts, and connecting both batts using the aux batt for power when the main is dead.The downside of using a solenoid by itself is thet both batts must be the same type so they have equial charge rates and wont draw current from one another. Solenoids need to be rated for continuous duty around 300 amps with a 600 amp surge capacity.
3))If you are already using a isolator in you system you should consider adding a solenoid into the system between the batt positive terminals. It will allow you to connect them in emergency situations or when drawing high amps.
and this is if you still want to run a dual alt(but you will need a second battery still)
If you want to run dual batts on dual alternators for seprate charging systems, first find a suitable mounting place for the aux. alternator. A few guys on the board have had success using the air pump brackets.Wiring is fairly easy and I suggest using chrysler parts this way you will have spares with you if needed.
Last edited by 96_xj; 02-05-2011 at 12:31 AM.
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Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
what about a capactior? i run two 1000watt amps to my kicker l7s.. no problem with an optima battery and a cap...
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