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Please review my dream build(s)

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Old 12-07-2013, 01:21 AM
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Default Please review my dream build(s)

Going to post my dream paper build to get it out of my head.
Theme = Expedition/Reliability/Right_the_first_time/Daily Driver

Please provide cost saving suggestions, hahaha.

~4" Lift
I've attached a zipped excel file displaying three options to achieve the ~4" lift.
I'd appreciate some major assistance here if possible.

Tire
This will be my DD.
I've put 10,000 miles on since June 2012.
Located in central virginia, so I expect minimal ice/snow.
Initially leaned AT KO for tread life, noise, less maintenance(?). Debating those now after realizing how little I drive.

1. 33x10.5 BFG KM2
2. 33x10.5 BFG AT KO


Wheel
15x8
1. Stock Eccos and spidertrax spacers (4.5" net backspacing)
2. Mamba MR1X (4.5" net backspacing)
3. AR-23 (3.75" net backspacing)

Axles
- Grabbing a Chrysler 8.25 or Ford 8.8 to replace my D35
- I have the AX-15, so gearing of 3.73 or 4.10 (prefer 3.73 using gear calcs but 4.10 D30 and Chrysler 8.25 sound easier to find).
- Leaning towards F/R Detroit Truetrac or R (truetrac) and F (e-locker)

I've attached a spreadsheet comparing axle costs. There doesn't appear to be an inexpensive route to go (JY 8.8 vs 8.8 EastCoastGears vs. JY Chrysler 8.25.
Please review my costs of these options.


Rear bumper
I'd like to incorporate the ability to add rotopax in the future to either the rear bumper or a roof rack. May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. Detours full tire carrier
2. Detours tailbone
3. JCR tire carrier
4. AJ Tanker
5. Dirtbound tire carrier
6. Hanson Tire Carrier

Front Bumper
May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. JCR Pre-runner

Sliders
In no order:
1. Detour
2. JCR
3. AJ
4. TNT

Steering
Whats necessary after ~4" lift and 33x10.5s?


Thanks for looking
Attached Files
File Type: zip
suspension.zip (9.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: zip
Axles.zip (8.8 KB, 1 views)

Last edited by MirageMobile; 12-07-2013 at 10:53 AM.
Old 12-07-2013, 09:37 AM
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U don't really need a 8.8 for 33's. the pumpkin housing are large that it is more likely to drag on stuff u drive over.

Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.

Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
Old 12-07-2013, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
U don't really need a 8.8 for 33's. the pumpkin housing are large that it is more likely to drag on stuff u drive over.

Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.

Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
Thanks, yes I read about pumpkin diameter. The 8.8 tempted me because of coming with rear disc brakes. I stated an e-locker would be placed in the D30. Yep, I included the conversion cost.

Thanks for the front axle tips.


So...true story? I assume most don't replace seals/bearing when swapping?

1. JY Chrysler 8.25 = $200
2. Detroit Truetrac = $600
3. Detroit TT install = $150
4. D30 gears to match = $300
5. D30 Truetrac = $400
6. D30 install = $150

total = $1800

Last edited by MirageMobile; 12-07-2013 at 10:26 AM.
Old 12-07-2013, 10:27 AM
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Where are u located? Often axles from junkyards in my area go for less than 50
Old 12-07-2013, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Where are u located? Often axles from junkyards in my area go for less than 50
Central Virginia. Craiglist has been ~200. I have not called a local JY yet but will to find out if $50-75 is the going rate.

Thank you
Old 12-07-2013, 05:31 PM
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Come buy my 8.8 and Dana 30 with 4.10's... I'll even sell ya my new set of 35's... wheels... and long arm setup... and install them so u can drive it back home...
Old 12-07-2013, 05:33 PM
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Axles down here for brake to brake are $200 on the 8.8's and Dana 30's stock... shop them parts out man... Every price u listed is more than I've found everything for... Also look at spartan lockers...

And the 8.8 is not a bolt in but it's jot hard at all with with a TnT truss or ruff stuff simple axle swap...
Old 12-07-2013, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
U don't really need a 8.8 for 33's. the pumpkin housing are large that it is more likely to drag on stuff u drive over.

Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.

Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
conversion kit? it needs a pair of shock mounts that can built with stuff from the scrap pile and a pair of spring perches that are cheap to buy and even cheaper to build.

i had $190 into putting a 8.8 under my last xj, paid $165 for the axle, the rest was in conversion ujoint and some 80-90w
Old 12-08-2013, 07:40 AM
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U used a conversion ujoint? I got a flange from a Ford Ranger in the junkyard... $15 and a $9 brake line that I found so i could just screw the lines together
Old 12-08-2013, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
U used a conversion ujoint? I got a flange from a Ford Ranger in the junkyard... $15 and a $9 brake line that I found so i could just screw the lines together
U got picture of that flange ?
Old 12-08-2013, 12:50 PM
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In all the 8.8 swap builds... I don't have one myself no... makes the driveshaft a bolt on... The explorer one won't work... 4 bolt pattern is right but takes a larger joint... ranger used same joint as a XJ...
Old 12-09-2013, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
U used a conversion ujoint? I got a flange from a Ford Ranger in the junkyard... $15 and a $9 brake line that I found so i could just screw the lines together
Yeah, my brake line bolted right uo.
1310 to 1330 ujoint was like $10 at advanced. They had it in stock.
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