Please review my dream build(s)
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: MO
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Please review my dream build(s)
Going to post my dream paper build to get it out of my head.
Theme = Expedition/Reliability/Right_the_first_time/Daily Driver
Please provide cost saving suggestions, hahaha.
~4" Lift
I've attached a zipped excel file displaying three options to achieve the ~4" lift.
I'd appreciate some major assistance here if possible.
Tire
This will be my DD.
I've put 10,000 miles on since June 2012.
Located in central virginia, so I expect minimal ice/snow.
Initially leaned AT KO for tread life, noise, less maintenance(?). Debating those now after realizing how little I drive.
1. 33x10.5 BFG KM2
2. 33x10.5 BFG AT KO
Wheel
15x8
1. Stock Eccos and spidertrax spacers (4.5" net backspacing)
2. Mamba MR1X (4.5" net backspacing)
3. AR-23 (3.75" net backspacing)
Axles
- Grabbing a Chrysler 8.25 or Ford 8.8 to replace my D35
- I have the AX-15, so gearing of 3.73 or 4.10 (prefer 3.73 using gear calcs but 4.10 D30 and Chrysler 8.25 sound easier to find).
- Leaning towards F/R Detroit Truetrac or R (truetrac) and F (e-locker)
I've attached a spreadsheet comparing axle costs. There doesn't appear to be an inexpensive route to go (JY 8.8 vs 8.8 EastCoastGears vs. JY Chrysler 8.25.
Please review my costs of these options.
Rear bumper
I'd like to incorporate the ability to add rotopax in the future to either the rear bumper or a roof rack. May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. Detours full tire carrier
2. Detours tailbone
3. JCR tire carrier
4. AJ Tanker
5. Dirtbound tire carrier
6. Hanson Tire Carrier
Front Bumper
May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. JCR Pre-runner
Sliders
In no order:
1. Detour
2. JCR
3. AJ
4. TNT
Steering
Whats necessary after ~4" lift and 33x10.5s?
Thanks for looking
Theme = Expedition/Reliability/Right_the_first_time/Daily Driver
Please provide cost saving suggestions, hahaha.
~4" Lift
I've attached a zipped excel file displaying three options to achieve the ~4" lift.
I'd appreciate some major assistance here if possible.
Tire
This will be my DD.
I've put 10,000 miles on since June 2012.
Located in central virginia, so I expect minimal ice/snow.
Initially leaned AT KO for tread life, noise, less maintenance(?). Debating those now after realizing how little I drive.
1. 33x10.5 BFG KM2
2. 33x10.5 BFG AT KO
Wheel
15x8
1. Stock Eccos and spidertrax spacers (4.5" net backspacing)
2. Mamba MR1X (4.5" net backspacing)
3. AR-23 (3.75" net backspacing)
Axles
- Grabbing a Chrysler 8.25 or Ford 8.8 to replace my D35
- I have the AX-15, so gearing of 3.73 or 4.10 (prefer 3.73 using gear calcs but 4.10 D30 and Chrysler 8.25 sound easier to find).
- Leaning towards F/R Detroit Truetrac or R (truetrac) and F (e-locker)
I've attached a spreadsheet comparing axle costs. There doesn't appear to be an inexpensive route to go (JY 8.8 vs 8.8 EastCoastGears vs. JY Chrysler 8.25.
Please review my costs of these options.
Rear bumper
I'd like to incorporate the ability to add rotopax in the future to either the rear bumper or a roof rack. May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. Detours full tire carrier
2. Detours tailbone
3. JCR tire carrier
4. AJ Tanker
5. Dirtbound tire carrier
6. Hanson Tire Carrier
Front Bumper
May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. JCR Pre-runner
Sliders
In no order:
1. Detour
2. JCR
3. AJ
4. TNT
Steering
Whats necessary after ~4" lift and 33x10.5s?
Thanks for looking
Last edited by MirageMobile; 12-07-2013 at 10:53 AM.
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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35 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
U don't really need a 8.8 for 33's. the pumpkin housing are large that it is more likely to drag on stuff u drive over.
Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.
Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.
Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: MO
Posts: 199
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
U don't really need a 8.8 for 33's. the pumpkin housing are large that it is more likely to drag on stuff u drive over.
Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.
Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.
Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
Thanks for the front axle tips.
So...true story? I assume most don't replace seals/bearing when swapping?
1. JY Chrysler 8.25 = $200
2. Detroit Truetrac = $600
3. Detroit TT install = $150
4. D30 gears to match = $300
5. D30 Truetrac = $400
6. D30 install = $150
total = $1800
Last edited by MirageMobile; 12-07-2013 at 10:26 AM.
#6
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
Posts: 17,836
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Come buy my 8.8 and Dana 30 with 4.10's... I'll even sell ya my new set of 35's... wheels... and long arm setup... and install them so u can drive it back home...
#7
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
Posts: 17,836
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Axles down here for brake to brake are $200 on the 8.8's and Dana 30's stock... shop them parts out man... Every price u listed is more than I've found everything for... Also look at spartan lockers...
And the 8.8 is not a bolt in but it's jot hard at all with with a TnT truss or ruff stuff simple axle swap...
And the 8.8 is not a bolt in but it's jot hard at all with with a TnT truss or ruff stuff simple axle swap...
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#8
U don't really need a 8.8 for 33's. the pumpkin housing are large that it is more likely to drag on stuff u drive over.
Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.
Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
Chrysler 8.25 is your best bet, it's a stout little axle that can easily stand up to 33's. however they don't even make e-lockers for those axles.
Plus it's direct swap in, while 8.8 axles aren't. Expect to pay 200 bucks to have a conversion kit welded on the axle to fit under your jeep.
Don't forget to include a steering spacer when u do your front bumper and use unibody tie-ins. It's very important.
i had $190 into putting a 8.8 under my last xj, paid $165 for the axle, the rest was in conversion ujoint and some 80-90w
#9
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
Posts: 17,836
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
U used a conversion ujoint? I got a flange from a Ford Ranger in the junkyard... $15 and a $9 brake line that I found so i could just screw the lines together
#11
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
In all the 8.8 swap builds... I don't have one myself no... makes the driveshaft a bolt on... The explorer one won't work... 4 bolt pattern is right but takes a larger joint... ranger used same joint as a XJ...
#12
1310 to 1330 ujoint was like $10 at advanced. They had it in stock.
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