Pitman Arm
I have a 93 XJ with a 4.5" lift. I'm installing the WJ to XJ front brakes and have the CavFab WJ Knuckle swap steering system on the way. The rep said I need to keep the factory pitman arm, but I read somewhere that someone else did this but used a pitman arm with a 4" drop. I asked the CavFab rep again (3 weeks ago) what I should do and haven't received a response.
The pitman arm is coming off because I'm installing a Redhead steering box. Everything up front is getting replaced. So I'll have to do a full axle and steering realignment.
I bought this rig in 2008 and I don't know what abuse the previous owner(s) did to this, so I'm replacing the arm regardless. Should I keep it at factory specs, or get a longer one, shorter one?
The pitman arm is coming off because I'm installing a Redhead steering box. Everything up front is getting replaced. So I'll have to do a full axle and steering realignment.
I bought this rig in 2008 and I don't know what abuse the previous owner(s) did to this, so I'm replacing the arm regardless. Should I keep it at factory specs, or get a longer one, shorter one?
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Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,515
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From: San Mateo, CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix, stock.
Drag link and track bar must remain parallel Since the track bar has a bend, draw an imaginary line from its two ends to serve as your parallel reference line. select pitman arm drop length to keep the lines parallel. I wager that the manufacture advice is correct, use your stock one, but if it causes them to not be parallel, then you need to select different drop link to make them parallel..
If your stock pitman arm is abused, it will show, being bent, or the ends worn i.e. the taper ruined. If it passes inspection it should be fine to use, but if you do want to replace it that is fine too, however install the old one to confirm if or if not the track bar and drag link are parallel or not, then buy a new one of correct drop as needed.
For my lifted jeep, prior owner had a drop pitman arm, I guess someone told him he needed it. steering was bad however as the drag link and track bar were not parallel. used straight piece of wood to show what pitman arm drop will be needed to make the drag link and track bar parallel, and ended up being a stock pitman arm Now they are parallel, and steering is a zillion times better.
So remember to make them parallel, but for track bar, because that bar has a curve in it you MUST draw an imaginary line from its two ends as your reference for making the drag link parallel to it. you can use string, a straight piece of metal or wood. The key is the straight line must be the line between the two end pivot points. also make sure there is no play in the trackbar bushing mount on the axle, this mount where the bolt goes through to secure the bushing can get ovaled out and once ovaled all the tightening in the world wont keep that bolt from moving. it can be repaired by welding or redrilling for oversized hardware, then tighten the heck out of it so it cant move again. once it gets loose and moves, the hole will get ovaled This is one of several bolts that should be checked, and rechecked for tightness periodically, specially after hard wheeling. If it gets loose the mount will be ruined if you keep driving that way on it.
I had to repair mine.
My 5.5 lift with 33x12.5 MT tires steers darn nice now. before it was wandering all around like a drunk after the bars close.
Remember.... Track bar and drag link are to be parallel. get what ever pitman drop you need to achieve this.
If your stock pitman arm is abused, it will show, being bent, or the ends worn i.e. the taper ruined. If it passes inspection it should be fine to use, but if you do want to replace it that is fine too, however install the old one to confirm if or if not the track bar and drag link are parallel or not, then buy a new one of correct drop as needed.
For my lifted jeep, prior owner had a drop pitman arm, I guess someone told him he needed it. steering was bad however as the drag link and track bar were not parallel. used straight piece of wood to show what pitman arm drop will be needed to make the drag link and track bar parallel, and ended up being a stock pitman arm Now they are parallel, and steering is a zillion times better.
So remember to make them parallel, but for track bar, because that bar has a curve in it you MUST draw an imaginary line from its two ends as your reference for making the drag link parallel to it. you can use string, a straight piece of metal or wood. The key is the straight line must be the line between the two end pivot points. also make sure there is no play in the trackbar bushing mount on the axle, this mount where the bolt goes through to secure the bushing can get ovaled out and once ovaled all the tightening in the world wont keep that bolt from moving. it can be repaired by welding or redrilling for oversized hardware, then tighten the heck out of it so it cant move again. once it gets loose and moves, the hole will get ovaled This is one of several bolts that should be checked, and rechecked for tightness periodically, specially after hard wheeling. If it gets loose the mount will be ruined if you keep driving that way on it.
I had to repair mine.
My 5.5 lift with 33x12.5 MT tires steers darn nice now. before it was wandering all around like a drunk after the bars close.
Remember.... Track bar and drag link are to be parallel. get what ever pitman drop you need to achieve this.
Last edited by robsjeep; May 4, 2023 at 11:38 AM.
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