Anyone out there have any info on installing an ox locker in the 8.25?
I ran into a big problem. I cannot reinstall my axle shafts after the locker and ring have been installed. It seems that the 4.56 ring is too thick for the center shaft and its dowel plate to come out. I'd have to grind at most 4 ring teeth or maybe at the least one. This darn axle requires internal backlash adjustment with threaded adjustment plates rather than shims.
Thank you for any responses.

 

I have the OX locker front and rear.. On the 4.56 ring gear for the c8.25 I had to do a little grind on a few, but just a little bit, enough to get the center pin in.

look at pic

 

^ Just grind 1 tooth a touch, had to do it when I had my 4.56 gears & ARB installed in my 8.25. Usually don't have to grind much, just a little.....

 

An OX locker with the electric solenoid switched on the dash is quick to engage or disengage and is considerably cheaper then a ARB. OX doesn't require an onboard compressor and never leaks

Best locker one can put on an XJ!






Cable routing

Cable routing

 

I love mine. And if it were to fail, you can still manually engage/disengage. OX is awesome.

 

Send it back and get a Detroit locker.

 

Switchable lockers go on when you need them, Detroit locker's engage when you don't - on the street they call it tire scrub
BEST comment from a spotter at the start of Rubican Trail: "your locker is your best friend - for 90seconds "

Don't argue - meet me at the bottom of Lippencott Road and I'll demonstrate - If you can wheel it

 

I despise the 8.25 would much rather have shims.

I too had to grind a tooth for 4.88s mines welded solid alot . It does scrub on the street but works incredibly amazing off road.

 

Detroit lockers always work when you need them I have put thousands of miles on them in street vehicles and they work great in a rear axle of a street driven vehicle. A selectable locker is no use at all on a street vehicle, it's either open or fully locked, I don't wan't either one of those options.

 

I'd push a Detroit or grizzly over any product that has wires cables or air hoses hooked to it.

 

A good rational discussion about the advantages and disadvantages of the different available lockers
This man sells, installs, and wheels what he sells - he is an expert in his field unlike the narcistic ramblings contradicting him below

 

It is true that air lines for an ARB locker are a difficult installation on an XJ. Routing a cable from the diff to the cab is equally challenging, the best installation I've seen on an XJ, located the actuator where the center console is located, which diminished the appearance of the interior. However, a short cable routed up and out of the way to a solenoid, allowed the new wires to piggy-back on the existing factory wiring harness. With this combination, everything is tucked up and out of the way of what the Jeep is going over on the trail.

 

Definitely ways to do it.

The cable running the pto on my dump truck is one of the only things to fail.. it only fails when the truck is on a long load it's a sick feeling when it comes back loaded
that's time and money flying out the window.
Othere than that truck has had one clutch and 2 injectors I've done brakes about 10 times. Truck has 1.4million miles. Air and cable lare almost always culprit every year.

that is one if the reasons I KISS everything. Keep it stupid simple. Do I even need this or is want taking over

Dirt,diesel, and iron put food on my table.

 

Thanks - and putting food on the table is important. I wonder if you couldn't use wires and a solenoid on you dump truck to replace or partially replace the suspect cable like OX does ? If not, I wouldn't give up on finding a better way to rout it.

 

Thanks for the honest statement about the tire scrub. A lot of people just deal with it, though my wife wouldn't. And as stated in the video, a Detroit locker isn't the best thing to have going over snowy passes on pavement on the way to wheel in Death Valley too. I posted the video so people can see the advantages and disadvantages of each one and make up their own mind. What works for one, may not for another.

The 8.25 is a good diff esp. when compared with the Dana 35 that Chrysler also offered. Ironically, the Dana could be had with a limited slip, but it isn't as stout as an 8.25. Chrysler designed the 8.25 for smaller ratios, I believe the towing package came with a 3.73. So, getting a 4.88 in one is well past the engineering considerations of the original designers. The axels were designed to turn much lighter tires as well. The inertia of a 36# 235/75/r15 is much less than a 65# 35" tire. It's too their credit that you're not twisting axels. I believe Beeping Jeep converted to Ford axels - you can view his conversion on you tube. But if you can wheel on what you already own - more power to you - and time and money