Driving down the road I make a turn and I step on it to show off to some friends and my oil drops to 0 and the check gages light comes on and I let off the gas and it all goes back to normal. What makes the oil drop like that? What do I have to do to fix it? Help

 

what is the oil level? is it low enough to when you turn it sloshes to one side and sucks air?

Did it only do it this one time? does it happen hot at idle?

 

It runs just above 40psi and it will drop when my foot hit's the floor to show off and it will drop even just taking off normal when the rpms don't get above 3500

 

I have the same problem. I drove about 20 miles the other day and everything was fine. About the last three miles was all uphill and my oil idiot light went crazy like a strobe light. I know my oil is full because I just changed it and nothing was leaking out. It also came on yesterday went I pulled out from a stop in second gear.

Im also intrigued in the solution. I was thinking of just replacing my oil pump and pressure sender hoping that one was bad. Mines a '94 with 180k.

 

Yahoo mines a 97 with 255 on it. I changed all that and it still does it.

 

just got a new oil pressure sensor. I figured for the $13 it was at least a place to start. Ill update when I drive it a bit with my results.

 

Now I can be sitting at a light and I will have no oil pressure, and it will run just fine. Help before my motor blows I don't have money for that with having a kid with a heart problem

 

ok got to ask have you checked the wiring on the oil presure sending unit? mine comes loose every so offten and causes mine to freak out. also are you still getting oil inthe valve cover check to see if oil is coming out of the vents. and is there any ticking coming from the engine?

 

ok so it drops off at hot idle? get it hot to where its dropping off oil pressure and hook it up to a manual pressure gauge and see what you're actual reading is.

what oil and filter are you running?

how many miles on the oil?

mine was dropping off to20 psi going down the highway warm and then would bounce back to 50 psi and it was the sending unit,

 

No ticking or anything like that and it has about 1500 mile on oil change, and a fram filter.

 

Fixed it's the oil pressure sending unit about a 30 dollar fix the old one broke coming off

 

dont use fram they use cardboard in there filters and they suck get a purolator or wix much better design no cardboard caps man all steel and purolator has much more surface area of there filtering material which means more capacity and there valves for the oil are stamped in the steel and there only about 5$ tops (ur paying for a piece of S**t never jump on the band wagon because you see that stupid commercial before u slam def. dont fram it but good luck to u my friend

 

and if u dont believe me heres my evidence http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

 

Fram Extra Guard PH8A

This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are bonded in place using a thermal adhesive. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap. In practice these seem to leak, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you use this filter and have a noisy valve train at startup, the filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak when they should be closed. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.
The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin-looking backplate. There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
Exploded view and backplate:

Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.13 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.00 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.38 inchesCartridge Pleats34Cartridge End Cap TypeCardboardAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded plasticElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length47.5 inchesElement Width4.06 inchesElement Surface Area193 square inchesShell Thickness0.015 inchesBackplate Thickness0.089 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubber

 

Purolator

Purolator has been around since the dawn of oil filters. The first original equipment automotive oil filter application was for the Chrysler Six back in 1923. That filter was called a "Purolator" (pure oil later). They also claim to have produced the first full-flow oil filter in 1943, the first pleated paper filter in 1946, and the first spin-on oil filter in 1955.
Premium Plus L30001


Left to Right: Motorcraft, Purolator Pure One, Purolator Premium Plus
Here is a fairly well designed filter, especially for the price. One odd thing about Purolator's filters is a string that is always wrapped around the filter element. I assume that this is there to hold the element in place while the glue in the end caps cures. Of all the Purolator-based filter I tested, there was one (the ProLine) that had filter element damage from this string. It was only one of the ten or so Purolator filters disassembled. Even though the element was crushed a bit, it was not ripped.
The Purolator filter elements generally have the highest surface areas out of all the filters in their price range (and in general). This filter cartridge has an impressive surface area of 316 sqin. It features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a nitrile rubber diaphragm-type anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the seal between the backplate and the cartridge. The bypass valve is stamped right into the bottom end cap of the cartridge, so it is all one piece.
Sometime before 2008, the cartridge seems to have changed slightly. The bypass valve moved from the front to the back of the cartridge. The shape of the plate at the front is slightly different, but not in any obviously meaningful way.

1999 Purolator on the left, 2008 Purolator on the right
The telltale sign for a Purolator filter are: 8 medium-sized holes for the oil inlet and nothing but a black (or orange for the Pure One) diaphragm to be seen through them. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the spring for the bypass valve.
Exploded view and backplate:


Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.13 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.25 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.63 inchesCartridge Pleats51Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steel, with bypass valve in backAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steelElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length79.0 inchesElement Width4.00 inchesElement Surface Area316 square inchesShell Thickness0.011 inchesBackplate Thickness0.12 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubber