NP242 needs SYE/Driveshaft help

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Nov 29, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
I've recently installed a RE 3.5" lift kit with full leafs on my 99 XJ and now I have pretty noticeable vibrations in the driveshaft. I want to put a SYE and new DS on but after 2 days of searching online I've found that almost all of the Heavy Duty kits all say they are for the NP231 only. I found the Iron Rock hack-n-tap kit and am leaning towards doing that and ordering the DS they offer as well. I don't live near any JYs so the cost of a new DS is not that bad considering the gas & time it would take me to get a used one and the cost of rebuilding it.

Am I missing anything or are there really not many options for a SYE on a NP242?

also, I've already tried a 1" tc drop with minimal benefit
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Nov 29, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #2  
You can only do a hack and tap on the np242.
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Nov 29, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #3  
Thanks! Do I have to worry about spline count on the yoke or are all 242s on the XJs the same?
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Nov 29, 2012 | 12:45 PM
  #4  
Quote: You can only do a hack and tap on the np242.
Not true-- Tom Woods has a main shaft replacement. Its is not the HD type, but it does come with a DC Custom Driveshaft for $470.
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Nov 29, 2012 | 12:56 PM
  #5  
Or a HnT for roughly $90...
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Nov 29, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #6  
Quote: Not true-- Tom Woods has a main shaft replacement. Its is not the HD type, but it does come with a DC Custom Driveshaft for $470.
Thanks for correcting me. But for that price you can pickup a np231 with a 4:1 kit...
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Nov 29, 2012 | 01:27 PM
  #7  
Quote: Not true-- Tom Woods has a main shaft replacement. Its is not the HD type, but it does come with a DC Custom Driveshaft for $470.
tom wood's 242 kit is a stock mainshaft that he "hacks and taps" on a bench then sends to you. he also charges a core. i ran a "hack and weld" 242 sye using a 3103-27CV yoke. worked great.
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Nov 29, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #8  
Hack & weld? I don't trust my drill skills either.LOL.
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Nov 29, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #9  
Use a ruler to draw a line thru the center, use splines to make sure you have a straight line that passes thru the exact center of the shaft. Make another, creating a perfect X.

X marks the spot to drill..
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Nov 29, 2012 | 04:02 PM
  #10  
Or just leave it idling in reverse as you *carefully* drill. Will hit center every time. Same trick to use when trimming the output splines with a side grinder and cutoff wheel. Idling in reverse and you get a perfect slice.
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Nov 29, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #11  
Quote: Hack & weld? I don't trust my drill skills either.LOL.
broke the tap inside the shaft and said **** it.

Quote: Or just leave it idling in reverse as you *carefully* drill. Will hit center every time. Same trick to use when trimming the output splines with a side grinder and cutoff wheel. Idling in reverse and you get a perfect slice.
idk why people keep saying theres some voodoo magic about leaving the shaft spinning and the drill automagically finds center. it was no easier then using a center punch and drilling without it spinning.
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Nov 29, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #12  
a 4" lift on my 98 w/the 242 caused bad vibes too,i did the iron rock h n t , w/a new driveshaft done by a local shop. works great .
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Nov 29, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #13  
Quote: Thanks for correcting me. But for that price you can pickup a np231 with a 4:1 kit...
Yeah, I didn't say it was cheap...
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Nov 29, 2012 | 05:53 PM
  #14  
Hey thanks for all the help everyone! I'm pretty sure I'll be going with the IRO Hack'n'tap kit and just order the driveshaft they offer at the same time. $250 for a new DS is a pretty good deal from what I could find. Only thing I'm worried about is drilling the output shaft and tapping it without breaking something off inside the shaft. I drilled and tapped the steering knuckles on my old XJ cuz I found the brake mounting holes were stripped, so I'm pretty sure I can pull it off as long as I'm careful and don't try to rush things. Plus I like taking my 4.5" grinder to things and saw the write-up about having the shaft spinning to get a square cut. I'll probably get the drill guide/jig dealy from IRO too just to be on the safe side for the drilling.

Any other tips/trick for the IRO hack'n'tap would be much appreciated, and thanks again everyone!
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Nov 29, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #15  
Thought of another question: Since the lift kit I just put on is new should I let the springs settle a bit before I do the H'n'T? I'm worried that if I do it before it settles and it decides to settle a lot, the measurements for cutting will have been off and the new DS won't have enough compression room on the slip joint. So should I worry about that and if so, how long should I wait for things to settle out? I've thrown all my tools and a bunch of heavy stuff in the back to give it some weight and help things settle a bit...
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