I've recently installed a RE 3.5" lift kit with full leafs on my 99 XJ and now I have pretty noticeable vibrations in the driveshaft. I want to put a SYE and new DS on but after 2 days of searching online I've found that almost all of the Heavy Duty kits all say they are for the NP231 only. I found the Iron Rock hack-n-tap kit and am leaning towards doing that and ordering the DS they offer as well. I don't live near any JYs so the cost of a new DS is not that bad considering the gas & time it would take me to get a used one and the cost of rebuilding it.
Am I missing anything or are there really not many options for a SYE on a NP242?
also, I've already tried a 1" tc drop with minimal benefit
Am I missing anything or are there really not many options for a SYE on a NP242?

also, I've already tried a 1" tc drop with minimal benefit
Thanks! Do I have to worry about spline count on the yoke or are all 242s on the XJs the same?
Member
Quote:
Not true-- Tom Woods has a main shaft replacement. Its is not the HD type, but it does come with a DC Custom Driveshaft for $470.Originally Posted by sthon
You can only do a hack and tap on the np242.
CF Veteran
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Thanks for correcting me. But for that price you can pickup a np231 with a 4:1 kit...Originally Posted by Jamison
Not true-- Tom Woods has a main shaft replacement. Its is not the HD type, but it does come with a DC Custom Driveshaft for $470.
CF Veteran
Quote:
tom wood's 242 kit is a stock mainshaft that he "hacks and taps" on a bench then sends to you. he also charges a core. i ran a "hack and weld" 242 sye using a 3103-27CV yoke. worked great.Originally Posted by Jamison
Not true-- Tom Woods has a main shaft replacement. Its is not the HD type, but it does come with a DC Custom Driveshaft for $470.
CF Veteran
Use a ruler to draw a line thru the center, use splines to make sure you have a straight line that passes thru the exact center of the shaft. Make another, creating a perfect X.
X marks the spot to drill..
X marks the spot to drill..
Senior Member
Or just leave it idling in reverse as you *carefully* drill. Will hit center every time. Same trick to use when trimming the output splines with a side grinder and cutoff wheel. Idling in reverse and you get a perfect slice.
CF Veteran
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broke the tap inside the shaft and said **** it.Originally Posted by Big David
Hack & weld? I don't trust my drill skills either.LOL.
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idk why people keep saying theres some voodoo magic about leaving the shaft spinning and the drill automagically finds center. it was no easier then using a center punch and drilling without it spinning.Originally Posted by diskman
Or just leave it idling in reverse as you *carefully* drill. Will hit center every time. Same trick to use when trimming the output splines with a side grinder and cutoff wheel. Idling in reverse and you get a perfect slice.
Member
Quote:
Yeah, I didn't say it was cheap...Originally Posted by sthon
Thanks for correcting me. But for that price you can pickup a np231 with a 4:1 kit...
Hey thanks for all the help everyone! I'm pretty sure I'll be going with the IRO Hack'n'tap kit and just order the driveshaft they offer at the same time. $250 for a new DS is a pretty good deal from what I could find. Only thing I'm worried about is drilling the output shaft and tapping it without breaking something off inside the shaft. I drilled and tapped the steering knuckles on my old XJ cuz I found the brake mounting holes were stripped, so I'm pretty sure I can pull it off as long as I'm careful and don't try to rush things. Plus I like taking my 4.5" grinder to things and saw the write-up about having the shaft spinning to get a square cut. I'll probably get the drill guide/jig dealy from IRO too just to be on the safe side for the drilling.
Any other tips/trick for the IRO hack'n'tap would be much appreciated, and thanks again everyone!
Any other tips/trick for the IRO hack'n'tap would be much appreciated, and thanks again everyone!
Thought of another question: Since the lift kit I just put on is new should I let the springs settle a bit before I do the H'n'T? I'm worried that if I do it before it settles and it decides to settle a lot, the measurements for cutting will have been off and the new DS won't have enough compression room on the slip joint. So should I worry about that and if so, how long should I wait for things to settle out? I've thrown all my tools and a bunch of heavy stuff in the back to give it some weight and help things settle a bit...

