Vincenza V

It is definitely hollow from what I remember (track bar). So are you saying they can be flex or something? I'm not smashing this thing into rocks or anything right now. Just DD and some fire roads that lead to great fly fishing spots.

BNJeepsta

I just noticed you're using RC X flex arms. I ran those for a little while till I got tired of replacing the "flex" joints. Check the joints and make sure they aren't junk.

Vincenza V

double post, dough!

Vincenza V

I actually checked those joint about two weeks ago, when removing the arms to do the caster adjustment at home. I stuck a BIG center punch through them and manipulated the joint. They were firm. I had to really pull the punch hard to get them to move around. That is a great suggestion none the less!

I'm getting less excited about having RC stuff...

BNJeepsta

You wheel and you learn man. I would definitely get a good alignment and go from there.

EvstaG

5* caster isn't too bad on a lift that high I don't think- 6.5* is stock IIRC, but generally you'll get some driveshaft vibes if you go that much caster on a lift; a good alignment is definitely necessary, also because you did replace the tie rod- the GC tie rods are supposed to be the same, but guys often get alignments after replacing that as well (might affect toe-in).
I wouldn't get rid of the stabilizer; maybe for diagnostics, but it doesn't hurt anything being there. I found an increase in road vibes when I removed the stabilizer to test it out. ( stock height at the time, on a bumpy gravel road)

Vincenza V

I have had MULTIPLE alignments. All after the lift. Maybe two a year by different people to try and fix this handling issue. I'm in a new state and will be using another shop. I'm not to optimistic about this one either.

I'm not sure what number I should have the alignment shop aim for Thursday. Would it be safe to have them stay in the stock range? Anyone have those numbers handy if so?

Vincenza V

I agree on the steering stab. I will try to remove it to help in the troubleshooting. It may reveal a glaring problem otherwise hidden?

EvstaG

I didn't read that you had it aligned already- and I doubt the steering stab will reveal any glaring issues, it's simply a fluid damper that reduces vibrations, but just might help that little bit. You might have to start looking further back in the steering set-up under the assumption that your TRE's and other front end components are in good repair.

Edit: Another thing I just considered.. You've had multiple alignments, and the alignment tech changed something each time.. If it was done right the first time, there should be nothing to alter the second and third times you went to the shop for an alignment. Brings up a couple questions

Vincenza V

I hear what you say about the alignments. But the other thing to consider is maybe the problem lurks elsewhere. Few shops will turn down money in doing an alignment, whether it needs it or not. If they set it up on the machine, they will just do the rest. I have my alignment sheets somewhere. Saved each one. If I find them, I'll post them

BNJeepsta

You said you did ball joints on the drivers side, did you check the passenger side? Also, when you changed to the Durango box, did you use the crappy spacer or get a better one? Are the bolts tight for the steering box? Are there any cracks in the unibody rails around the box? If all that checks out, could be a crappy box. Reman boxes aren't always 100%.

Vincenza V

I did check the passenger side ball joints. I actually replaced the lower or upper, whichever one you HAVE to remove first. I forgot. The other passenger balljoint seemed fine when I pried on it with a large crowbar, but maybe that's not a good enough test.

I used the thick C-rock spacer. I check the unibody area before putting the spacer on (with a bright flashlight) and it was solid. I used grade 8 strength bolts/washers/nuts. They are tight. I used nylock washers.

I was thinking what if the box was bad too, but the handling issue was exactly the same, with the OEM box. The only reason I replaced the OEM one was my old one was leaking. I thought it was worn and causing the handling issue, but after doing the Durango swap, and feeling no difference in it-I think the only issue was the leak in the old box.

BNJeepsta

Weeellll **** me then! Haha I would definitely try the stock pitman arm. Do you know anyone with a different track bar you can try out?

Vincenza V

"Do you know anyone with a different track bar you can try out?"_Great idea, sadly no. I am the solo XJ owner I know.

I will do the swap out of the pitman arm for sure. Does the picture I posted look like the drag link relationship will improve doing so?

I am going to look at the track bar more closely this weekend. Once the snow stops.

I wonder if I need to adjust the NAPA durango box? I mean, it wasn't designed for a Cherokee after all....????

BNJeepsta

Adjusting the box may help, it's definitely worth a try. Your angles don't look too bad but, I think the stock arm will be the better alternative.