Originally Posted by Lowrange2

Sounds an aweful lot like bump steer to me.

Define, "setup correctly".

No, that's not normal.

What do your steering angles look like?

Originally Posted by Vincenza V

It is a 4.5" Control arm drop bracket, on RC x-flex SA's, RC track bar and bracket, drop pitman arm.

Good to hear i's not normal. Beginning to lose all hope in this thing. I have an appointment Thursday to have the alignment checked for Caster. I did the "check it yourself with the diff cover" thing and it may be too little Caster? I got 5* positive I think.

I do have the stock steering, but added the grand cherokee tie bar because my old one was shot. But since the is only thicker, and doesn't change the angle of the dangle, basically-yes-stock steering. I added a NAPA reman'd Durango steering gear and C-rok spacer. Here is a list of all the steering/suspension replacements I have done. I did this all myself (Shadetree mechanic-Level 3(Lol)). This is my only experience with owning 4wd. I don't have any buddies with lifted toys to compare this XJ to.

Sidenote, the steering is really weird in that it seem that you are consciously counter steering. I seem to have to make an awful lot on minute corrections, vs. any other vehicle I've driven. I'll try an find a picture of my steering angle to track bar relationship. Last time I posted it up on here if I remember correctly, people said it wasn't that bad from what they could see from the pictures. This has been like this since I lifted it in the end of 11'. I have heard from some that at 4.5" the stock steering is near it's max as far as angles go. But PM'ing others that have done UTK upgrades, the didn't notice a huge improvement/difference on the street (Where mine spends 90% of it's lift). I just haven't heard enough of the testimonies to spend the $300+ to do it for a DD.

Cherokee suspension/steering work done:

10/19/2011
-New Zone short arm suspension lift
-New RC drop track bar and bracket for 4-6” lift
-New RC steering stabilizer
-New RUK Development 1” poly spacer for front coils
-New IRO slip yoke eliminator for rear drive shaft. Double Cardan drive shaft included
-New RC X-flex adjustable front upper/lower control arms
-New Sway bar bushing/poly
-New Sway bar end links to fit lift
-New RC control arm drop brackets to allow lower control arms to be near parallel (stock config.)

10/31/2011
-New Moog tier rod ends, adjustment sleeve, and drag link

11/10/2011
-New IRO 6 degree shims for aligning rear axle to new double cardan drive shaft requirement
-New Falken Wildpeak 31” tires

5/5/12
-New Driver side upper/lower ball joints, Mevotech.
-New RC dropped pitman arm for fit dropped track bar angle.

8/14/13
-New rear Rubicon Express rear leaf springs (3.5”, to add to the 1-2” adjustable lift rear extended shackle, to achieve 4.5” lift height
-New Bilstein 5100 shocks (made for lifted vehicles, specified for my lift height)

12/20/2013
-New Driver Side-Axle to Upper Control Arm axle-side bushing (need to do passenger)
-New rear shackle relocation boxes (for optimum 45* rear shackle angle)
-Remanufactured Durango steering box at 160K miles
-New DS upper axle housing bushing

1/10/14
-New Timken DS/PS Wheel hub bearings assemblies.
-New PS wheel U-joint Moog

Originally Posted by freegdr

Bigger tire are gonna increase this also. jm2cw..

Originally Posted by kirknd4spd

They can, but I have no bump steer on 35's with 1 ton steering and no steering stabilizer.

I'd start with an alignment and put the stock pitman arm back on. My MJ drove fine with stock steering at 4.5" of lift, also on 31's (crappy RC lift with RE UCAs and RE track bar).
I'd ditch the steering stabilizer too, it does absolutely nothing if the steering is set up right.

Originally Posted by Vincenza V

BNJeepsta-I can definitely try the stock pitman arm, I did save it. That is a simple swap.

I have also heard, well after I bought the RC stuff that it is crap. I did have the heim joint fail after 2-3 months. They replaced it and acknowledged they had a design flaw that was since fixed. I've looked at it since while having someone turn the steering wheel. I haven't seen any motion on it since. Is it still crap? How can it be bad if the joints aren't moving? Just trying to understand it from a scientific mindset. I hate when people bash by association without actually having experience with a certain brand and part. Not trying to be adversarial, just trying to understand before I throw more money at something to have the same effect.

I do have a rocking Left to Right sensation when hitting bumps, so maybe it's moving but I can't see it?