I'm putting on a RE 3.5 Super-Ride lift soon and I can't decide which tires to put on. I've preemptively trimmed my fenders a tasteful amount (keeping lip-lines) so I know if I bump stop correctly I can fit 33x10.50s but that opens up a can of worms with re-gearing and such. My main problem is I love my factory steel 5-spoke wheels! I really want to go with 32s but then it'd have to be 11.50 and and I'd most likely be rubbing the LEAF SPRINGS in the back.

I've read that since RE uses the tubular control arms, rubbing at full lock isnt as much of an issue as it would be. However does anyone know if I can keep the stock wheels and run 32x11.50? I'm not crazy about using wheel spacers but if absolutely necessary would I be able to get away with just using them on the rears to avoid leaf spring rub?

of course this would all be moot if I was just able to find a set of aftermarket wheels that looked halfway-decent. Black wheels are out, wouldn't look good with my rig, so I'm searching for "steel" color, and can't find anything. Only black, or super shiny chromed stuff.

To sum up: 33x10.50 will fit but will have to regear. 32x11.50 will fit but rub on leaf springs. 31x10.50 too small so outta the question. help

 

32's will rub the leaf springs? What?

I run 35x12.5x15's. 15" steelies, 8" wide, with 3.75 backspacing, with DIY beadlocks. Miles away from any rub on the leafs.

 

since the stock wheels are 5.25 backspacing i've read numerous people say that they rub on the leaf springs

 

Huh. Yeah I guess 1.5 inches might make a difference, LOL...never realized stock wheels were that deep...the steelies on mine came on the jeep when I bought it.

 

Yeah stock rims will rub, or get VERY close. 10.5" wide tire is quite close. You need spacer adapters if you want to keep them.

SpiderTrax is the standard for them. You have to remember that they're another maintenance item that have torque specs, just like the rims.

 

Yup, like Salad said, gotta run wheel spacers. I run spidertrax spacers and haven't had any issues with them. Always red lock tight and torque to spec.

 

If you're going with 32" tires to avoid regearing, you really need to reconsider. You gas mileage is going to be horrible and your torque is going to suffer. Just get the 33's, some aftermarket wagon wheels or d-windows and drill them for Jeep hub caps, and re-gear.... you'll be much happier having to spend all the money once (and cry once) than to do what you're attempting and then not be happy with it and change it all up again in the future.

Here's a chart (for reference sake - not bible)



By the way, that "better gas mileage" part that you see in the yellow, is assuming you do only highway driving. I have 32's on 3.55s and my mileage sucks. My RPMs are lower at highway speeds, but I don't see much of those on my commute.... and my crawl ratio sucks now because of it too.

 

I have 32/11.50r15s in a Mickey Thompson deegan 38. They're a very affordable and very aggressive , good looking tire ... road noise is low but tire life I can't speak to yet . They do great on the bit of off-road I've done which was thick mud . I have 5.5in lift and wouldn't want any bigger tires I hate tires looking too big for the lift I've had lifted trucks with tires that rub very aggravating . I will definitely have to regear before I do any other mods because I kick out of OD nonstop ! And I get about 13-15 mpg

 

Biggest downside with the Deegan 38s is the 2-ply sidewalls. May as well run Duratracs.

 

13-15 mpg? Thats pretty good I am happy to get 12 with my setup. I don't drive it on the highway much though mainly back roads and and offroad.

 

15mpg is about average for my 2.5L with 235s and 3.73:1 gears. Once on a road trip I did manage 20mpg but lately 18mpg is tops on a long road trip. But then I am burning a quart of oil every 1500 miles so it is in need of new rings pretty bad