This is my nightmare.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 3
From: Maine
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Every spring bolt I've ever tried to remove with a impact wrench has not budged a single millimeter...food for thought.
Breaker bar is the best way. Get it to start turning out, then as you're backing it out, whenever it "squeals", turn it back in, then out a few times to clear the rust out of the threads. Otherwise you'll either a) not be able to back it out any further due to the rust clogged threads, or b) have the above happen, then snap the bolt or the welded nut in the frame.
I've successfully removed 17 out of the 18 spring bolts I've attempted in my quest for a bastard pack. All of which were the stock leafs.
Breaker bar is the best way. Get it to start turning out, then as you're backing it out, whenever it "squeals", turn it back in, then out a few times to clear the rust out of the threads. Otherwise you'll either a) not be able to back it out any further due to the rust clogged threads, or b) have the above happen, then snap the bolt or the welded nut in the frame.
I've successfully removed 17 out of the 18 spring bolts I've attempted in my quest for a bastard pack. All of which were the stock leafs.
Breaker bar and a 1 and a half foot pipe work... but its still a pita. Have not been able to get my leaf bolts out either...
cut into the floor bro. Its the only way. Its not toooo bad. It hurt a lil at first taking the saw to the floor, but after I pulled the carpet up and saw all the surface rust I have to address in the "trunk."
1. take a drill and from the underside of the upper shock mount, drill a reference hole to where you need to cut so your not blindly cutting away in hopes of finding the right spot to get to the snapped or seized bolts
2. look at the shape of the upper shock mount from underneath before you start cutting, just to get size and shape down.
3. Try and be steady and just cut a rectangle into the floor around the pre drilled hole. Now I realized two methods of extraction.
-cut off the welded nut and drill through the bolt
-just simply drill through the snapped off bolt
well neither were simple options, because I couldnt get my cutoff wheel into the small rectangle I just cut, and I really didnt wanna have to drill through an entire inch of hardened b)olt ( I ended up using 4 drill bits to drill out three bolts and then I just ran my own hardware through the new holes. Im going to get some metal pieces and just silicon them down over the holes in the trunk, and then put some rubberized undercoating on the aread and then rubber flooring over the entire thing.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
dude...TOTALLY unnecessary to cut your floor like that...
I hammered out the captive nuts from below, fed a new bolt through with a piece of mechanics wire, and put a nut on it. Done. No need to hack up the body for a bolt.
I hammered out the captive nuts from below, fed a new bolt through with a piece of mechanics wire, and put a nut on it. Done. No need to hack up the body for a bolt.
Definatly do not cut up the floor. Is you air chisel working correctly? Good psi? I have a crappy hf one that wacked mine off in 2 seconds
3 of my buddies broke and we broke em out with a bfh.
3 of my buddies broke and we broke em out with a bfh.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 2
From: Walled Lake, MI
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Well I have to go to work in an hour so ill stop here for now. I bought new bolts for the springs and wouldnt you know the damn threads are stripped on the frame. So now I have to buy a tap and tap a 9/16th's thread to install the leafs. I think at this rate ill be done lifting the Heep in a year or so. This is totally bumming me out.
-Ryan
-Ryan
lol right.....
hammered out the nuts from below. Explain....?
that was not possible.. the bolts completely snapped off..
How would you get the new nut up inside the crossmember where it bolts up afterward ANYWAYS?there is no gap to get ANYTHING up behind the crossmember whatsoever..
cutting was defintely the easiest and most logical.
plus
this aint no show truck lol
Last edited by sandfish88; Oct 14, 2011 at 03:02 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 3
From: Maine
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
The breaker bar and pipe will work. It just takes a long time. After its backed out of the threads get a BFH and a crowbar and hammer it out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
lol right.....
hammered out the nuts from below. Explain....?
that was not possible.. the bolts completely snapped off..
How would you get the new nut up inside the crossmember where it bolts up afterward ANYWAYS?there is no gap to get ANYTHING up behind the crossmember whatsoever..
cutting was defintely the easiest and most logical.
plus
this aint no show truck lol
hammered out the nuts from below. Explain....?
that was not possible.. the bolts completely snapped off..
How would you get the new nut up inside the crossmember where it bolts up afterward ANYWAYS?there is no gap to get ANYTHING up behind the crossmember whatsoever..
cutting was defintely the easiest and most logical.
plus
this aint no show truck lol
Next... you see those two BIG triangle shaped holes right in the middle under your jeep between the two upper shock mounting points? You take a bolt between your fingers, or stuck to the end of a wrench with electrical tape if you have fat hands, reach in there, and drop it through the holes you knocked the broken bolts out of... now all ya gotta do is put the shock up there and put a nut on it...
Now... I do not comprehend what you're trying to say... please, explain how cutting up your unibody was easier and more logical than that?
it's really easy dude... the bolt is snapped off in the nut... get a sledge and a center punch, and smack the middle of that broken off bolt a few good times, it'll knock the welded nut out too. now you just have holes where the bolts were...
Next... you see those two BIG triangle shaped holes right in the middle under your jeep between the two upper shock mounting points? You take a bolt between your fingers, or stuck to the end of a wrench with electrical tape if you have fat hands, reach in there, and drop it through the holes you knocked the broken bolts out of... now all ya gotta do is put the shock up there and put a nut on it...
Now... I do not comprehend what you're trying to say... please, explain how cutting up your unibody was easier and more logical than that?
Next... you see those two BIG triangle shaped holes right in the middle under your jeep between the two upper shock mounting points? You take a bolt between your fingers, or stuck to the end of a wrench with electrical tape if you have fat hands, reach in there, and drop it through the holes you knocked the broken bolts out of... now all ya gotta do is put the shock up there and put a nut on it...
Now... I do not comprehend what you're trying to say... please, explain how cutting up your unibody was easier and more logical than that?
I must have a tough son of *****. I tried the punch and a BF sledge, on the upper shock mounting bolts, about 400 times. and it didn't even wince.
and I do have pretty large hands so getting the bolts up in the little holes was not gonna happen. The tape and the wrench may have worked, but how would I have gotten the screw out without damaging the mounting location??
pita
ps im no engineer but I dont think I killed the structural integrity of the heep with a couple holes
Last edited by sandfish88; Oct 14, 2011 at 04:57 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
No, you didn't kill the integrity with a couple holes if it was clean, like with a holesaw, and a dremel or at least some sandpaper. there's a build I saw not long ago like that that was decent. But I've never seen a weld between a small nut and sheet metal that I couldn't break with at least a bfg. though when mine broke I did it with an air hammer, when my friend's broke in my driveway lifting his I did it with an 8 pound sledge and a center punch. both these jeeps were pretty clean and solid under there. I'm not saying that if the cuts were clean enough and done with some sense it would be a wrong way of doing it, I'm just saying it's easier to just knock em out and drop new in. especially for someone who is new to jeeps and reads this thread and breaks out the sawzall. If that makes sense... damn hennessey
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 2
From: Walled Lake, MI
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Easy fellas. I managed to get the bolt out. So now all I need to do is figure out how in the hell I am going to fix the lower shock mount bolt that busted. Thinkin on just cutting it off and drilling a hole through the mount and running a bolt through it. Sound good guys? Or do you think there is an easier/faster way?
Easy fellas. I managed to get the bolt out. So now all I need to do is figure out how in the hell I am going to fix the lower shock mount bolt that busted. Thinkin on just cutting it off and drilling a hole through the mount and running a bolt through it. Sound good guys? Or do you think there is an easier/faster way?
Else cut and drill.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Easy fellas. I managed to get the bolt out. So now all I need to do is figure out how in the hell I am going to fix the lower shock mount bolt that busted. Thinkin on just cutting it off and drilling a hole through the mount and running a bolt through it. Sound good guys? Or do you think there is an easier/faster way?


