This is my nightmare.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 3
From: Maine
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If I were you I would put A nut on it and leave like 5 layers of thread sticking out and then weld the nut to the bolt. Then take pb and spray it on the inside of the "frame". Then using a BIG breaker bar slightly tighten then loosen a few times then try to remove it completely.
Hope you get it out either way
Hope you get it out either way
Hell I just heated em beat mine with a baby sledge n used a floorjack to push my old springs down I'm fabricating. My own lift 4 shackles. N rear and Pontiac. Catalina. Springs on 3 inch lift cups all my lift costed 45$ rides descent. Next question is the steering. And now im goin to fab a 2 inch transfer case drop I want it sitting high with no driveline issues
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Year: 1988, 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 litre V8
This is a great thread. I am expecting some problems converting my 2WD '98 over to 4WD and I believe you have touched on every problem. As many old cars as I've built, PB Blaster and a whole lotta a$$ has removed 90% of the bolts. An additional 8% broke, and the other 2% were pounded, cut, smashed to oblivion, heated, or otherwise disected from their resting place in a most brutal manner.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 904
Likes: 3
From: Maine
Year: 1999 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
PB blaster wont do anything except give you a false sense of security when your bolt gets frozen in your bushing. I used it for WEEKS leading up to doing mine, and even backed them out a bit to make sure they werent frozen. Gave me a false sense of security and I ran into a lot more trouble because of it. Read my write up!!!!!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 3
From: Maine
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
PB blaster wont do anything except give you a false sense of security when your bolt gets frozen in your bushing. I used it for WEEKS leading up to doing mine, and even backed them out a bit to make sure they werent frozen. Gave me a false sense of security and I ran into a lot more trouble because of it. Read my write up!!!!!
And if I cut that area out I cant weld a peice back over it because I dont have a welder.
The only welder I could borrow is way out of my skill level.
So I thought about it and im gonna go with a sye. but 1 question. Where can I get one for a 242 t-case? I am having a hard time finding one. I can find them for a 231 but not a 242. Also, would i be fine with getting a front driveshaft for the rear or would I need to get one from Tom Woods?
and on the upside they are cheaper:
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XDT
$200 for everything you need.
i would suggest you measure you front driveshaft to make sure it will be about them length you need(this kit comes with a refurb stock front xj shaft). i have an AA SYE and a front DS would be about 4" too short, but then i have a manual with the np231 and a d35(for now). i have heard of many people running front DS on the rear with no issues.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
no one makes a full SYE(where you replace the output shaft entirely) for the 242, your only option is a hack n tap. basically you cut a portion of the tcase output shaft off(being as straight a cut as possible) and then drill and tap a hole in the center of it(again, being as straight as you can). then you bolt on a new yoke to the existing output shaft. they are not as strong as the full SYEs but there are loads of people who have done it and honestly i never hear anything bad about them.
and on the upside they are cheaper:
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XDT
$200 for everything you need.
i would suggest you measure you front driveshaft to make sure it will be about them length you need(this kit comes with a refurb stock front xj shaft). i have an AA SYE and a front DS would be about 4" too short, but then i have a manual with the np231 and a d35(for now). i have heard of many people running front DS on the rear with no issues.
and on the upside they are cheaper:
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XDT
$200 for everything you need.
i would suggest you measure you front driveshaft to make sure it will be about them length you need(this kit comes with a refurb stock front xj shaft). i have an AA SYE and a front DS would be about 4" too short, but then i have a manual with the np231 and a d35(for now). i have heard of many people running front DS on the rear with no issues.
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242LateDe...e27spline.html
It is true that no one makes a HD Sye for a 242, but Tom Woods comes pretty damn close...
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242LateDe...e27spline.html
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242LateDe...e27spline.html
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