SYE or hack n tap would be the better choice... but some 1" square tubing between the crossmember and unibody with some longer bolts will take care of your t-case drop.

 

I thought about making my own. But I just cant justify making a homebrew tcase drop. It seems a little sketchy.

 

bull****

THERE WAS NO TAPPING THE BOLTS OUT. they had to be cut off and drilled out. DOESNT WORK IN ALL CASES.

 

I call bull**** on your bull****, get an air hammer or a sledge and a center punch. little pink handled claw hammers are not going to do it.

 

I can't justify paying money for someone to ship me the exact same thing, or even just plastic 1" spacers. only reason I've got em is it came with my lift. You'll be fine bro. if you're gonna spend money, spend it on an SYE

 

Good point.

 

Cool? So you couldnt tap your bolts out (never said anything about TAPPING or BOLTS, so Im not sure why youre shouting?!?) Im talking about the welded NUT on the inside of the frame that leads guys to cut up their floor and tell others to do the same. Its tacked in place and can be POUNDED (that was the word I used actually) out from below easily. You can call bull**** on whatever you like, doesnt bother me if someone wants to cut up their Jeep, but Im just trying to HELP others and show them what happened to me and how I fixed it and how anyone SHOULD be able to do the same. I cant imagine a scenario where what I did wouldnt work.....unless the factory welded that nut all the way around.

 

Agreed.
It's just tacked on there. You can get a chisel and smack it a couple times in the right spots and it WILL pop out. You just have to be smarter than what you're working with.

 

Back to the original issue, I don't know if you got them out. The way i did it was a lot of spraying with PB blaster, over time, like 3 hours at every 20 minutes, then I used a wrench and a floor jack. What sucks is you don't get much movement each time, but your never going to put as much pressure as a 1.5 ton floor jack, and rinse lather and repeat. It takes time, but its effective, and saves you slipping and busting up your hand. you get about a 1/4 turn each time, and that sucks, but they go back in really easy, especially after trying to get them out. Hope this suggestion helps.

 

I actually just got done with the lift last night. Thanks for the info though. I used that method for the rear leaf bolts. bottle jack and a breaker bar.

 

So I thought about it and im gonna go with a sye. but 1 question. Where can I get one for a 242 t-case? I am having a hard time finding one. I can find them for a 231 but not a 242. Also, would i be fine with getting a front driveshaft for the rear or would I need to get one from Tom Woods?

 

we used a variety of center punches and a 20 pound sledge and about 400 tries with 4 different people giving it a try. Then we tried and tried some more... there wasnt a lot of material holding on the nut, but it was ****in strong.

And call me stupid if you want, but that was the ONLYway it was going to be done sweetheart.

 

I'm not calling you stupid. It would have been easier if you put a little heat to it. Knocking those nuts out when it's cold is a *****.

 

Unless this happenes...

Now what?
Try double nut it?

 

If I were you I would put A nut on it and leave like 5 layers of thread sticking out and then weld the nut to the bolt. Then take pb and spray it on the inside of the "frame". Then using a BIG breaker bar slightly tighten then loosen a few times then try to remove it completely.
Hope you get it out either way