Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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msd ignition boxes?

Old Jun 6, 2013 | 07:39 AM
  #16  
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You should get to know the motor your working on before you decide anything. You said yourself you don't know anything about it.

What folks are trying to tell you is the things you are thinking of doing will get you nothng. No gains. Tue 4.0 motor is fine as-is. Unless you stroke it, all those parts you say are cheaper than a regear are just going to be a waste of money.

These guys have been in your shoes. Seen it. Done it. Cruiser even WORKED at a dealership.

So what gives you the idea that all their years of experience directly with these motors is trumped by your "drag car sounding and felling batter" as you so intelligently put it?
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by joshC
i want to put gears and lockers but 300-400 per axle for the lockers and 500-600 for both gear set.

i think its cheeper just rebuilding and adding more power im only running 31in tire
You need to experience 4lo then.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:25 PM
  #18  
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cheap low end power shouldnt be that hard to find a set of 4 cyliinder axles with 3.73 or 4.10 in them already. found my set of 3.55 that ive ran in my ax-15 for $150. i welded the rear. just my 2 cents. if you want better throttle response get bored tb and injectors and such.
but i find it hard to think a inline6 has power issue on 31s.
then when you get the time buy a cheap doner block and build the stroker right. jeeps dont cost much to build if you take your time. believe it or not you can mix and match alot of stock parts and build a very nice xj they have been around for along time.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 05:13 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
So what gives you the idea that all their years of experience directly with these motors is trumped by your "drag car sounding and felling batter" as you so intelligently put it?


i'm just trying to make sense of it all. each motor is its own, i know this. i'm taking what they have to say and looking around and everything, not saying there wrong or any thing. i have been told one thing and go with it and then have it back fire in my face and cost me more money, in the end.

just like stang65 i didn't know they had that many gear sets in the same body style now im got more research to do now.


it takes so long for my jeep to start and its slowly getting worse.

simply put i wanted input form everyone and i got the input and still getting it.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by joshC
i'm just trying to make sense of it all. each motor is its own, i know this. i'm taking what they have to say and looking around and everything, not saying there wrong or any thing. i have been told one thing and go with it and then have it back fire in my face and cost me more money, in the end.

just like stang65 i didn't know they had that many gear sets in the same body style now im got more research to do now.


it takes so long for my jeep to start and its slowly getting worse.

simply put i wanted input form everyone and i got the input and still getting it.
Well, fix why it's taking long to start first. MSD ain't gonna fix that. Basics first.....
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 05:35 PM
  #21  
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true but the only two things that are left is the coil and coil mod unless there is something im missing
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by joshC
true but the only two things that are left is the coil and coil mod unless there is something im missing
Have you done any of the REnix tips in the "pink link" in my signature?

And, to get off this MSD crap, tell us everything you HAVE done please.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #23  
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Sounds if it ran right to begin with you would not need a winch or mods for "up & over". 4 lo with stock gears it should be able to climb a tree, or smoke the tires tryin.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:14 PM
  #24  
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turbo if that's the case then im doing something wrong. cruiser54 i didn't until you said something
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:10 PM
  #25  
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cruiser54 i was reading on the link , and i seen that we should be shifting the t-case when we are moving? that don't sound right, is there any reason to this? i have all ways stopped to shift it
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 11:38 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by joshC
cruiser54 i was reading on the link , and i seen that we should be shifting the t-case when we are moving? that don't sound right, is there any reason to this? i have all ways stopped to shift it
That's the way it was designed to work. go for it.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #27  
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The owners manual actually suggests you be moving slowly before shifting into 4 low.

I didn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
The owners manual actually suggests you be moving slowly before shifting into 4 low.

I didn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes.
Yup.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 07:03 PM
  #29  
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i did it to day in the parking lot at work, and yea it does work. but my front axle hand the vac slide thing to lock the pas side in, and it did not lock in and made a ready bad sound.

is there a way to by pass it.

i got a haft a day on the rack at work and got most of what you posted about cruiser58 and it still has a long start time. any idea's
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by joshC
i did it to day in the parking lot at work, and yea it does work...
Originally Posted by joshC
...cruiser58...
ZOMGLOLZ


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