First time making my own thread. I have found tons of info since I got my first Cherokee a few weeks ago. Thank you everyone that puts out the good info. I have a 1998 Cherokee Classic. I have owned tons of truck included lifted, but my first jeep.


I am trying to do things cheap but right. I have decided on the Rubicon Express 3.5 super ride as I wont do any crazy rock crawling as I live in Ohio so I cant justify the extra money for the super flex. SO I already have 31x10.5's and I'm going to get the RE lift without the shocks so I can save some money. Also make my own bump stops front and back. Also was going to use front brake lines http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....262&cc=1315943 and http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....265&cc=1315943.




Now to my main question, after reading about the JK Rubicon shocks I realized that only the rear will work as I will most likely get almost 4-4.5 out of the lift. I searched Monroe's catalog and found front and rear shocks that should rival what would have came with RE kit. Kind of unsure why I didn't find anything about them on here?


The RE shocks that would come with the kit http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspen...e&VGID=12#tab2




Monroe 911526 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1129867 for the rear (slightly longer then JK rear)
Monroe 911521 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=951409 for the front


Both are Monotube and I believe they would be like gold for my DD/moderate off-roading. Also at ~$30 less a shock then the Bilstein alternitive.
What is yall's opinion on using these shocks and even the brake lines instead of YJ lines?


Thanks in advance!

 

Greene,

Congrats on getting an XJ and welcome to the forum!

The brake lines from rockauto will work fine w/ that kit. Just be sure they don't rub on anything when turning lock-to-lock.

If you choose the Monroe or RE shocks just be aware that they may not last long and/or may get hot if you subject them to anything other than daily-driving or light trails. They aren't valved for HD use or extremes or certain spring-rates. All of which are important to consider when buying. This is why the Bilsteins carry a premium price tag; they are superior in their technology and materials.

I have them on mine and combined with the other components I've chosen to work with them, I am very satisfied. What is best for you are the ones that meet your needs and expectations. "Cheap but right" is an ideal we all have, but, you will compromise somewhere: Price or features and benefits?

I live in Wilmington, Oh. If you'd like, you can come here and drive mine and decide for yourself. I have the RE SR on mine (with some other mods not contained in the kit) running 31's. Let me know.

Also, you may have to replace your shackles to correct the rear suspension geometry. Otherwise, the springs will not cycle properly and it will ride/handle poorly and/or wear the leafs out prematurely.

One other thing. You also need to be aware that the XJ may not sit level front to rear with the RE kit. You may need to install spacers or ACOS to compensate for this. Unless, of course, you want it to sit unlevel. And you will probably need an sye (slip yoke eliminator) and rear axle shims to get the proper driveline angles. These items are not included in the kit.

 

^ x2, you get what you pay for usually. on a side note go with the RE super flex for a little more, the unibody will thank you if your going to wheel it. My re kit sits level, but as stated shackle angle is not the proper 45 and closer to 90. I also run bilstein and they are amazing for the money. monroe for road are fine but wheeling or not dont expect cheapies to live long. if your in question save until you can put the right parts together. I read a saying i wish i would have thought about much more earlier on building my jeep.

~do it right not twice

 

Monroe are cheap oem grade shocks,Look in to bilstein shocks if you want it to ride good.

 

Thank you all for the replies. I looked into the super flex vs the super ride. Looking at both side by side all part numbers were the same except for the LCA and sway bar connections. I am going to build quick disconnect sway bar linkage later on, and I can't justify the rebuildable flex joints in the LCA for the extra $200.

i would love to get the bilsteins for the build but if I went with the monotube Monroe shocks instead the diffence in cost would let me get an sye sooner. I'm sure I'm going to need one since I have a '98. (Hoping to get an AA SYE and use a front drive shaft)

Also I am new to off-roading and have other hobbies (Harley's and firearms). I can't see there being that much of a diffence for a beginner, I will be doing light trails and maybe just general off-roading in the fields and woods of Ohio for a while.

There is only an inch or less difference in travel vs the ones supplied with the RE kit and I tryed to match the mounts as closely as possibly. In your opinion would they work for a few years or are they going to fail me first trip out?

Im not trying to ignore everyone's advice, I'm just trying to build a beginner off-road vehicle that can still be a DD. I can get the RE super-ride for $520 from 4wheelonline with there 10% off right now.

 

Btw 4WD4EVER I live near stonelick lake so I know were you are for sure. I am wanting to get something together to be able to drive to the jeep jam in august.

 

Will likely need to replace the rear soft brake line also. And check routing of parking brake cables to make sure there is enough slack. Passenger side may pass over the muffler which would cause cable to be too short when suspension droops.
The LCA price difference could also be that the more expensive one is adjustable, to help dial in alignment and/or wheelbase.

 

According to there website, the are fixed LCA just have that rebuildable flex joint. And the kit does come with the extended brake line. Thanks for the heads up on the e-brake cables though!

 

Comes with extended rear brake line? That would be good because it is often overlooked. Attached picture shows stock brake line on lifted XJ. Notice how tight it is. This is what will happen when suspension droops. Also notice that parking brake cable looks tight.

 

You are close! Lol!

Sorry for the delayed response but I've had no time for the forum.

Here is my best advice since you say this is to be a dd and beginners off-road:

Buy the kit and components that enable the suspension and steering geometry to stay in their proper relationships to each other because if this is not achieved no shock is going to be able to compensate for this and you will prematurely wear-out and/or break other parts and you will spend more money than you ever intended. I guarantee it.

And remember, none of these kits has everything you will require. It will take $.

I would advise, based on your statements, to forego the high-end shocks for now; you can swap them out later.

All you have to do to verify my statements above is research this forum and read all the horror stories of those who had the same stated goals as you only to find out the supposed short-cuts weren't really short-cuts after all. Theory and reality often collide.

Do it right the first time and you will save money in the long run.

If I don't meet you before then, maybe we'll meet at the Jeep Jam. Wanted to go last year but it just wasn't possible.