CherockeeXJ

So I bought my first vehicle, 1996 Ford F150, and had it for a year, I wrecked it into a rock wall on some back roads... Damn rear wheel drive trucks.

Anyways, my Grandpa has a Jeep Cherokee that I love and my dad use to have one when I was younger. I'm dead set on getting a Cherokee, looking around now.

The first thing I want to do is lift her and throw her on some bigger wheels. I was thinking about a 4.5" Lift -- http://zoneoffroad.com/product?ki=439 -- and then I would need to install a SYE -- http://www.4wd.com/Slip-Yoke-Elimina...ance+Adapters# -- with a correct sized driveshaft.

I will tell you this now, this Jeep is going to involve a lot of blood, sweat, tears, and ... I don't have much mechanical know how prior.

Since it'll be a 4x4 will I have to do anything else to the other driveshaft? Just looking for guidance and would appreciate any help. I've always been envious of them Jeeps.

Gee oh Dee

Front shaft should be fine. Its a double cardan telescoping shaft.

CherockeeXJ

That's good, saves me a little more money. If you don't mind taking a look at that lift I linked could you tell me if there is anything else you'd recommend I pick up.

Gee oh Dee

You'll want an adjustable trac bar.

Lots of companies make them. Whatever you buy, make sure it cones with the body side bracket, and make sure its "double shear" and not a tie rod end style like the factory body side is.

I went with IRO, and am very pleased. Their other stuff, however, leaves something to be desired for most folks.

Gee oh Dee

The factory style has basically a tie rod end style pivot joint on the body side of the trac bar. Because of this the axle's droop is limited. The ball and socket joint (tre style) can olny move so much before the stem that goes into the frame side bracket makes contact with the housing of the tie rod end joint itself...stopping travel and prematurely wearing that joint out.

With a double shear joint on both ends (axle side is not tre style on OEM) the trac bar will allow unlimited droop because the bar pivots on a bolt that passes thru a round bushing, and there is nothing to bind/prevent downward arc travel of the trac bar....

Hopefully that makes sense.

DieselD

Brake lines and bump stops. Possibly shims for the axle since you're doing a sye.

Gee oh Dee

Link said it took care of lines and bumps.

CherockeeXJ

It has 2" bumps and brake line relocation brackets

So I need to pick up some longer brake lines and adjustable trac bar when I do this.

Doesn't make a whole lot of since right now, haven't done a whole lot of work on cars other than "routine" work. My grandpa however use to be a mechanic and drove Jeeps all his life so I'll run this by him.

freegdr

Could save a little doe going this route for sye ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slip-Yoke-Eliminator-Kit-NP231-SYE-Kit-Wrangler-1987-2006-XJ-1988-2001-/261086139783?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item3cc9f25587&vxp=mtr#ht_3123wt_1083

freegdr

Double sheer...

CherockeeXJ

Thank you very much for that. I can do a lot with $100!

Pardon for the stupid question, what is the advantages to this? Increased range of motion? From what this thread has told me the stock setup can limit how far the suspension can flex. Correct me if I'm work?

Thanks for the information though!

freegdr

yes more rrange of motion up and down .

CherockeeXJ

I appreciate your helpfulness. Not like the rude F150 forum I use to frequent!

I'm really excited to finally get a Jeep. I'm going to look at one mid next week!

freegdr

A track like this can only travel the distance the casting allows .

freegdr

opps