If ya think itll work, then go for it.

Some of us have broken dana 60's and 44's with completely stock motors, and 35's.

My next suspension build will probably be based off the ruffstuff specialties 3 link diy kit.

 

It was locked front and rear it was the red xj from michigan on the ultimate adventure a couple years back.

 

I have used the barnes 4x4 3 link kit with the johnny joints and it is pure beef. I am thinking a 6.5 long arm now with trimming and 36 iroks after seeing ct67 72's before the axle swap that is exactly what I am shooting for but as I said I will need more lift as I am moving back to michigan and I will need the clearance for the mud.

 

he is my last project from az about a year ago except I dont have any pics with the 3 link or the HP 44 front or the gm 12 bolt rear

 

I vote to go elsewhere for long arms. No personal experience but from everyone ive seen that is more experienced with building long arm setups IRO is inferior. Serious, RE, Clayton, and RK are what the goons use.

 

Hahaha, I would refer to the guys who have time to build their own setups as the goons! Not meant to offend anyone, so don't take it so. I purchased the serious longarms, and soo far theyve worked out great.

 

Thats what I plan on going with, either SERIOUS or RK.. Unless I find time to make my own.

 

It links the upper axle mount to the lower link. Hence a link. And its not wristed because it doesn't move. A wristed link pivots.
Technically its a 4 link anyway. Two lower links, one link from the upper mount to the lower arm and a panhard.
It's a y link radius arm. But still 3 links.

 

damn, everyone needs to accept a universal way to describe suspension link setups.

4 link: just that, four SEPARATE links going from the body to the axle.

3 link: 3 SEPARATE links going from the body to axle.

radius arm/y link: 2 lower links, with the upper links connected to the lowers.

wristed radius arm: This is where it gets tricky and theres always someone who disagrees in the group, you have the ford setup that has been around the 70's. It never came from the factory wristed, but "wristing" the arms was a popular modification done by both home fabricators and lift companies alike

here is an arm modified to be "wristed"



and here are the stock unwristed arms



The unwristed arm is generally left on the side the differential is on to better control the pinion angle, while the wristed side is on the other end of the axle.

Whats so different from the way this works compared to the iron rock setup? You have the drivers side arm mounted to the axle, keeping the caster and pinion angle in check, and on the passenger side you have the link thats "wristed" to the lower control arm bracket via a bolt and bushing who's only purpose is to keep that side of the axle in place.

Just because the iron rock "y" (which is one solid piece by the way, not separate links) is connected to the axle differently than a radius arm, it doesn't make it a 3 link. It is still a radius arm.


And lets leave trackbars out of this. It is commonly accepted that the trackbar is a given, and has very little to do with how the actual link setup performs.

 

Well said!

 

Well man... despite what people say who have not given them a shot, IRO is not a bad company. I have over 140,000 miles on 6.5" kit and have not had any major problems. I can list every problem I have had here:
1. Went through a few of the braided brake lines. They now come coated in rubber, have not broke once since.
2. track bar bushings (1 time)
3. The M14x 120 Class 10.9 bolts that go through the CA Bushings- I have worn them out once... the bushing is not affected but it cuts into the bolts over time. I have had to do this once.
4. Pound leaf springs straight.

Thats it. In 140,000 miles I have maybe 100 bucks in repairs (mostly brake line). I use it as my DD but spend alot of time off the road. Crawling, mudding, sand, driving through the surf, it has handled it all very well. It rides nice on the road and works great off the road. I have ran a few different kits over the years and can say that this is by far my favorite.

Customer service is awesome. I have never had to wait more than a few hours for a reply.

People knock them because of the "10mm" bolt... mine has not moved (without me doing it) since I put it on. People knock them because of the radius setup but most of the kits out there are radius arms. TNT Customs consistently gets some of the best reviews out there and they are also a radius arm setup.

I say give them a shot. They are easily the best of the cheaper brands and i dont see the small "improvements" the expensive kits have being worth 2/3x as much money. Spend that cash on your engine and have fun.

 

P.S. Im not sure why people knock IROs quality. IROs arms are made from thicker metal than Serious Offroads, Rustys and several other kits. Almost all LA kits use 2" DOM, including the more expensive brands. Sure the RK kit might come with the "MONSTER BUSHING" and a "MONSTER KRAWLER JOINT" and while they might be better than the "bushing" and "super-flex joint" IRO runs, you will notice no difference running through a mudhole. Plus you could have 3 spares of everything with the extra cash. (not that I think you would need them.. I have done everything except jump it) I will give RK credit for offering solid control arms... most companies do not.

As for radius/3link/4link etc... there are people who swear by each design. They are all going to be better than your stock arms and they are all going to give you flex. Serious is a radius, TNT is a radius, Skyjacker is a Radius, Rough Country is a Radius, Rusty's is a Radius, Rubicon Express is a Radius...... Who cares if IRO is as well.

 

its a completely different type of radius arm, putting more stress on that single upper mount. I think the fact that they use a rubber bushing there saves the small bolt (and caster adjuster) But its a tradeoff, I personally hate front axle wrap and would by far prefer a hard joint with a real bolt in there when there is only one upper mounting point.

As for the kit working fine just for you, thats fine and dandy. but 140k is a lot of miles, for the rest of your jeep to last that long through wheeling and look as beautiful as it does leads me to believe you don't exactly push the limits of your rigs capability. Maybe I'm wrong, and you take care of everything that happens to it on the trail pretty nicely, but its just an observation.

as for joint and bushing quality, it may not matter in your application, it does matter to many other people.

 

im sure he doesnt wheel too hard at all.

 

That is all the info I need. I have been into fourwheelin for a long time and seen just about every lift kit amanageable and I have been doing my homework and just needed soild proof like mentioned above you sir have me sold! Now i just need the money lol!