I'm a firm believer in low COG, so it was great to find this thread (though I was looking something else on google to find it, namely how lift shocks work under compression, bumpstop wise). I'm currently running 34" TSLs with no lift and only minor rubbing on the side in the back with the remaining stock bumpstop, which will be replaced later this week. Anyway, cool thread with great info, gave me a clue what I'm getting into next with shocks.

Having fun this weekend, I have some questions that still haven't been cleared up yet. Specifically, if I use a '3" lift shock' (ordered with coils from Rusty's last friday), what can I expect for bumpstopping? Is it as simple as "halving" the lift that the shock is intended for, making it 1.5" needed? Currently I have an odd concoction similar to the glued in hockey puck, roughly about 1.75" thick.

Anyone else make their own rear bumpstops? I was missing one and made my own with a hard rubber material similar in dimentions to a wood 2x4, tapered to soften the bump... however it ended up getting eaten by the trail, leaving about a .75" half circle removed by the axle. Any better ideas for home made?

 

Pics of your 34s on no lift? I'd love to see how you did it!

 

Making an attempt.... Not good at this, and don't have much way to get better pics yet...

Oh, and I should add, that due to axle wrap the rear could be considered lowered! lol

Well, the second batch of pics aren't sending off my phone so I'll try the one I have. The thing is bedliner black on the sides and forest green up top, but the puddles left the hood looking brown (also why there's steam rolling off it)

 

Nice! What axles are you running and have you regeared?

 

dooood ur jeeps on fire

 

if your current bumpstopping is good enough to keep your 34's from eating your fender, then you shouldnt need to change it with 3" springs and shocks

 

correct bumpstopping is dependent on tire size / trimming alone. Suspension lift does not matter.

 

As things are playing out, it looks like my jeep.will stay as is this year, unless things change. The minor things I may get done wont change lift, at least not for a month or two.

The lift is only for belly clearance, as little naches and other trails around me have pits and roots. Im doing ok so far, but I have to really watch it.

The current setup is pretty much bone stock, with the fenders trimmed, other body work, 34s added and bumpstops. Only planned alterations are rear bumpstops redone, and lock rights front and rear.

Stock gearing, chryco rear. I just leave it in 4lo and have no problems, though I stay out of the worst mud.


Ill regear to 4.56 when I dump the 8.8 in, which isnprobibly when the lift will go in, and a cage is planned, though I dont want it any more top heavy than necessary.

I also plan to replace the crossmember with a nice thick sheet of steel, covering back to the tcase.

 

Nice looking rig man! And thank you for putting this together, very imforitive.

 

Update on my 3" lift:

So far, I haven't reset the bumpstops. I ended up having to remove the pucks up front to change the springs, but it should be close to what I had, which was actually too aggressive (had like 3/4" too much bumpstop, and kept hitting them). The bumpstop for the back that I made got eaten (bad materials), but the stock one worked well, though it was a hair short. I got some longer bolts and will just put spacers on the stock bumpstops once I get back into it.

Results of the lift: Measuring before/after, the front is 3.5" higher than it was before the lift, and the rear is 5.5" higher than it was. The vehicle is levelish for all intents and purposes, favoring a little higher in the rear, which I figure will settle down after articulating a few times.

This tells me that my rear springs were frowning worse that I thought, worse than they appeared. I didn't think to measure the level of the vehicle before the lift to know, but maybe I'll look at my DD as a reference, it's springs look about the same.

New question: The front LCAs are 1/2" from hitting the upper side of the control arm mount. Currently they are stock but I'm going to be ordering new ones with extra clearance for my stock rims. The question is, has anyone heard of the stock LCAs binding with a 3" lift? I've not been able to find it on the lift thread or this thread. I would think that it would be mentioned somewhere, or that Rusty's would have LCAs recommended under their "3 Lift Complete" if they are going to the extent of selling tires and rims as part of it (didn't get that lift, of course, but LCAs aren't listed in the parts list or recommended parts.)

This jeep isn't going to see the road much anymore, it's all trail from now on, so flex is the big deal. Don't want to end up tearing up my control arm mounts if there's something this indicates. On a side note, on lift LCAs from rusty's, does the bend make the axle end straight to the mount (better clearance to the mount), or does it go up? All the site says is "better clearance", but I'm not sure if it's better trail clearance or better mechanical clearance. Anyone know?

 

the stock LCA's will limit droop, and thats because of the LCA mount like you mentioned.

the bend in most aftermarket control arms is what allows farther droop than stock.

i wouldnt worry about this causing the mounts to get damaged, theres a good chance the stock LCA will bend way before this happens

 

Awesome thread! helped me a lot!
Had to comment on it just to bump it back into recent circulation.

 

awesome post. full of great info.

 

great info

 

this should be a sticky or at least kept bumped since so many people can learn wonders from this thread. thanks!