That would be 0 load. The only time that there would not be more load on the drivetrain. Can you drive up an obstacle with 0 load?

 

key term here: mechanical advantage

 

Yup at 4.88 there is only 2 pinion teeth engaged at any time. My thought? Why take that chance? If your going to gear that low, play it safe and get a 44 so you get more teeth contact

 

but there are tons of 4.88 geared 30s out there. And that failure just isn't that common

 

Oh I know, but being as that is a essential area of the axle, I would rather take the least chance on it, you can fix u-joints, swap axle shafts stub shafts, drive shafts, etc... But you explode that ring and pinion, your ******

 

Obviously... but that's what I mean... long as the tires are turning/spinning there is LESS load... regardless of the amount of force... trying to explain my point but u should be seeing what I'm saying by now..

 

I see where this is coming from.
I dunno it's I'm trying to get lower. More driveable or bigger on tires. I have around 4 inches of up travel with my shock setup. 6 down 4 up. I'm thinking of going to 36s. 34s seem small now. And I'm working on my flat belly setup.

 

I'm late to the party, but whatevs!

why in the hell would you run anything but the stock link design at stock height? It works great at low heights and wont hit anything.

Im a firm believer housing and outer strength helps keep those u joints together. I still wouldn't run a 44 on anything larger than a 37" tire (in fact I did at one point lol, but it was super polished, didn't break anything either)

I've stuffed 37's in intense undercuts and hammered on it with more success than buddies running 33's on their dana 30's on less intense obstacles. same u joints, full circle clips.

 

Sure the 44 is stronger than the 30 in general... your thought could very well be true I've only ran Dana 44's on the rear... guess if my rig came stock or with a 44 already installed I'd go with it till it broke at least.... but for a axle swap ya may well go 60... same money if u play it right...

 

great advice man! I'm definitely sticking with the LCOG rig. mine was originally 2.5" lift in the front, and about 2.9" in the rear on 33s. then the front went to full 3" coils. The look is badass, and I feel it performs better on the trails as well.

I was originally bumpstopped in the rear, but then I swapped axles, and have yet to re-install my bumpstops.

currently am overhauling my Jeep and going to a 4" long arm lift, and getting 35s.

here's some pics of the setup

the original 2.5" lift


3" coils, not bumpstopped. factory control arm setup


and here's a level picture with the 3" coils

 

I'm going to go the LOW COG approach on my next XJ. I just got into wheeling and bought a 2000 XJ with 8" of lift and 35" tires.

Next rig i'm going to go with a 4 or 5" lift and cut and role the finders etc.

 

Subbed so I can find this again when I'm sober

 

Hahaha you win!!

 

It's my plan... I hope to not raise the jeep any more than this...

 

so do you think shackle relocation boxs and a longer bump stops in the rear will help me get some more flex? didnt feel like the front was close to maxed.