What is the best long arm design? Is three link or four link better? Which is the most accurate effective way to diy?

 

radius is easiest to diy

 

radius is easiest and flexes more than enough. im more than happy with mine

3 link has more flex than radius arms,

4 link is almost impossible to fit under the front AND get good geometry out of it BUT you dont have a trac bar and as many bump steer issues as the other set ups.

iirc terraflex is coming out with a front 4 link kit and when they do im going to copy it and build my own since i cant seem to find one of them there money trees

 

4 link is the best in an ideal world as it doesnt need a track bar. Best option as far as bang for buck though is a LA kit similar to Staangs Fab or IROs

 

go too fab threads my longarm build....(not for my design but for the advice i have been given) BTW best thing i ever did.. should be on the first page still

 

As long as you triangulate atleast the uppers. A standard 4 link that say uses the stock axle mount locations will need a track bar

 

I have heard nothing but good things about this kit
Poly Performance

and its 3-link cousin
linky

It's the one I'm planning on getting when I finally upgrade.

 

your both wrong in a sense about the 4-link setup..... look at the front of ANY Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, or TJ/JK Wrangler........ they all have a 4 link style setup and have you ever driven one without a track bar on the factory suspension???? not a fun ride lol

but back to the topic at hand, my 10" LA kit is still an after market 4-link style, after hitting the trails in my good buddies 10" lifted XJ with a radius arm front this summer i'm changing mine over.

 

they are not talking about the OEM 4 link they are talking about a true double triangulated 4 link set up. Done right no need for a trac bar as the upper and lower links locate the axle and allow for full travel with out binding on the joints.

 

how do you get the measurements right on radius arms as far as angles for the links go?

 

Talking about triangulated 4link not the stock garbage.

 

lol i know what you guys meant, i was just messing with ya, triangulated 4-links are what i think are the best way to go.... much more rigidity and solid and smooth travel, but as for what i personally like from my closest friends experiences with their setups, i'm going to run the radius arms...

as for the measurements i couldn't explain it to you, i haven't set up a radius setup YET, but if your still needing help with it this summer i can diagram out how we setup mine

 

Yeah I'm just going with the basic LA setup from Staangs. I dont mind fabbing my own stuff but I have no desire to screw around with that stuff. Not when I know 100% Staangs works, is life time warrantied and built like a tank

Plus its really not that much money.

 

um..not to be a ***** but i got questioned alot on my design and after looking at the staangs LA add on kit i'm not to keen on a few things 1. it only bolt to the stock crossmember bolts and they are only weldnuts in sheet metal. 2.the crossmember is multiple pieces with bolts holding them together i would at least weld it all together.3 if an adjustable radius arm (basically what that is) holds together then i'm doing that because that's a hell of alot easier then my plan.. just saying

 

Staang's looks like a Clayton knock off IMO I'd rather run claytons kit my self (same joints though claytons has a better upper link on theirs)