Long arm vs. the drop kit
Hey Guys! First time posting here. Followed this thread because i just started my project and i am always trying to learn as much as I can. Today it's mostly about a forum and how it works. In any case I am going with a long arm set up for two reasons. First it's super cool and second: since it will be a DD I am looking for a better ride quality on the road. The mathematics of a longer radius translates into a more dispersed impact of road undulations for a quieter and smother ride. Otherwise bump to strap length is all ya got, right?
Hey Guys! First time posting here. Followed this thread because i just started my project and i am always trying to learn as much as I can. Today it's mostly about a forum and how it works. In any case I am going with a long arm set up for two reasons. First it's super cool and second: since it will be a DD I am looking for a better ride quality on the road. The mathematics of a longer radius translates into a more dispersed impact of road undulations for a quieter and smother ride. Otherwise bump to strap length is all ya got, right?
But you better know what the heck you are doing if you are buying them for a better ride! Because although they may have more potential. Probably 5:1 I see a worse ride our of long arms. Quite a few hardly drivable.
In my opinion its because you are changing so much you have to seriously make an effort to get that nice ride back. In which it still will not match stock.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
But you better know what the heck you are doing if you are buying them for a better ride! Because although they may have more potential. Probably 5:1 I see a worse ride our of long arms. Quite a few hardly drivable.
In my opinion its because you are changing so much you have to seriously make an effort to get that nice ride back. In which it still will not match stock.
In my opinion its because you are changing so much you have to seriously make an effort to get that nice ride back. In which it still will not match stock.
long arms are amazing. if you can get your hands on a decent used set or afford a new set, DO IT. they turned tooth rattling back jarring roads into a smooth ride and opened up a whole new world of wheeling for me. and my axle actually stays in the center of my wheel well where it belongs
utilize limit straps and bump stops people
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I spend a lot of time in the rocks. when backing off of something to choose a different line, I do not want to be hung up by some big bracket hanging off my frame. its personal preference. the drop bracket method may work great for some jeepers, I cant argue it I've never ran them
. but while they might do something to fix the lower control arm angle, they still don't do anything for the upper arms. I cant imagine them being comparable to long arms in any way
IMO stick with cheap simple short arms or just go big. people are rarely content with the "in between" option
. but while they might do something to fix the lower control arm angle, they still don't do anything for the upper arms. I cant imagine them being comparable to long arms in any wayIMO stick with cheap simple short arms or just go big. people are rarely content with the "in between" option
Last edited by Atmos; Sep 11, 2013 at 02:23 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Drop brackets relocate both upper and lower control arm mounts. Also I am running the rc drop brackets(all brands are comparable), and flex lower arms I have only scraped them a few times(and never been hung up on them). I run some pretty nice trails and I love creekbeds with a lot of rocks and staircases. I'm running 35" tires 5.5" lift locked front and rear. Honestly everything that the drop brackets hit, long arms would as well. The clearence at the stock mount is about the same from drop brackets to long arms. I've measured. The ride quality is a great improvement over regular short arms. And I can unseat a coil enough to remove it. So any more flex would require coilovers. So honestly I don't see any point at all in going to long arms
I spend a lot of time in the rocks. when backing off of something to choose a different line, I do not want to be hung up by some big bracket hanging off my frame. its personal preference. the drop bracket method may work great for some jeepers, I cant argue it I've never ran them
. but while they might do something to fix the lower control arm angle, they still don't do anything for the upper arms. I cant imagine them being comparable to long arms in any wayIMO stick with cheap simple short arms or just go big. people are rarely content with the "in between" option
Drop brackets relocate both upper and lower control arm mounts. Also I am running the rc drop brackets(all brands are comparable), and flex lower arms I have only scraped them a few times(and never been hung up on them). I run some pretty nice trails and I love creekbeds with a lot of rocks and staircases. I'm running 35" tires 5.5" lift locked front and rear. Honestly everything that the drop brackets hit, long arms would as well. The clearence at the stock mount is about the same from drop brackets to long arms. I've measured. The ride quality is a great improvement over regular short arms. And I can unseat a coil enough to remove it. So any more flex would require coilovers. So honestly I don't see any point at all in going to long arms
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I didn't say I don't see any point in long arms, I would love to have a true 3 or 4 link. The point I was making is that as ell as my CAD setup works. I just can't justify spending all the cash. Now if money wasn't an option, I would be running a triangulated 4 link. Or a true 3 link
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I've run stock, I've run CADs, I've run LAs.
If you're going to run something other than stock just go ahead and save up for the LAs. You'll be buying and swapping to long arms in the future anyway. (I just know.)
I really didn't notice a huge difference in ride quality on the road between the CADs and LAs but noticed a pretty significant difference on the trail.
Also, if you're going to buy LAs... don't get a radius arm set-up. You want a 3 or 4-link. If you're going to buy radius arms anyway then I'd suggest you just buy CADs.
If you're going to run something other than stock just go ahead and save up for the LAs. You'll be buying and swapping to long arms in the future anyway. (I just know.)
I really didn't notice a huge difference in ride quality on the road between the CADs and LAs but noticed a pretty significant difference on the trail.
Also, if you're going to buy LAs... don't get a radius arm set-up. You want a 3 or 4-link. If you're going to buy radius arms anyway then I'd suggest you just buy CADs.
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey Guys! First time posting here. Followed this thread because i just started my project and i am always trying to learn as much as I can. Today it's mostly about a forum and how it works. In any case I am going with a long arm set up for two reasons. First it's super cool and second: since it will be a DD I am looking for a better ride quality on the road. The mathematics of a longer radius translates into a more dispersed impact of road undulations for a quieter and smother ride. Otherwise bump to strap length is all ya got, right?
I installed the CAD on my jeep and they made a big difference. With the stock control locations the arms were around a 30-40 degree angle. This means a portion of the force goes right up the arm and into the body while the rest goes to the spring. The CAD put the arms near parallel to the ground so nearly 100% of the force goes right into the springs and almost nothing up the arm. I noticed pretty substantial difference in ride comfort/quality with the CAD in.
I spend a lot of time in the rocks. when backing off of something to choose a different line, I do not want to be hung up by some big bracket hanging off my frame. its personal preference. the drop bracket method may work great for some jeepers, I cant argue it I've never ran them
. but while they might do something to fix the lower control arm angle, they still don't do anything for the upper arms. I cant imagine them being comparable to long arms in any way
IMO stick with cheap simple short arms or just go big. people are rarely content with the "in between" option
. but while they might do something to fix the lower control arm angle, they still don't do anything for the upper arms. I cant imagine them being comparable to long arms in any wayIMO stick with cheap simple short arms or just go big. people are rarely content with the "in between" option
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Wrong. They drop both upper and lower arms. They are comparable to LA's imo. I would rather run CAD brackets than a radius LA setup. I can understand from your pov though considering you've never ran them. For all the time i've spent on rocks, mine have never hung up, but i can see where they would under the right circumstance.

well you have me convinced that they probably work fine. but in my mind they'll always be in the same category as the hack n tap SYE and wheel spacers, etc. it's not the product itself, just the idea of it



