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Long arm vs. the drop kit

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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by BigBirdxj
Looks kinda like a steel johnny? Is it supposed to clamp in a sleeve with those socket screws?
It fits in the exact same location as the OEM drivers side UCA axle bushing.

The inner part is steel, the outer part is steel, the middle part is poly.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #47  
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Rock Krawler has a 4 link longarm too!
$999.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDe...e=RKXJTTLA-UPG

Last edited by SteveMongr; Sep 11, 2013 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #48  
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I like that a lot! Expensive?
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 03:15 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
RK uses a flex joint that replaced the OEM drivers side upper rubber bushing.
Ah I see! I still think I'd rather run heims all around. But what do I know

Still no list of detriments for the radius arms? Honestly I don't know them all. I feel like it's important to add
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #50  
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only things I can think of is the binding and the control. radius arms unloading etc. (which I have yet to notice)

found some links
http://www.naxja.org/forum/archive/i...p/t-64591.html
seriousoffroad says: http://ns2.naxja.org/forum/showpost....49&postcount=2

Last edited by Atmos; Sep 11, 2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
only things I can think of is the binding and the control. radius arms unloading etc. (which I have yet to notice)

found some links
http://www.naxja.org/forum/archive/i...p/t-64591.html
seriousoffroad says: http://ns2.naxja.org/forum/showpost....49&postcount=2
Unloading and maintaining proper alignment through articulation would be my main concern. It's not a good feeling when they unload on a steep hill.

No, the Jeep isn't going to flip over because you have radius arms.

I've seen hundreds of rigs in person with radius arms that work just fine but if I were to spend the money on a kit it wouldn't be a radius arm unless I got a killer deal on it.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 04:26 PM
  #52  
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fair enough
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2

It fits in the exact same location as the OEM drivers side UCA axle bushing.

The inner part is steel, the outer part is steel, the middle part is poly.
You can also use a RE3762, slight grinding of bushing and its easily rebuilt. $20 ea on amazon free shipping.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 04:47 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by rawk krawler
You can also use a RE3762, slight grinding of bushing and its easily rebuilt. $20 ea on amazon free shipping.
That's a totally differnt type of bushing though. Just a rubber bushing style that I assume accepts the 14mm RK bolt.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2

That's a totally differnt type of bushing though. Just a rubber bushing style that I assume accepts the 14mm RK bolt.
It's a steel sleeve with a ribbed center, rubber insert with two piece metal sleeve inserted, ride and flex well.

No idea what an RK bolt is? But it accepts the stock bolt.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by ohio95xj
Exactly. and since I can already flex enough that any more would require coilovers, all the flex math is irrelevent.
I wouldn't say it's irrelevant.

Originally Posted by No4x4Yet

A hack-n-tap and wheel spacers are a bandaid for a larger issue. While a CAD isnt the best method its much better than running CA with a huge angle. At $190 its much cheaper option then long arms.

Oh come one I love some good physics talk. And I mentioned the angle in the second part of my post. If you have two arms one long and one short, given the same lift height the angle will be less with a long arm. Also the longer arm puts more leverage at the spring so it can move better. There is more to it but those are the basics.
This sounds better. What you first put sounded wrong. That conversation can get rly deep rly fast and I'm limited to the app at the moment so lets not. Lol
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by bheath
I wouldn't say it's irrelevant.



This sounds better. What you first put sounded wrong. That conversation can get rly deep rly fast and I'm limited to the app at the moment so lets not. Lol
Gotcha. It is a indepth subject. I was just trying to cover the basics to give a general idea on theory. Practical applications will vary for different reasons.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:58 AM
  #58  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by rawk krawler
It's a steel sleeve with a ribbed center, rubber insert with two piece metal sleeve inserted, ride and flex well.

No idea what an RK bolt is? But it accepts the stock bolt.
You aren't following. The bushing you posted is a user friendly version of an OEM bushing. The RK (Rock Krawler) joint is a bolt together flex joint. It rotates within itself, just like an other flex joint, instead of distorting the rubber through articulation.

It also uses a 14mm bolt instead of the stock 10mm bolt.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #59  
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CAD on 31s stuffed and limited by fenders.




again CAD now 35s and able to stuff them fine. But now running into brake line limitations. New lines going on this week can update if anyone is intrested. CAD have more than enough flex. Keep in mind I can stuff and droop those 35's with only a 4.5 lift setup. But, I do have the fancy adjustable arms and bars and such from metalcloak. Billstein shocks forgot length. You get the idear.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 02:03 PM
  #60  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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3 year thread revival!

#flecksallthethings
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