Long arm vs. the drop kit
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
is rock krawler the only one that sells a bolt on 3 link?
Last edited by Atmos; Sep 11, 2013 at 11:01 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
why? because of the binding? sure a 3 or 4 link is better. but at what point do you say forget that I'm not bolting on a big buck$ kit, or I dont want to set up my axle for a 3 link because now I'm never going to sell it because the buyer doesnt want to deal with cutting off a mount and setting it up to accept the stock suspension again. idk for the money I spent I'm really happy with my T&T's
is rock krawler the only one that sells a bolt on 3 link?
is rock krawler the only one that sells a bolt on 3 link?
If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.
I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.
What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
I didn't say I don't see any point in long arms, I would love to have a true 3 or 4 link. The point I was making is that as ell as my CAD setup works. I just can't justify spending all the cash. Now if money wasn't an option, I would be running a triangulated 4 link. Or a true 3 link
no freakin way! I never did notice that but you're right. that's what you get for never actually reading the product description. I was just looking at the RC ones and I have dents in my frame where those brackets would go

well you have me convinced that they probably work fine. but in my mind they'll always be in the same category as the hack n tap SYE and wheel spacers, etc. it's not the product itself, just the idea of it
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Who wants to set it up for stock suspension again?
If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.
I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.
What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.
I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.
What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
I spent $600 and installed the arms and belly pan in a couple hours and went wheeling. 3 link is gonna be great as soon as I pull the trigger on a different set of axles. would you really be running a custom 3 link if you still had a D30?
Last edited by Atmos; Sep 11, 2013 at 11:54 AM.
I completely agree. not needed in the money vs. usefulness debate for most average wheelers
and here is where you are high as ****. I ran the hell out of my short arms and then upgraded to long arms. night and day difference. the stability on the freeway and cornering was SIGNIFICANTLY improved. I feel much safer now. body roll and poor drivability is directly related to white body shocks, crappy factory steering design, and or bad tires/alignment/caster
long arms are amazing. if you can get your hands on a decent used set or afford a new set, DO IT. they turned tooth rattling back jarring roads into a smooth ride and opened up a whole new world of wheeling for me. and my axle actually stays in the center of my wheel well where it belongs
utilize limit straps and bump stops people
and here is where you are high as ****. I ran the hell out of my short arms and then upgraded to long arms. night and day difference. the stability on the freeway and cornering was SIGNIFICANTLY improved. I feel much safer now. body roll and poor drivability is directly related to white body shocks, crappy factory steering design, and or bad tires/alignment/caster
long arms are amazing. if you can get your hands on a decent used set or afford a new set, DO IT. they turned tooth rattling back jarring roads into a smooth ride and opened up a whole new world of wheeling for me. and my axle actually stays in the center of my wheel well where it belongs
utilize limit straps and bump stops people
I know a lot of guys running long arms. And most all of their rigs are trail only. Probably why they handle like doo doo. And it may not be the long arms at all.
I realize you can have a better set up with long arms. Bit I believe the majority just throw them on and wheel?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Listening to all of this feedback has me curious as to why there is such a concern about the validity of each setup. Drop brackets work that's why people make them and use them as a lot of you testify. If we reduce this to math which is how all of this got done is that bigger is better. As stated if you are going LA you need more lift, I am going 4+ inches. Either set up will work just as well for me minus the "super cool" for DB. If you were to go more LA will improve the math dramatically. Imagine "your arms and legs" were half as long. And besides what's the cost difference, shox aside. DB/CA = $400 LA= $650 ???? Not significant for me.
Listening to all of this feedback has me curious as to why there is such a concern about the validity of each setup. Drop brackets work that's why people make them and use them as a lot of you testify. If we reduce this to math which is how all of this got done is that bigger is better. As stated if you are going LA you need more lift, I am going 4+ inches. Either set up will work just as well for me minus the "super cool" for DB. If you were to go more LA will improve the math dramatically. Imagine "your arms and legs" were half as long. And besides what's the cost difference, shox aside. DB/CA = $400 LA= $650 ???? Not significant for me.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,659
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From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Exactly. and since I can already flex enough that any more would require coilovers, all the flex math is irrelevent.
no freakin way! I never did notice that but you're right. that's what you get for never actually reading the product description. I was just looking at the RC ones and I have dents in my frame where those brackets would go 
well you have me convinced that they probably work fine. but in my mind they'll always be in the same category as the hack n tap SYE and wheel spacers, etc. it's not the product itself, just the idea of it

well you have me convinced that they probably work fine. but in my mind they'll always be in the same category as the hack n tap SYE and wheel spacers, etc. it's not the product itself, just the idea of it
Who wants to set it up for stock suspension again?
If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.
I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.
What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.
I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.
What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
Oh come one I love some good physics talk. And I mentioned the angle in the second part of my post. If you have two arms one long and one short, given the same lift height the angle will be less with a long arm. Also the longer arm puts more leverage at the spring so it can move better. There is more to it but those are the basics.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I'm thinking resale value. I've tried selling a D30 set up for 3 link. it wasn't possible I had to gut it and give the housing away for free. the clayton 3 link offers the diff truss and changes the arm bracket to a johnny. setting up your own custom 3 link would require cutting off a UCA as well as hopefully rasing the lowers. I want this axle to bolt into a TJ or another xj for a quick and easy sale. you never mentioned what was wrong with the radius arms?
I spent $600 and installed the arms and belly pan in a couple hours and went wheeling. 3 link is gonna be great as soon as I pull the trigger on a different set of axles. would you really be running a custom 3 link if you still had a D30?
I spent $600 and installed the arms and belly pan in a couple hours and went wheeling. 3 link is gonna be great as soon as I pull the trigger on a different set of axles. would you really be running a custom 3 link if you still had a D30?
You don't HAVE to cut that UCA axle mount off. It'd be ideal but not 100% necessary. What's resale on a stock Dana 30 now? 150 bucks? Tops? You can pick them up all day long at the PaP for $79.00.
Yes, I ran my 3-link on my Dana 30 for quite a while before I built the D44.
Sold the built 30 for 900 bucks with only 1 UCA mount.
Run the upper link on the drivers side. You can weld a new passenger side mount on for a couple bucks.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There's a long list of poor characteristics of a radius arm set-up. I shouldn't have to list them all.
You don't HAVE to cut that UCA axle mount off. It'd be ideal but not 100% necessary. What's resale on a stock Dana 30 now? 150 bucks? Tops? You can pick them up all day long at the PaP for $79.00.
Yes, I ran my 3-link on my Dana 30 for quite a while before I built the D44.
Sold the built 30 for 900 bucks with only 1 UCA mount.
Run the upper link on the drivers side. You can weld a new passenger side mount on for a couple bucks.
You don't HAVE to cut that UCA axle mount off. It'd be ideal but not 100% necessary. What's resale on a stock Dana 30 now? 150 bucks? Tops? You can pick them up all day long at the PaP for $79.00.
Yes, I ran my 3-link on my Dana 30 for quite a while before I built the D44.
Sold the built 30 for 900 bucks with only 1 UCA mount.
Run the upper link on the drivers side. You can weld a new passenger side mount on for a couple bucks.
I will never argue that a 3 link isnt superior. but theres nothing wrong with choosing the tried and true radius setup either. if I could get my hands on an RK 3 link I'd run that too. but brand new is dang pricey
and just for the sake of the thread. how about we list some of those problems that radius arms have yeah?
Exactly Bheath! It is about flexibility and along with all of that math you get comfort and handling also. In your example with the chip it is very similar, if you chip then you need head, manifold and exhaust or your improvement is only so much. Sure Ohio, you can flex out your coils, an d that is because of all the math: see 8" lift (math) 14" flex (math), etc. if math was irrelevant then we wouldn't be adding longer springs. And Lowrange, long list? Radius arms are the wave of the future every solid log suspension has been replace with them as a matter of progress because it is better. Ford F25/350 fronts, A arm and strut, different configuration of the same principle. so on and so on.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0


