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Long arm vs. the drop kit

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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Also, if you're going to buy LAs... don't get a radius arm set-up. You want a 3 or 4-link. If you're going to buy radius arms anyway then I'd suggest you just buy CADs.
why? because of the binding? sure a 3 or 4 link is better. but at what point do you say forget that I'm not bolting on a big buck$ kit, or I dont want to set up my axle for a 3 link because now I'm never going to sell it because the buyer doesnt want to deal with cutting off a mount and setting it up to accept the stock suspension again. idk for the money I spent I'm really happy with my T&T's

is rock krawler the only one that sells a bolt on 3 link?

Last edited by Atmos; Sep 11, 2013 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
why? because of the binding? sure a 3 or 4 link is better. but at what point do you say forget that I'm not bolting on a big buck$ kit, or I dont want to set up my axle for a 3 link because now I'm never going to sell it because the buyer doesnt want to deal with cutting off a mount and setting it up to accept the stock suspension again. idk for the money I spent I'm really happy with my T&T's

is rock krawler the only one that sells a bolt on 3 link?
Who wants to set it up for stock suspension again?

If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.

I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.

What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:22 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ohio95xj

I didn't say I don't see any point in long arms, I would love to have a true 3 or 4 link. The point I was making is that as ell as my CAD setup works. I just can't justify spending all the cash. Now if money wasn't an option, I would be running a triangulated 4 link. Or a true 3 link
I can agree with this. It just came across as you saying you see no point in LA's. if i were to ever get a LA set up it would have to be a true 3-link.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Actually he was correct. Long arms need over 3" lift. Some require 5.5" such as Full Traction.
I know this, i was being sarcastic. Guess you didn't catch on...

Originally Posted by No4x4Yet

Yeah with all that hardcore offroading you do, you need every inche of clearance you can get.

I've heard just the opposite Bheath. The theory and physics dont lie, a longer arm transmits less force into the body and more into the springs.
No. To many other factors to state that as a fact. The angle of a CA has more to do with that than the length of the arm. Lets not get into this.

Originally Posted by Atmos

no freakin way! I never did notice that but you're right. that's what you get for never actually reading the product description. I was just looking at the RC ones and I have dents in my frame where those brackets would go

well you have me convinced that they probably work fine. but in my mind they'll always be in the same category as the hack n tap SYE and wheel spacers, etc. it's not the product itself, just the idea of it
I can agree. But they work fine for me. One day i will go to LA's when this is a trail rig only but till then, my brackets work well. Ya learn somethin new everyday! Lol
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Who wants to set it up for stock suspension again?

If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.

I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.

What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
I'm thinking resale value. I've tried selling a D30 set up for 3 link. it wasn't possible I had to gut it and give the housing away for free. the clayton 3 link offers the diff truss and changes the arm bracket to a johnny. setting up your own custom 3 link would require cutting off a UCA as well as hopefully rasing the lowers. I want this axle to bolt into a TJ or another xj for a quick and easy sale. you never mentioned what was wrong with the radius arms?

I spent $600 and installed the arms and belly pan in a couple hours and went wheeling. 3 link is gonna be great as soon as I pull the trigger on a different set of axles. would you really be running a custom 3 link if you still had a D30?

Last edited by Atmos; Sep 11, 2013 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
I completely agree. not needed in the money vs. usefulness debate for most average wheelers



and here is where you are high as ****. I ran the hell out of my short arms and then upgraded to long arms. night and day difference. the stability on the freeway and cornering was SIGNIFICANTLY improved. I feel much safer now. body roll and poor drivability is directly related to white body shocks, crappy factory steering design, and or bad tires/alignment/caster

long arms are amazing. if you can get your hands on a decent used set or afford a new set, DO IT. they turned tooth rattling back jarring roads into a smooth ride and opened up a whole new world of wheeling for me. and my axle actually stays in the center of my wheel well where it belongs

utilize limit straps and bump stops people

I know a lot of guys running long arms. And most all of their rigs are trail only. Probably why they handle like doo doo. And it may not be the long arms at all.

I realize you can have a better set up with long arms. Bit I believe the majority just throw them on and wheel?
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 12:41 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by holycaveman
I realize you can have a better set up with long arms. Bit I believe the majority just throw them on and wheel?
I installed limit straps with mine and headed off to the trail yeah. nothing else needed changing
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 12:48 PM
  #37  
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Listening to all of this feedback has me curious as to why there is such a concern about the validity of each setup. Drop brackets work that's why people make them and use them as a lot of you testify. If we reduce this to math which is how all of this got done is that bigger is better. As stated if you are going LA you need more lift, I am going 4+ inches. Either set up will work just as well for me minus the "super cool" for DB. If you were to go more LA will improve the math dramatically. Imagine "your arms and legs" were half as long. And besides what's the cost difference, shox aside. DB/CA = $400 LA= $650 ???? Not significant for me.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BigBirdxj
Listening to all of this feedback has me curious as to why there is such a concern about the validity of each setup. Drop brackets work that's why people make them and use them as a lot of you testify. If we reduce this to math which is how all of this got done is that bigger is better. As stated if you are going LA you need more lift, I am going 4+ inches. Either set up will work just as well for me minus the "super cool" for DB. If you were to go more LA will improve the math dramatically. Imagine "your arms and legs" were half as long. And besides what's the cost difference, shox aside. DB/CA = $400 LA= $650 ???? Not significant for me.
Just because people make/sell them doesn't mean anything. They make/sell a 'chip' for an xj, they don't do crap but yet people by them. All this math based on flex right? Not handling or ride comfort?
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bheath

Just because people make/sell them doesn't mean anything. They make/sell a 'chip' for an xj, they don't do crap but yet people by them. All this math based on flex right? Not handling or ride comfort?
Exactly. and since I can already flex enough that any more would require coilovers, all the flex math is irrelevent.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
no freakin way! I never did notice that but you're right. that's what you get for never actually reading the product description. I was just looking at the RC ones and I have dents in my frame where those brackets would go

well you have me convinced that they probably work fine. but in my mind they'll always be in the same category as the hack n tap SYE and wheel spacers, etc. it's not the product itself, just the idea of it
A hack-n-tap and wheel spacers are a bandaid for a larger issue. While a CAD isnt the best method its much better than running CA with a huge angle. At $190 its much cheaper option then long arms.

Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Who wants to set it up for stock suspension again?

If i'm spending big bucks either way I'm going to get the set-up that works the best.

I have no issue with commitment. I've had the same trail rig for the last 9 years.

What do you mean modify your axle? I can't think of a kit that requires modifying the axle. I assume you're talking about cutting off the OEM LCA mount? Drill out the spot welds. Weld it back on if you want to swap back to OEM.
As I said stock geometry is better then what you get with 4.5" of lift and the CAD is around a third the price of long arms. And dont you need to beef up the factory UCA mount for a 3 link?

Originally Posted by bheath
No. To many other factors to state that as a fact. The angle of a CA has more to do with that than the length of the arm. Lets not get into this.
Oh come one I love some good physics talk. And I mentioned the angle in the second part of my post. If you have two arms one long and one short, given the same lift height the angle will be less with a long arm. Also the longer arm puts more leverage at the spring so it can move better. There is more to it but those are the basics.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
I'm thinking resale value. I've tried selling a D30 set up for 3 link. it wasn't possible I had to gut it and give the housing away for free. the clayton 3 link offers the diff truss and changes the arm bracket to a johnny. setting up your own custom 3 link would require cutting off a UCA as well as hopefully rasing the lowers. I want this axle to bolt into a TJ or another xj for a quick and easy sale. you never mentioned what was wrong with the radius arms?

I spent $600 and installed the arms and belly pan in a couple hours and went wheeling. 3 link is gonna be great as soon as I pull the trigger on a different set of axles. would you really be running a custom 3 link if you still had a D30?
There's a long list of poor characteristics of a radius arm set-up. I shouldn't have to list them all.

You don't HAVE to cut that UCA axle mount off. It'd be ideal but not 100% necessary. What's resale on a stock Dana 30 now? 150 bucks? Tops? You can pick them up all day long at the PaP for $79.00.

Yes, I ran my 3-link on my Dana 30 for quite a while before I built the D44.

Sold the built 30 for 900 bucks with only 1 UCA mount.

Run the upper link on the drivers side. You can weld a new passenger side mount on for a couple bucks.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
There's a long list of poor characteristics of a radius arm set-up. I shouldn't have to list them all.

You don't HAVE to cut that UCA axle mount off. It'd be ideal but not 100% necessary. What's resale on a stock Dana 30 now? 150 bucks? Tops? You can pick them up all day long at the PaP for $79.00.

Yes, I ran my 3-link on my Dana 30 for quite a while before I built the D44.

Sold the built 30 for 900 bucks with only 1 UCA mount.

Run the upper link on the drivers side. You can weld a new passenger side mount on for a couple bucks.
I was talking about the resale of my 30 which is loaded with goodies like I'm sure yours was. and to run joints on both ends of the links, yeah it's getting cut off on one side or the other. does your RK kit still run a bracket on the upper? for me, I'd end up with a ruffstuff kit. and that requires more cutting and welding than I'm willing to deal with on a D30. and thats the line I'm not willing to cross with this build anymore I suppose

I will never argue that a 3 link isnt superior. but theres nothing wrong with choosing the tried and true radius setup either. if I could get my hands on an RK 3 link I'd run that too. but brand new is dang pricey

and just for the sake of the thread. how about we list some of those problems that radius arms have yeah?
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:30 PM
  #43  
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Exactly Bheath! It is about flexibility and along with all of that math you get comfort and handling also. In your example with the chip it is very similar, if you chip then you need head, manifold and exhaust or your improvement is only so much. Sure Ohio, you can flex out your coils, an d that is because of all the math: see 8" lift (math) 14" flex (math), etc. if math was irrelevant then we wouldn't be adding longer springs. And Lowrange, long list? Radius arms are the wave of the future every solid log suspension has been replace with them as a matter of progress because it is better. Ford F25/350 fronts, A arm and strut, different configuration of the same principle. so on and so on.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
Does your RK kit still run a bracket on the upper?
RK uses a flex joint that replaced the OEM drivers side upper rubber bushing.

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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #45  
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Looks kinda like a steel johnny? Is it supposed to clamp in a sleeve with those socket screws?
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