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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 03:58 AM
  #16  
I Leak Oil's Avatar
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Dont forget to check out iron rock offroad.

Long arm or short arm-forumrunner_20120709_035614.jpg



Long arm or short arm-forumrunner_20120709_035651.jpg

Its my dd. Rides and handles really well onroad, and drops jaws offroad. Same price range also. Just dont count them out, they are great people too
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #17  
MuscleHead's Avatar
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From: Jackson,TN
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Long arm it and be done with it. The Rough Country kit ive punished and it keeps asking for more. Has everything you need except a sye and dshaft. You will read some past hate on their flex joints but they have cured that problem.

A guy that wheels with us also has a Iron Rock LA and it does really well to. Im just not all that cool with their cam adjuster no matter how many people says it hasnt failed them

Everyone here seems to want to hate on any kit that costs less than 2k. Rough Country, Rustys( even though i hate the man), and Iron Rock are going to be your budget long arm setups that come complete with everything needed for the suspension.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #18  
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From: Jim Thorpe PA
Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Atmos
I'm telling you right now that piecing together a custom suspension that fits your wheeling needs is the best way. and usually cheaper than buying a kit

Im in way less than a rubicon express long arm kit. I purchased some of it used of course.
RE Long arms
Clayton Cross member
LII Slider boxes
Rugged ridge SYE (150 new!)
Bilstein 5150's
6.5in BDS Coils
6.5in Rustys leafs
Iro double sheer track bar
About $1600 in parts at this point.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #19  
99 Purple XJ's Avatar
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From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Go long arm but i run rc it is a good kit but i wouldnt buy it again it binds alot and flex joints suck look into a true front 3 link
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #20  
I Leak Oil's Avatar
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Iro.......threelink......check it out....
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #21  
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I have no complaints with my IRO lift rides great on the hiway and flexes great on the trails, and a good price

Long arm or short arm-forumrunner_20120709_204705.jpg
Attached Thumbnails Long arm or short arm-forumrunner_20120709_204755.jpg  
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 08:58 PM
  #22  
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From: Massachusetts, southeast
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, brown dog mounts, spectre cowl intake, 10 series flowmaster
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i agree the IRO long arms are awsome. ive had my 8 in. kit for about three months now and it rides better than my 4 1/2 in. rough country lift did.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 09:05 PM
  #23  
BNJeepsta's Avatar
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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The IRO kit is amazing, but is not a 3 link. My buddy runs it and I honestly can't believe how much abuse it will take. I've seen him go through stuff without lifting a tire that I can barely get through with short arms. X2 on all of IRO stuff.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #24  
I Leak Oil's Avatar
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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If its not a three link what is it? Iro says three link, along with a ton of people. And a few people say its not. Not tryin to be an *** im just wondering.

Im always amazed by mine. Just upgrade shocks. the cheapos they give you are rough country, and they blow out way too fast. I had all four blown within two Weeks of wheeling and dd use. Also check out their steering set up. Its different, and people who dont have it will talk it down. Ive bashed it into rocks, just about everything and it still is as good as when I first got it. Here is a pic of the steering. Well a pic of the pass. Side. What everybody thinks is goofy

Long arm or short arm-forumrunner_20120710_141834.jpg

Last edited by I Leak Oil; Jul 10, 2012 at 02:21 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #25  
NorCalJeep's Avatar
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Year: 1987 Comanche,1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
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Thanks for sharing IRO; almost the same price as RC, but looks like might handle better. Might be my next kit
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #26  
I Leak Oil's Avatar
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NorCalJeep
Thanks for sharing IRO; almost the same price as RC, but looks like might handle better. Might be my next kit
Definitely dont overlook them. If u do order from them, let them know Denis Hebert sent u from cf. If u want that is lol
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #27  
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From: Jim Thorpe PA
Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by I Leak Oil
If its not a three link what is it? Iro says three link, along with a ton of people. And a few people say its not. Not tryin to be an *** im just wondering.

Im always amazed by mine. Just upgrade shocks. the cheapos they give you are rough country, and they blow out way too fast. I had all four blown within two Weeks of wheeling and dd use. Also check out their steering set up. Its different, and people who dont have it will talk it down. Ive bashed it into rocks, just about everything and it still is as good as when I first got it. Here is a pic of the steering. Well a pic of the pass. Side. What everybody thinks is goofy

Attachment 129613
Its a y-link with radius arms, it is not a true three link, Clayton offers a true three link.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #28  
I Leak Oil's Avatar
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Empty_Pockets

Its a y-link with radius arms, it is not a true three link, Clayton offers a true three link.
Thank you
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 02:56 PM
  #29  
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Empty_Pockets

Its a y-link with radius arms, it is not a true three link, Clayton offers a true three link.
Exactly. It's no different than any other radius arm except for the pass. Side upper link is gone. Rock Krawler also makes a true 3 link.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #30  
I Leak Oil's Avatar
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Straight from iron rock

Hi Denis,

Yeah we can hook you up with some new decals!*

*

Our suspension attaches to the axle at three points, but using only 2 arms.* A typical 3 link will have two lower arms and 1 upper arm, all independent of one another.* Most radius arms have 4 axle attachments using 2 arms set up as a double y-link.* Our system would be classified as a radius arm setup being that we use the y-link.* The advantage of a single y-link system over a double y-link is that it eliminates a lot of the natural binding that occurs through the suspension cycle.* Please let me know if you have any other questions! I'll be happy to help.

*

Thank You,

Josh Ruppert

Iron Rock Off Road

www.ironrockoffroad.com


Just figured id share
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