The passenger side upper moount is not cast, it as well as the axle tube are mild steel, heating with the torch only took the temper out of that mount, making it weaker.

Radius arm setups bind, that pressure has to eventually be released somewhere.

 

I know, but radius arm fans won't admit to it! Just stirring the debate soup...

 

Zone Dana 30 UCA Support

 

I doubt control arm mounts are heat treated...

 

I'm pretty sure it's just an assumption with no real proof.. I have yet to see or read any ill affects from not running that arm.

 

who said the iron rock setup was safe? stock has 2 upper control arm bolts. what we are talking about here are setups with one uca bolt of stock size. that size bolt ive had and seen snap in upper control arms and trackbars countless times.

 

Stock has two for redundancy. Just like many things, it CAN be driven on one but I personally wouldn't.

if I was running radius arms it would be a properly designed kit like Staangs fab, Clayton, and a couple others.

 

depends on what axle he has whether the passenger side upper mount is steel or cast.
if it has the CAD disconnect motor, that mount is cast. (making it stronger than it's cousin).
if it has the solid tube/axle, that mount is steel, and flimsy as a wet noodle.
you can reinforce it with steel plate on the open side, which will make it much stronger.
or you can replace it with an aftermarket solid upper weld-on mount. i believe TMR customs has these, or can quickly make one up.

i wouldn't remove my passenger upper link just because i can, i would only remove it for emergency purposes, ie, get me home off the trail if the mount was bent up. or at least to get it to the road so CAA can pick up my broken jeep and take it home.

 

So people that have wheeled hard, jumped, driven thousands upon thousands of miles with one upper arm on setups like Clayton or IRO have just been lucky? Hmmm. I guess I have this name for a reason. Thanks for informing me . Better to be lucky then good I guess..

 

If a kit is DESIGNED to have that stress on one bar its fine.. RC isn't designed that way.

Notice the size of the damn drivers side arm on those kits Jeff? lol. I wouldn't run RC or stock with one missing arm. I would however run one of those kits, but if im spending the money anyway i tend to go with the higher quality stuff like SF. but thats another debate.

 

i for one have broken several 10mm bolts in my front suspension.

once was both upper control arms. bent my shocks, ruined my driveshaft,bent my steering. could have been worse too. im not willing to save a few bucks on something questionable if it means a greater risk of failure down the road.

most times they were broken trackbar bolts. and most were offroad. but if one let go at speed it could be a pretty catastrophic outcome.

If someone is looking for suspension products that will be wheeled i never reccomend something weaker than or just as strong as stock. sure the actual arms are strong, but a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. With that said I run all 9/16" and 5/8" bolts in my front end.