I will say, even a buggy on the mild end makes a top end XJ look farkin' cheap budget wise. I could have built several "built to the hilt" XJ's with all the goodies by now...

It's depressing...until you get reminded why you did when you take it out

 

lol so true. And to add to your previous post, I run chromo's in my D30 and my rear D44. No issues with either. Sure, you'll wear the tiny front ujoints out faster being locked but hey, that's what they're there for right?

 

I'm learning the depressing part right now

 

I went front first, but will eventually go rear too.

 

I would do a selectable locker (ARB, E-locker) in the front, and an auto locker (Detroit, Lock Right, No-slip, Spartan, or Aussie) in the rear. The Detroit will be stronger due to it being a full case locker vs a drop in, however a drop in locker should do fine in a 8.25 with 33s.

 

I guess asking this kind of question is like asking what brand tire is the best. I think I am going to just have to decide if the money is worth it or not. Because I am re-gearing and I am going to do one of the axles, the only additional cost is really the extra locker anyway. The compressor is already going in and the gear set up is already part of re-gearing.

Ultimately, I am ok with overbuilding something knowing that in the future the capability is there and if I decide to use the Jeep differently I don't have to go back and add anything. I guess that is an advantage of the selectables.

Thanks for all the input. I would still like any more feedback if you have it.

 

I would tend to agree. Terrain is always going to be the major factor in articulation bias, but generally with XJs the front end is going to keep both tires on the ground more than the leaf-sprung rear, which can still pull a tire in the air even on uphill climbs. Sure, it may be locked, but it's still only pushing with one tire as opposed to pulling with two.

The trade-off is that the 8.25 in stock form will hold up to a locker and bigger tires better than the D30 (which would benefit from a few strength-adding upgrades requiring a bit more investment).

 

what about truetracs front and rear. i know they arent lockers but they seem to engage well and for 2 youll spend the price of almost one non lunchbox locker.

+ you wont have to worry about manual/auto diff road manners

 

Truetracks are a great idea they are not a full locker but they are gear driven so they have no clutches to wear out. If you get into a situation where only one wheel is spinning you can press the brake an it will help transfer torque to the other wheel. They are also a good idea in the front because they normally don't cause steering issues like a locker does. However they are more expensive than a drop in locker and it replaces the carrier so you either have to get the tools to set it up right or pay a proffesional.

 

Any of you know of anyone using a Volvo Dana 30?

I've read that people used to use the Volvo rear end locker on their from Dana 30 for a cheap junkyard upgrade, SO - I started looking around and fore a later model Volvo with what looks like a Dana 30 axle, but has these wire plugged into the cover, -- Must be an electric-controlled locker / semi-locker?

I would like an electric locker up front -!
I live Near Seattle - rains all the time, so I used the Full-Time 4x4 most days, and I think it would be nice to switch on separately the front Lock, Only when needed.