Lockers, front and rear or just one
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
Wow! Thanks for all of the replies.
To answer a few of the questions I am running the C8.25 (s9 spline) and D30 (HP reverse I think). The C8.25 is fully open, no LSD. As far as use, I really look for it to be an exploration capable Jeep that will also serve as my DD.
Not that I am loaded with money or anything, but I prefer to do things right the first time, or at least good enough to take care of it for a while. So having the capability there is probably more important than saving a few bucks, even if I will rarely use it or not.
I am really just wondering if having both axles locked is something that is only useful if you are trying to do serious rock climbing or not. And if both really aren't necessary, and only one is enough, which one?
I like the argument that the front is better because then you can pull the back over the rocks. But I guess that is assuming that you can get the front over first.
Either way, I think it is a good discussion. Thanks for the input.
To answer a few of the questions I am running the C8.25 (s9 spline) and D30 (HP reverse I think). The C8.25 is fully open, no LSD. As far as use, I really look for it to be an exploration capable Jeep that will also serve as my DD.
Not that I am loaded with money or anything, but I prefer to do things right the first time, or at least good enough to take care of it for a while. So having the capability there is probably more important than saving a few bucks, even if I will rarely use it or not.
I am really just wondering if having both axles locked is something that is only useful if you are trying to do serious rock climbing or not. And if both really aren't necessary, and only one is enough, which one?
I like the argument that the front is better because then you can pull the back over the rocks. But I guess that is assuming that you can get the front over first.
Either way, I think it is a good discussion. Thanks for the input.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm forced to disagree with that after 40 yrs. of using them the rear will get more places than you ever could have went in 4wd before the install. Most recently in the XJ before and after running the same off road trails on private land of my cousin's 3,000 ac. a short distance from me. Everything from water crossings to very steep hills and a few dozer logging pull trails to cow paths.
I had a rule in CO. when going to recover a 4wd that had got stuck a long way off of any king of roadway. That was when going in using 4wd wreckers use only 2wd with the locked rear when you could go no further time to turn around then use 4wd to get home. Customers were made aware of this before we left the shop they would pay for the basic tow and mileage even if unable to retrieve the 4x4. 95% of these were ones where they had buddies come to help and for the most part made matters worse or caused them to slide deeper into a canyon.
I had a rule in CO. when going to recover a 4wd that had got stuck a long way off of any king of roadway. That was when going in using 4wd wreckers use only 2wd with the locked rear when you could go no further time to turn around then use 4wd to get home. Customers were made aware of this before we left the shop they would pay for the basic tow and mileage even if unable to retrieve the 4x4. 95% of these were ones where they had buddies come to help and for the most part made matters worse or caused them to slide deeper into a canyon.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
My rear locker makes my Jeep crawls with ease on all the blues and the handful of blacks I was on in Rausch and the local trails here. Locked both is best but I love being locked rear
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 5
From: Ocean County, NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
We all have our own experiences and I'm not saying anyone is wrong here. Just want to start it off with that lol.
From my Rausch experiences, I've made it through some pretty gnarly rock gardens, ask my crushed rockers lol. I feel that you will always benefit from being pulled over obstacles rather than pushed. The more front traction you have the better. I've seen guys on 38" tires fail to make it through certain trails because they were only rear locked where I would use my front locker and keep the rear unlocked with better success. But again, this was my experience. The ultimate setup would be to have both lockers though.
I look at it this way, when you're wheelin' rocks, you should always be in 4wd. Playing the ol "let's see how far 2wd takes me" may work for recovery wreckers to judge how far you should go before calling it quits but it's foolish for your normal wheeler and will only increase your chances of a tire puncture.
I think we can all agree that no modification can beat a driver mod. Learn how to drive your rig. Understand what causes components to break and when you're putting too much stress on certain parts. Pick good lines. Know your limits. I can't tell you how many times I've been told that my little dana 30 wouldn't hold up to 35's and rock crawling. "you need to go 44's or wontons" blah blah blah. No, no you don't. Driver Mod. I know how far I can push my rig.
From my Rausch experiences, I've made it through some pretty gnarly rock gardens, ask my crushed rockers lol. I feel that you will always benefit from being pulled over obstacles rather than pushed. The more front traction you have the better. I've seen guys on 38" tires fail to make it through certain trails because they were only rear locked where I would use my front locker and keep the rear unlocked with better success. But again, this was my experience. The ultimate setup would be to have both lockers though.
I look at it this way, when you're wheelin' rocks, you should always be in 4wd. Playing the ol "let's see how far 2wd takes me" may work for recovery wreckers to judge how far you should go before calling it quits but it's foolish for your normal wheeler and will only increase your chances of a tire puncture.
I think we can all agree that no modification can beat a driver mod. Learn how to drive your rig. Understand what causes components to break and when you're putting too much stress on certain parts. Pick good lines. Know your limits. I can't tell you how many times I've been told that my little dana 30 wouldn't hold up to 35's and rock crawling. "you need to go 44's or wontons" blah blah blah. No, no you don't. Driver Mod. I know how far I can push my rig.
Last edited by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ; Jan 16, 2017 at 12:25 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm forced to disagree with that after 40 yrs. of using them the rear will get more places than you ever could have went in 4wd before the install. Most recently in the XJ before and after running the same off road trails on private land of my cousin's 3,000 ac. a short distance from me. Everything from water crossings to very steep hills and a few dozer logging pull trails to cow paths.
the laws of physics have changed since then get with the times old man :P
lol. I don't disagree that when it comes to water, steep hills, and cow paths that a locker front or rear will do fine and it really doesn't matter which is your preference. Rear may even be better
specifically with rock crawling, I will always have to say hands down front locker is better if you can only afford one. I know this from watching the same rigs go down the same trails with different configurations over the years. front locker is king in the rocks
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 327
Likes: 6
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
As someone who has been down this road, and lived in CO.
Lock the front first.
When mine was still full bodied (before becoming a buggy), it was originally locking in the rear (9" with full Detroit).
While that helped, the biggest change came from the locked front. For most people, a locked front will help more than a locked rear.
Why?
Well, it comes down to basic statics. Most of your weight is over the front axle (well, unless you're on an extremely steep climb), and therefore is better to provide traction.
It's easier to pull yourself over something, than it is to try and push your front end over.
On my current Mild build...I'll be locking the front first (rear has an OEM LSD).
As well, with a little e-brake work, you can get the rear to act more like it's locked in some cases.
Lock the front first.
When mine was still full bodied (before becoming a buggy), it was originally locking in the rear (9" with full Detroit).
While that helped, the biggest change came from the locked front. For most people, a locked front will help more than a locked rear.
Why?
Well, it comes down to basic statics. Most of your weight is over the front axle (well, unless you're on an extremely steep climb), and therefore is better to provide traction.
It's easier to pull yourself over something, than it is to try and push your front end over.
On my current Mild build...I'll be locking the front first (rear has an OEM LSD).
As well, with a little e-brake work, you can get the rear to act more like it's locked in some cases.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 327
Likes: 6
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
Yep, 2001 XJ with ~100k on the clock 
Nope, definitely not tired of the buggy...just getting my feet wet in it. I'm building this one to make the easier trails fun again, and something to drive to the mountains, take camping, etc.
It's going to be my DD as well, as my current is an '89 Corolla
The irony is, this XJ is going to be far more built than my buggy was when it was still a full body...and it's only getting 4.5" of lift and 32's.
We'll have the full spectrum of XJ's at my house. I'll have the buggy and the mild build, the fiance has a '96 which is getting a small budget boost.

Nope, definitely not tired of the buggy...just getting my feet wet in it. I'm building this one to make the easier trails fun again, and something to drive to the mountains, take camping, etc.
It's going to be my DD as well, as my current is an '89 Corolla

The irony is, this XJ is going to be far more built than my buggy was when it was still a full body...and it's only getting 4.5" of lift and 32's.
We'll have the full spectrum of XJ's at my house. I'll have the buggy and the mild build, the fiance has a '96 which is getting a small budget boost.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Yep, 2001 XJ with ~100k on the clock
Nope, definitely not tired of the buggy...just getting my feet wet in it. I'm building this one to make the easier trails fun again, and something to drive to the mountains, take camping, etc. It's going to be my DD as well, as my current is an '89 Corolla
The irony is, this XJ is going to be far more built than my buggy was when it was still a full body...and it's only getting 4.5" of lift and 32's. We'll have the full spectrum of XJ's at my house. I'll have the buggy and the mild build, the fiance has a '96 which is getting a small budget boost.
Nope, definitely not tired of the buggy...just getting my feet wet in it. I'm building this one to make the easier trails fun again, and something to drive to the mountains, take camping, etc. It's going to be my DD as well, as my current is an '89 Corolla
The irony is, this XJ is going to be far more built than my buggy was when it was still a full body...and it's only getting 4.5" of lift and 32's. We'll have the full spectrum of XJ's at my house. I'll have the buggy and the mild build, the fiance has a '96 which is getting a small budget boost.If I could only afford 1 it would be in the rear. Once locked the front steering becomes much harder. When off road I prefer to just lock the rerar arb and wait until I need the front before I lock it. The steering is affected, much more resistance as tire size goes up. I like to get through the obstacle and unlock the front only... but that's just me. Everyone has their own personal preference....
also a constantly locked front puts excessive strain on front axle shafts, u joints and r & p, even more so when turning. you should respect the dana 30 & dont make it work to hard.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm trying so hard to keep my house from turning into the same. A nice mild Cherokee is awful tempting for the same reasons, it's fun and cheap comparatively speaking
objection! Subjective. Overruled
I imagine this has to be true simply because it makes sense, but after 2 or 3 seasons of wheeling and still no broken parts I don't see this as an issue and definitely would not use the word "excessive." This shouldn't be a deterrent for anyone who is getting a lunchbox or Detroit locker.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 327
Likes: 6
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
Newp, this XJ is staying clean and unmolested.
Nay will any sort of cutting instrument grace these fenders!
Ummm...a rear locker does the same on those shafts, and running anything larger than OEM size will as well.
I went through probably half a dozen plus D30 shafts in my time locker F&R on 35's. My XJ also got put through trails/areas that 95% of XJ people would never dare to.
Would I do it all again? Yep. I'd probably move up to chromoly shafts though...
Nay will any sort of cutting instrument grace these fenders!

I went through probably half a dozen plus D30 shafts in my time locker F&R on 35's. My XJ also got put through trails/areas that 95% of XJ people would never dare to.
Would I do it all again? Yep. I'd probably move up to chromoly shafts though...


