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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 08:49 AM
  #16  
peep's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
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Auto lockers worked fantastic for wheelin!
If you winter drive on road, I can not recommend auto lockers. (Unless you thrive on terror)
Just not right for me on snow/ice slick roads.
For me it's selectable lockers.
Lookin at front and rear OX next for the Peep.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:23 AM
  #17  
Fred/N0AZZ's Avatar
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I have driven DD for the last 40 yrs or more using auto lockers in the rear in both 2 and 4wd cars and trucks. From Mo. to Co. to MT then back again, I don't really see the problems people have with them in the rear, have used a spool on the street a few times on Hot Rods and that I would not suggest if you don't know how to drive with one, even then a handful.


To the OP you would not want an auto locker in the front with your 242.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 01:48 PM
  #18  
TRCM's Avatar
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From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
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Originally Posted by Battle
You're not incorrect in your thinking at all. Under load, they do create a short term spool, but how they react to throttle inputs varies by manufacturer and condition. I, like shoop, have auto lockers (Spartans) with a stick. The D30 needed preload adjustments to behave reasonable on full lock turns, and I've had to experiment with various gear oil viscosities in the 8.25 to get it to be less violent about unlocking. While it's okay now, I've gotten tired of their behavior and plan to remove both for Eaton e lockers. I wheel my rig pretty hard when it does hit trails, but I also have to drive long distances to get anywhere good.

If you can find someone with auto lockers, I would try and drive it. It's weird, you will grab people's attention in parking lots and you may experience some torque steer, but it's not impossible to manage. Plus, they do come with the benefit of allowing awesome drifting and peel outs.
When installing these things, it is very important that the clearance specs are adhered to. Otherwise, they may not lock or unlock properly. Some may take adjustments as your D30 did, and sometimes fluid changes can help. I had one of mine start acting up, and it turned out one of the stock thrust washers that were supposed to get re-used broke, and this gave about .030" too much clearance, so it wouldn't lock up right. Put in new parts, checked clearances, and good to go once again.

Most of the problems I have heard of and/or helped fix, have been from people installing them and not checking the clearances. Worn parts can give too much clearance, and then it won't work as it should, people get frustrated, and then bad mouth the part/brand, or spend money on something else.




Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
I have driven DD for the last 40 yrs or more using auto lockers in the rear in both 2 and 4wd cars and trucks. From Mo. to Co. to MT then back again, I don't really see the problems people have with them in the rear, have used a spool on the street a few times on Hot Rods and that I would not suggest if you don't know how to drive with one, even then a handful.


To the OP you would not want an auto locker in the front with your 242.
AGREED 100%.


The 'quirks' people always talk about...I've never experienced, and if you've been driving with them prior to snow/ice, you shouldn't have any issues. I've had far more 'wow' moments regarding locker operation on dry pavement than on snow or ice.

The biggest thing for people to remember, is if the front axle has no traction and the rear has traction....the vehicle is gonna go the way the rear axle is aligned....no matter what.

I've had the front wheels turned all the way one side or the other, and the truck stills goes straight ahead from the rear axle pushing, until the front tires get enough mud/ice in front of them to start acting like rudders. It's all about traction.
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 03:00 PM
  #19  
exFJGuy's Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by 4x4jeepmanthing
That is exactly the explanation I mean when saying they can be locked without air elec or lever. How do you like the response in their locking with the air?

I thought that's what you meant, but read it a couple times...the "cant" threw me I guess.


I am running an ARB Mini compressor, takes almost no time (literally seconds) to fill the system, and locking is pretty much instantaneous. Truth to be told though, I have only had them for a few months and only wheeled them a couple times. I still consider them "new" but am already really happy with them.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 10:15 PM
  #20  
cliffpenick's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L Stroked
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I used the zip locker for d30 and arb for 8.25 with 4.56 gears . Great decision, instant lock up and still great in the snow when unlocked. If you get the ox locker and use the air to activate it why not just go with air lockers. I Have a section on hose and splice in butt connectors if an air line ever blows. They work awesome and if you are regearing already might as well do it right the first time.
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 08:28 AM
  #21  
HYRYSC's Avatar
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From: Springfield, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by srb53150
detriot rear, e- locker front works great for me. e-locker is open or fully locker , no in between. true trac is lame for real wheelin', had them once sold them soon after.
X2. Love my Detroit rear, Elocker front combo! If you are used to wheeling with open diffs, you will swear that you are driving a freaking tank. Bad thing is that it gives you a bad case of Jeeportunity!


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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 10:05 AM
  #22  
jon-d's Avatar
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From: AV Kalifornia
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I just installed a Detroit in the rear and have not had any issues with it on the road. I cannot make a comparison without the locker because the previous owner had a lunchbox locker installed without my knowledge. I heard all the stories about driving with it but I cannot event tell its there.


for the D30, I would like to install a selectable but the ARB is expensive and I heard its not uncommon for the Eaton to fail on the trail, and the OX is a bit weak? hard to decide.
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 12:16 PM
  #23  
Fred/N0AZZ's Avatar
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jon-d
I just installed a Detroit in the rear and have not had any issues with it on the road. I cannot make a comparison without the locker because the previous owner had a lunchbox locker installed without my knowledge. I heard all the stories about driving with it but I cannot event tell its there.


for the D30, I would like to install a selectable but the ARB is expensive and I heard its not uncommon for the Eaton to fail on the trail, and the OX is a bit weak? hard to decide.

I would have no problem installing a Eaton e-locker or the OX my choice for the OX would be the manual option. I have saw more problems with air activated lockers on the trail than any of the others.
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 02:44 PM
  #24  
HYRYSC's Avatar
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From: Springfield, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jon-d
I just installed a Detroit in the rear and have not had any issues with it on the road. I cannot make a comparison without the locker because the previous owner had a lunchbox locker installed without my knowledge. I heard all the stories about driving with it but I cannot event tell its there.


for the D30, I would like to install a selectable but the ARB is expensive and I heard its not uncommon for the Eaton to fail on the trail, and the OX is a bit weak? hard to decide.
I did a ton of research before jumping into the Eaton ELocker. There are a few different varieties for different applications, but everything that I have read is that the ELocker for the Dana 30 was one of the strongest units available.
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